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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-02-2007, 08:24 AM   #27076
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Hi,

thanks. Sounds great.
I don't understand the difference between the magenta and double pink? Which one has more traction? In which one is closer in performance compared to the CRC magenta?

Cheers
Chris

2x pink is 35 shore and magenta is 32
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:25 AM   #27077
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
my purples never gum up
and thats good to know about the yellows
Purples pick up traction as they heat up. On higher bite surfaces they gum up. At this point it is good to go to blacks. They are the same shore rating but black has less natural rubber in it.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:31 AM   #27078
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Purples pick up traction as they heat up. On higher bite surfaces they gum up. At this point it is good to go to blacks. They are the same shore rating but black has less natural rubber in it.
ya i found this too,on a big race they seem to work good

but they do wear fast.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:51 AM   #27079
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Originally Posted by primusblowsgoat View Post
Looks like a Corally axle so I would assume its a Corally pod?

From this website. looks like its the stock pod on the sp12x.
http://www.corallyusa.com/sp12x.htm
Yeah but I wanted to know how to adapt the AE parts on the Corally rear pod?
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:53 AM   #27080
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Default Newb CRC 3.2 question

Hi Guys: please help a noob out- I'm crossing over from 8th scale on-road nitro back to 12th electric for the winter.. (isn't that what it was made for!?)

How major are the differences between a CRC 3.2 and a GenX??? Can a 3.2 be brought up to current with parts???
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Old 10-02-2007, 10:06 AM   #27081
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Speedmerchant Rev 5---

The new Speedmerchant design is great... The Rev 5 won stock in Vegas where corner speed makes all the difference. In modified we obviously had some issues with items such as electronics and power situations. My opinion of the car is it is really good and extremely durable. Trust me I put it to the test in Mod hitting a car at full speed down the straight a couple of times and trying to move the center section of the track with the car. lol... The car never went out tweak and didn't break.

Obviously the front end is durable and different making it very adjustable, but the rear end is also different. The rear end of the car gives you more than enough room to use any motor from brushed to brushless and accessibility to drop the motor in from the top of the car.

Congrats to Steve B for winning the 12th scale stock A-Main at the IIC of 07.
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Old 10-02-2007, 10:58 AM   #27082
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Are many guys switching over from brushed to brushless in this class?? how about battery use?? what should I be using if i switch to brushless??


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Originally Posted by Mike Dumas View Post
Speedmerchant Rev 5---

Obviously the front end is durable and different making it very adjustable, but the rear end is also different. The rear end of the car gives you more than enough room to use any motor from brushed to brushless and accessibility to drop the motor in from the top of the car.
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Old 10-02-2007, 11:40 AM   #27083
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Originally Posted by ScudMan View Post
Hi Guys: please help a noob out- I'm crossing over from 8th scale on-road nitro back to 12th electric for the winter.. (isn't that what it was made for!?)

How major are the differences between a CRC 3.2 and a GenX??? Can a 3.2 be brought up to current with parts???
no the Gen X is a totally different car.
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:45 PM   #27084
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Originally Posted by ScudMan View Post
Are many guys switching over from brushed to brushless in this class?? how about battery use?? what should I be using if i switch to brushless??
My next race will be with the Novak 4 cell GTB and Velociti 3.5R motor, and I am looking forward to giving brushless a try. I think many people switch over for decreased maintenance and consistent performance, but 1/12 scale cars are not very hard on motors I find. I only cut my comms on my 8 and 9 doubles every 4 runs or so.

As far as batteries, any good matched 4200 pack will be just fine. Keep in mind a brushless system is only as good as the batteries that feed it.
-Kane
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:59 PM   #27085
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Originally Posted by Mike Dumas View Post
Speedmerchant Rev 5---

The new Speedmerchant design is great... The Rev 5 won stock in Vegas where corner speed makes all the difference. In modified we obviously had some issues with items such as electronics and power situations. My opinion of the car is it is really good and extremely durable. Trust me I put it to the test in Mod hitting a car at full speed down the straight a couple of times and trying to move the center section of the track with the car. lol... The car never went out tweak and didn't break.

Obviously the front end is durable and different making it very adjustable, but the rear end is also different. The rear end of the car gives you more than enough room to use any motor from brushed to brushless and accessibility to drop the motor in from the top of the car.

Congrats to Steve B for winning the 12th scale stock A-Main at the IIC of 07.

you just need more practice. come on out and I am sure that we can help you with your setup. lol
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Old 10-02-2007, 02:31 PM   #27086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dumas View Post
Speedmerchant Rev 5---

The new Speedmerchant design is great... The Rev 5 won stock in Vegas where corner speed makes all the difference. In modified we obviously had some issues with items such as electronics and power situations. My opinion of the car is it is really good and extremely durable. Trust me I put it to the test in Mod hitting a car at full speed down the straight a couple of times and trying to move the center section of the track with the car. lol... The car never went out tweak and didn't break.

Obviously the front end is durable and different making it very adjustable, but the rear end is also different. The rear end of the car gives you more than enough room to use any motor from brushed to brushless and accessibility to drop the motor in from the top of the car.

Congrats to Steve B for winning the 12th scale stock A-Main at the IIC of 07.
I like the new EV10/Revolver12 style front end. Surprised that 2 rod ends on the king pin actually fits inside the wheel. Got to be as much of a pain to adjust though as the EV10 was since both links affect both caster and camber. Is it using some sort of bushing on the graphite lower plate? Will the front end be available seperately?
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:08 PM   #27087
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I like the new EV10/Revolver12 style front end. Surprised that 2 rod ends on the king pin actually fits inside the wheel. Got to be as much of a pain to adjust though as the EV10 was since both links affect both caster and camber. Is it using some sort of bushing on the graphite lower plate? Will the front end be available seperately?
Actually, the camber link is almost completely in-line with the kingpin, so there is only a slight amount of change with the caster, and is easy to adjust in. I set my camber first, then caster, then re-check camber. Usually the change is so small that I ignore further changes. There is plenty of room between the captured ball links and the wheel. For the smaller wheels (Jacos and Parmas), I pulled one of the shims from below the lower arm and moved it to the top, as there is more upper pin clearance than lower clearance. The moving the shim to the top was to clear the sticker dot...

My car got really punished in open practice with mod sedans on the track at the same time, at the IIC, and the car performed just as well after the big malee.
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Old 10-03-2007, 01:37 AM   #27088
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Cool...still want one seperately though. I prefer my in-line battery car (Darkside Mx2) but would like that front end on it.
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Old 10-03-2007, 02:22 AM   #27089
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ops wrong thread...
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:33 AM   #27090
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Cool...still want one seperately though. I prefer my in-line battery car (Darkside Mx2) but would like that front end on it.
Probably in the near future you can have your cake and eat it too...
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