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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-03-2007, 09:03 AM   #27091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas View Post
Speedmerchant Rev 5---

The new Speedmerchant design is great... The Rev 5 won stock in Vegas where corner speed makes all the difference. In modified we obviously had some issues with items such as electronics and power situations. My opinion of the car is it is really good and extremely durable. Trust me I put it to the test in Mod hitting a car at full speed down the straight a couple of times and trying to move the center section of the track with the car. lol... The car never went out tweak and didn't break.

Obviously the front end is durable and different making it very adjustable, but the rear end is also different. The rear end of the car gives you more than enough room to use any motor from brushed to brushless and accessibility to drop the motor in from the top of the car.

Congrats to Steve B for winning the 12th scale stock A-Main at the IIC of 07.
Can't wait to get a Rev 5.
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Old 10-03-2007, 03:13 PM   #27092
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anybody know if the jr3550 was rereleased yet?

thanks
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Old 10-03-2007, 03:22 PM   #27093
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Originally Posted by snowyelan View Post
anybody know if the jr3550 was rereleased yet?

thanks
I did a search on Horizon's site a month ago and it was listed in stock. Today all I get is Server cannot be found... Someone from our track ordered one and it did come in. I expect that they will be back for a while.
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Old 10-03-2007, 06:33 PM   #27094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowyelan View Post
anybody know if the jr3550 was rereleased yet?

thanks
yes
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Old 10-03-2007, 11:06 PM   #27095
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Default Basic Settings

Me and some buddies are doing some 1/12 racing this winter season after getting into the rc hobby because of rc drifting. We all have 12L3s or 12L4s, we'll be running on carpet. What's a good basic setup for these cars? Right now I'm running with a 100 spur, 34 pinion with a 27T monster motor. I got the car used and my setup station is for 1/10 scale chassis so I have no way of telling what the settings are except by eyeballing it. Rideheight - really low. Lower than I ever ran my 1/10. It looks to be only 1-2 mm off the front 3 mm in the rear.

My speedo is a Keyence Zero Extreme V which seems to do the job. I love the response and smoothness I get from accelerating and smooth braking. The servo is a hi-tec hs-225bb. Mods done to the chassis as far as I can see is a CRC motor mount in the rear, and it has the 0.75 tbar.

I'm not sure what other mod is needed to get this thing running right, but to me it seems to run fine. But then again, I've never raced nor tried any other 1/12 chassis. Reading the other thread, people seem to like CRC 3.2Rs better - runs well out of the box without any hop ups needed.

Any setup advice or things to watch out for with these chassis or with 1/12 racing in general? Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:25 AM   #27096
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OK, a few basics - applicable to almost all 1/12th cars

1) gear ratio you posted means squat without knowing tyre diameter - visit gearchart.com and aim for around 45mmpr with 6 cell stock (40 if it's a smaller track)

2) tyres - purple fronts and grey rears are the de facto standard - there are some exotic variations

3) ride height - min 3mm all round, 3.5 is better, but 4 is starting to get too high

4) change the kingpin springs from kit (20) to 18's

Learn to driver before you try to drive fast - 1/12th on carpet is not drifting!
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:03 AM   #27097
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Thanks for the tips. One thing I did learn from other threads was slow=fast so I think I've got that down. I went out and practiced the other day. I didn't do as bad as I thought I would do but certainly not as smooth and fast as you pros or even club racers. When I drift, I don't use a lot of throttle to begin with so learning to feather the throttle for drifting helped me a lot.

As for the kingpin springs, how would I know if they were changed by the previous owner? Do they come in different colors like shocks springs do in 1/10?

Other things I picked up from another thread is .5 degree toe in front, -1 degree camber. Is this true?

With these foam tires getting worn and trued ever so often, I guess gearing would have to be changed just as often.

Also, another question I have, how much difference in tire wear should there between the front and rear tires.

Ok, this will be my last question for this post. Someone is selling a used CRC Pro Strut end. Is it worth it? How much more superior is it compared to the stock AE one? At my level, would it really make that much difference?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 10-04-2007, 08:41 AM   #27098
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All the front springs are the same color. You'll need to hit them with a digital caliper to see the wire gauge, which is how they're measured. While you're measuring, check the uncompressed height as well. If they're off by .25 mm it may be wise to replace them as one of them is probably blown and the difference is more than you'll want to correct with shims on the kingpin. The thinner springs will go bad quicker than the thicker gauge springs will.

The toe in doesn't sound bad as a starting point. You can start with -1 degree camber and adjust from there as the tires begin to cone. You'll have it spot on when the tires wear flat for the track you're running on and you can carry the greatest corner speed.

If you've got camber set properly, you shouldn't have to true the tires that often. You'll need to cut them even less if you rotate left to right every heat or two. Front springs and center shock changes will affect the optimal camber setting, but you won't know which way to go until you run the car and get inside/outside tire measurements to correct from.

I would plan on the fronts wearing more quickly due to the cornering forces that act on them and the fact that the tire is smaller to begin with. As the fronts wear, you'll want to change the lower arm mount shims to keep the desired ride height. (You'll do the same in the rear, but less frequently.)

I would think in this case it would be beneficial to stick with the AE front end kit. Parts are widely available, cheap, and it's an excellent front end assembly.

Hope this helps!
Chris
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:10 AM   #27099
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Thanks for all the info. I didn't even know ride height was being set by shims. Any particular Associated part# you guys use for shimming?

One of the things I noticed about the Associated front end is the slop. Even if I hold on to the turnbuckles, I can still wiggle the wheels right at the axle. Do you guys shim this area too or is there something else I can do to minimize slop here. Also, I noticed I can slide the arms back and forth ever so slightly along the hinge pins. What size shims do you guys use here? Do you guys use those teflon coated shims or just regular shims?

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:35 AM   #27100
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I'd disagree about tyre wear. My rears wear far more than my fronts (I use a harder compound on the front as well). Aim for 4mm between front and rear diameters (eg 50mm r / 46mm f down to 46mm r /42mm f)

As for slop, sounds like the balls/ballcups are worn - cheap fix is to take a thin plastic bag, cut a disc 10mm diameter and use as padding, you may need more than 1 depending on how much play you have.

I run 0 toe in/out, -1 degree castor on a L4.

Also check your width, the L4 is quite narrow and you need to shim it out at the rear - but wheels must be equidistant from centreline
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:17 PM   #27101
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Keep in mind that all wheels aren't created equal. The mounting plane from the outside edge of the wheel will vary between wheel styles - even within the same manufacturer. Easiest way to do this is to measure the front of the chassis and find the centerline, then measure the rear of the main chassis plate and find the centerline. with the rear pod attached, place your straight edge (or ruler) at the center of the front and center of the rear main plate and mark this on the rear pod. Now measure from this reference mark. This is because the rear pods are all offset for the gearing. I have my rear track width set at max, and have to adjust the shimming for each different style rim.

good luck.
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Old 10-04-2007, 01:51 PM   #27102
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A quick check for your 1/12th front springs is to both springs over a screw driver of the right diameter (on top of each other) and then compress the top spring over the bottom spring. If both springs are equal, then they will compress at the same rate and be fully compressed at exactly the same time. If one is stronger than the other, it will compress at a slower rate meaning that the weaker spring compresses fully before the stronger one does. I hope you see what I mean by that and you would be amazed how far out some 'pairs' of new springs really are!! All the best, Chris.
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:06 AM   #27103
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Thanks for the tips, gents. I'll let you guys know how I do at the races.
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:07 PM   #27104
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Hey's guys need some help can anyone please tell me how to gear these 10.5 Brushless motors. The track Im racing on is a carpet ozite 100x50 with a 88 spur and a rear 1.78" tire size what gear would you suggest? here are the motors listed below.

Orion 10.5
Novak 10.5
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:15 PM   #27105
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Ok, this will be my last question for this post. Someone is selling a used CRC Pro Strut end. Is it worth it? How much more superior is it compared to the stock AE one? At my level, would it really make that much difference?

Thanks for your help!

Just thought we would jump in with some quick race updates on the CRC Pro Strut Front end....

This past weekend at the IIC race in Las Vegas, Team Corally Driver Marc Fischer was really struggling with his Corally 12X. For the front end, Marc used a Associated front end with a lot of CRC option parts on it.

Running out of ideas on how to get his car competitive, he dropped off his Corally in the CRC pits and asked us to give the new CRC Pro Strut a try on his car. We put a Pro Strut front end on his car (yes, CRC guys working on the Corally!).

Until that point, Marc's best lap was a 10.3. On his 3rd lap after installing the Pro Strut, he nailed down a 9.9 and came back from practice with a big smile on his face. His car felt great and he went from off the pace to contender, just that easy. Shortly after that, a few other Team Corally drivers were busy fitting their cars with the front end.

Obviously, the Pro Strut was on the CRC Generation X cars. Three cars made both the stock and modified A-mains.

Don't be afriad to give the Pro Strut a go. With the new molded ride height spacers (ditching the culprit red washer/spacers) we have practically eliminated lower arm failures. The newest plastic is very tough and many of the parts have been beefed up and improved. In fact, we had ZERO lower arm failures in Las Vegas. It's durable, much easier to adjust the play and fit of the various parts as well as having all the adjustments needed to get your car dialed in.

Any hobby dealer can get the parts from Horizon Hobby Distributors or directly from CRC. In addition, obnline shops like Ashford Hobby, Stormer Racing and Superior Hobbies stock the parts. Also, we ship right away from our web store.

Thanks,

Team CRC
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