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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-08-2007, 09:31 AM   #27106
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I upgraded my tfource to the new pro strut front end as soon as they became available and then a few months ago I switched over to a genX car. Running twice a week with 19 turn motors for months, I can honestly say that in all this running over an extended period of time iv'e yet to break the first part on either car with the pro strut front end. Also, since it's possible to adjust out the slop that develops thru normal wear, I've yet to find the need to replace any worn parts either. When you combine that with how sweet the handling is and how easy it is to make tuning changes........what else could a racer ask for?? I did start out with the grapite 3mm spacers and those do seem to eliminate the breakage that others were experiencing early on. But hey, if you run carpet and use small tires, then you'll need the 3mm spacer anyway just for ride height. CRC's new front end is in my opinion the most valuable upgrade that anybody has offered for 1/12th scale cars in years. These guys just know what they are doing an their whole business is geared around the 1/12th scale scene. It shows in both their product offerings and their race results.
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:11 AM   #27107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team CRC View Post
Just thought we would jump in with some quick race updates on the CRC Pro Strut Front end....

Is the front end availble as a kit?
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Old 10-08-2007, 11:46 AM   #27108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noline View Post
Hey's guys need some help can anyone please tell me how to gear these 10.5 Brushless motors. The track Im racing on is a carpet ozite 100x50 with a 88 spur and a rear 1.78" tire size what gear would you suggest? here are the motors listed below.

Orion 10.5
Novak 10.5
I'm driving the orion 10.5 with a roll out of 54mm and perhaps I can still go a little higher...
Perhaps someone can calculate it to inch
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Old 10-08-2007, 01:12 PM   #27109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
Is the front end availble as a kit?
from www.teamcrc.com
3240 - CRC Pro Strut Front End 1/12th
SKU: 3240

Complete Pro-Strut Front End
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:19 PM   #27110
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Hey guys i was at my first indoor meeting with my 12th scale this season and the car handled great for the first 4-5 minutes of the race then the rear end seemed to become undone when i turned into the corners. I am using purple front and grey rear tires and i tryed applying additive longer before the race but this didnt seem to help much. My base start for additive was apply for 15 minutes then wipe of and leave for 5 minutes then race. I then upped this during the day and ended up with apply for 30 minutes wipe and leave for 5 and it gave the same result. I was using jack the griper and applying full rear and half inside front on the additive. I was using an ftx fantom car with kit setup and a speed 12 bodyshell. I have a feeling it may be because the car has an frp chassis and has quite a lot of flew that it is overworking the tires to much, but perhaps you can see a flaw in my tire regime? Thanks
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:30 PM   #27111
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John_S,

I had exactly the same problem with Jack. It goes off around 6 mins. I changed to CS-Grip from Schumacher and the problem was solved!
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:30 PM   #27112
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this question is probably already answered somewhere else, but nowadays, which are the preferred servos for 1/12? I know there are 2 futabas (9602 and 9650) and one Ko (949?), are there others? jr, airtronics? which one is the preferred one around?

thanks a lot,
al
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:40 PM   #27113
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thanks trace raing. I had some cs on order but theres a postal strike in the uk so i had to borrow some jack from a freind. I will be usin cs at the next meeting
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:42 PM   #27114
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John_S - It might have more to do with the pruple fronts. They get grippy (sticky) the more heat they get into them causing the car to get loose. you could try a different tire sauce but I'd dump the purples and try dbl pinks/ pink.

E
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:42 PM   #27115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampal View Post
this question is probably already answered somewhere else, but nowadays, which are the preferred servos for 1/12? I know there are 2 futabas (9602 and 9650) and one Ko (949?), are there others? jr, airtronics? which one is the preferred one around?

thanks a lot,
al
A little list of servo for 1/12
KO 2123
KO 917
KO 949
Sanwa 141HR - Aitronics 94141Z
Sanwa 145HR - Aitronics 94145Z
Hitec 225 MG
HS 81 MG
Futaba 9602
Futaba 9650
JR JRPSZ3550

Some come from the AE RC12L4 manual
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:55 PM   #27116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF View Post
John_S - It might have more to do with the pruple fronts. They get grippy (sticky) the more heat they get into them causing the car to get loose. you could try a different tire sauce but I'd dump the purples and try dbl pinks/ pink.

E
Eric, this sounds OK on Paragon, but on Jack it isn't the same. The answer is to switch to CS High, and to use dbl pink/magenta when you feel all the grip go to the back of the car. Starting with dbl pink before the black line has been laid down gives waaaay too much steering! HTH
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:57 PM   #27117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
A little list of servo for 1/12
KO 2123
KO 917
KO 949
Sanwa 141HR - Aitronics 94141Z
Sanwa 145HR - Aitronics 94145Z
Hitec 225 MG
HS 81 MG
Futaba 9602
Futaba 9650
JR JRPSZ3550

Some come from the AE RC12L4 manual
thanks a lot!

one last question... does someone use srandard low profile servos like the s9550 or the pds2413ics?

thanks again,
cheers,
al
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Old 10-08-2007, 02:59 PM   #27118
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Pink and grey is kind of the combo of choice in scotland and because there is only 1 mayb 2 heats of twelth scale at this event the grip never really gets to be mega as the 12th scale are the only class alloud to use additive. This was the compound that one of the corraly team drivers in attendance was using and his car didnt have a lack of anything at any time ever
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:20 PM   #27119
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on my local track (and with paragon) the greys tend to feel great at the beginning of a run but they go abruptly loose about 6 minutes into the run. the looseness gets so bad that the car can get nearly undriveable. on our carpet (crc glued to concrete), switching from grey rears to pink rears fixes that late run looseness problem. The pinks work good here with either purple fronts or magentas depending on how agressive you want the steering.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:46 PM   #27120
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John_S-
The ticket may be to not use the grey rears. I personally don't run those anymore it always (at my track) seemed that if I got out of the groove it'd take almost a lap to get the tires cleaned up and have traction again. When I switched to dbl pinks at all 4 corners or dbl pink front and pink rears even the car remained consistent and if I got off line I didn't struggle for almost a lap.
E
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