R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-13-2007, 05:56 PM   #27166
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
If i remember correctly, you can run any servo with the L4. The servo mounts are adjustable width. You need to center any servo you put in there but it will work with all of the servos.the holes that mount it to the chassis are slotted and a nut holds the screw in on each mount
on a L4 if you use a jr you can not center it, its off just a bit
but i ran it that way anyways,
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 07:39 PM   #27167
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

huh, I cant say i ever tried to fit one. Those are the most universal mounts i have seen for angled mounting. Is the Gen X made to fit that servo? Without drilling extra holes in the chassis i just cant see anything else being more adjustable than the AE. My question is, Instead of all the car companies losing sleep over trying to accomodate servos, Why cant the servo companies come to an agreement on output locations?
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 08:19 PM   #27168
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

The AE ones aren't adjustable...the ones for the CRC 3.2R were adjustable. Problem is they would not hold their setting well in a crash so most people would swap them out for normal mounts and drill holes as necessary. AE drills their servo mount holes for the 94145 servo. The Futaba servos have the same dimensions so they bolt up nicely.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 09:07 PM   #27169
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

The last L4 i bought had blue aluminum mounts with slotted holes and locknuts to hold them in place
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 09:08 PM   #27170
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I also had the same problem you speak of. It was tough to get them to hold in a crash
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 09:20 PM   #27171
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

these are the ones
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-ae-mounts.jpg  
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 09:38 PM   #27172
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Interesting...my friend's L4 didn't have those. Hope they hold their setting better the the CRC ones did. They were plastic and had much longer slots.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2007, 10:16 PM   #27173
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

the l4 mounts are the ones that jason posted. if you look at the mount to the chassis, it is actually a slot and not just a round hole. they are both adjustable so that you can mount any servo. the crc version look the same, but are just a tapped hole that mounts to the chassis. the crc ones are not adjustable.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 12:09 AM   #27174
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

The ones that come with the 3.2R are adjustable. It's these:



Even with the slots in the L4 servo mounts and chassis there are still servos that will not fit due to their being much too narrow. Typically these are not servos the typical experienced 1/12th driver would use but some newer drivers do thinking it will save them space and weight.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 04:04 AM   #27175
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

You can fix the servo-mount-moving problem. Lightly sand the base of the servo mounts (1000 grit (or worn 600 grit! ) wet and dry paper) until the shine goes, and do the same on the chassis. Now fit the servo mounts and tighten into position. By removing the very slippery surfaces of the mount and the chassis, the servo stays where you put it.

You can use the same method on motor mounts, and it stops the motor moving in a crash. HTH
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 06:37 AM   #27176
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 61
Default

something I have been doing to help prevent mounts from moving is using a thin smear of shoe goo on the mating faces as well as the screws.

scott
snowyelan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 07:24 AM   #27177
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
huh, I cant say i ever tried to fit one. Those are the most universal mounts i have seen for angled mounting. Is the Gen X made to fit that servo? Without drilling extra holes in the chassis i just cant see anything else being more adjustable than the AE. My question is, Instead of all the car companies losing sleep over trying to accomodate servos, Why cant the servo companies come to an agreement on output locations?
on the GEN-X you mount the servo one way and its for the jr servo
and if you run a fut you mount the servo the other way.
theres mounting holes for both.
on the L4 there is only mounting holes for a fut type servo.
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 07:26 AM   #27178
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I am thinking of making a mounting plate for the different popular servos. I just dont like the sliding mounts too much. They are really trying to accomodate the different servos but i dont like that you need to worry about centering the servo.fixed position is the most bullet proof way of mounting. It seems that you guys are real creative with your methods of fixing the slipping issues. The thing is, It is really the die hard 1/12th guys like all of us that are able to do this because we know the importance. We all get creative in order to make things work the way the need to. We(The manufacturers) really need to start making the cars a little easier to work with. It is tough getting guys from TC and nitro on the track with a 1/12th when there is too much tinkering to do with the car to make it work correctly. These people seem to get into 1/12 and quickly get out of it before really getting a real taste of how great the class really is.
Right now i have my own servo mounts that allow you to mount the servo flat or angled and also set the turnbuckles where you need them to be. My problem is, They are fixed position and narrow you to having to run a futaba servo or any servo with the same center location as a futaba. I think i can make it work for a wider range of servos. I will be looking further into this. There has to be a way to do this that is simple and yet effective. I do not want to go with sliding mounts. I will let you know what i come up with. We need to make it easier. If we can just make these cars easier to get right, We will see the class really take off.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 11:15 AM   #27179
Tech Regular
 
Mitch Sy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Xray T2'008
Posts: 316
Trader Rating: 8 (90%+)
Default

What is the best servo to use on a CRC Gen-X?
Futaba, Sanwa & KoPropo...which model?
Those brands only as I only have access to those
Thanks for your help!
__________________
Xray T2'008 EU - www.TeamXray.com
Hudy Pro Tools - www.Hudy.net

LRP : Orion : Trinity|Pulse : Sanwa (Airtronics) : Ko Propo : Spektrum
Mitch Sy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2007, 11:34 AM   #27180
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

The Futaba 9650 works fine but I am now running the KO this year as its transit time is faster. Either one you will be happy with. The only thing I don't like about the Futaba is that it uses a plastic vs metal spline (I cannot think of the word but the thing the servo saver goes on).
-Kane
Kane-o is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (0 members and 4 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:24 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0