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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-24-2007, 09:01 PM   #27031
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There arn't as many parts on a 1/12 scale as the touring car, but compaired to my MTX-3 They break much faster!!!

Driving these cars fast is a challenge, when you toss a good 19 turn or 10.5 in they are almost balstic, go to a 5.5 they can fly!! I agree with Scottrick on the motor. I run 1/8 and 1/10 nitro and the 1/12 scale cars on carpet inside in an 8 min race, you will come off tired!! I beleive it has to do with the amount of inputs in a 9-12 sec lap's which is what you will probably end up turning.

With that said, this is really a great Driver / Chassis / Motor class. To be fast you need it all.

I'm missing on almost all of these, so I just have fun!!
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:10 PM   #27032
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Default Mike Lufaso Website

I have been reading the 1/12 forum and I have been trying to find the linkage to the Mike Lufaso website that is talked about here.

The link I have below goes to some site called road runner and says it is not available.

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html


Can somebady help me find it please.

Cheers
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:56 PM   #27033
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Default Starting 1/12 class, what brushless to use??

Thanks everyone for their interest in replying to my questions!!!

As a result of your advice, we will not be using anything faster than a 10.5!!!
I see an advantage is using brushless. We do not true comms and replace brushes... I remember when we had to do that some time ago... Not willing to go back to it.

We have driven Mini Z's in the tight RCP tracks but hated how everything in the cars is so small!! hahaha!! Very difficult to repair, but we really enjoyed how agile those cars were when hopped-up!! We were even using the foam tires and really fought to keep the cars from traction rolling, but it was lots of fun.

I keep on telling the guys here we will enjoy 1/12 because it will really challenge our reflexes and skills, but everything is modular, unlike the Mini Z.

If you burn your servo, just drop in a new one... Ever tried fixing a servo in a Mini Z?? hahahhaha!!!

Parts count is also a plus in 1/12!!

Let's hope we can get started soon!!

Thanks!!
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Old 09-24-2007, 11:20 PM   #27034
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I see an advantage is using brushless. We do not true comms and replace brushes... I remember when we had to do that some time ago... Not willing to go back to it.
Not many people truing comms on Silver Cans either. The original Ron Popeil motor..."Set it and forget it".
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Old 09-24-2007, 11:41 PM   #27035
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Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
Hi,

We are exploring the chance of starting the 1/12 class in our town.

I realize that speed comes with skill, but we are wondering what a starting point could be in terms of motors. We would like to use Novak brushless. What wind count should we use?? Obviously the lower turns the faster, but we want to keep control of the cars. I'd think 3.5 or 4.5 is probably too fast.

Haven´t seen these cars run other than in videos...

Any advice here is greatly appreciated!!
we have a loyal 12th following at our track and this year most of us are going to brushless 13.5 just for the maintance factor even though as it was you could go 2 or 3 weeks on a stock brushed motor before you really needed to turn it. the 13.5 is stupid fast on our 48x70 track I was turning 10.2 second laps on my xrat t2 and popped it in my crc tfource and kicked it down to 9.8 second laps. so it is faster. an alternative is going with a 17.5 if you want a spec version. looks like lrp and novak are starting to come out with those as most have noticed that a 13.5 should be about a 14.5 to really compete with stock. although a good driver with a brushed stock can outrun a bad driver most days with a 13.5. as for 12th scale as a class in general you have less parts as was said and then then parts are cheaper also. and the tires are cheaper and the batteries are cheaper as you only have 4 cells. all in all if you keep it stock or 13.5 it will be a cheap class. I honestly don't think you can put the tourqe power from a 10.5 down as I have my diff prettty tight just to keep from burning it up. the 13.5 will pull brushed out of a corner as it is all grunt. just remember to gear up a bit. I got my 78 tooth 64 pitch gears coming in next week when I get back from vegas.
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Old 09-25-2007, 02:43 AM   #27036
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What is the best odor free tire additive for foams?
Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2007, 03:20 AM   #27037
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Originally Posted by Tral View Post
What is the best odor free tire additive for foams?
Thanks.
Corally TC-4 Carpet jack
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:59 AM   #27038
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Believe it or not everything has some type of odor to it. With that said, the "best" odor free stuff that I have used is Paragon WITH about 3 onces of Vanilla extract added. The vanilla REALLY tames down the oil of wintergreen smell of Paragon without seemingly changing its great grip characteristics.

Most people that have problems with Paragon have problems with the oil of wintergreen smell aspect. If I remember the chemical analysis report that I read, Paragon is actually LESS toxic than Jack but people who react to the smell don't realize that fact (and that's been proven by a person with their doctorate degree in chemical engineering after a chemical analysis if I am not mistaken). The oil of wintergreen in Paragon is actually not toxic if I understand it correctly, it is just the smell that some people react to.

There are other people that have posted that they have even worse reactions to Jack but Jack lovers like to ignore or dismiss their claims because it is contrary to what they experience or believe.
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:27 AM   #27039
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I really like the Niftech traction compound. Only down side is it's only available directly from Niftech.

Tried Jack the Gripper at an event that spec'd it. It seemed to work fine (then again, the groove was SO black you could do w/o additive) but I HATED the slimy mess. With Niftech you don't even have to wipe the tires unless you apply it too close to your heat.

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Old 09-25-2007, 07:55 AM   #27040
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I don't think the problem with Paragon is toxicity. The accumulated vapors from it is what makes people sick. My wife can't stand the smell. When I come home from the track I have to change my clothes immediately. For those of us who are used to it it's not a problem, but for a newcomer who gets nauseous the first time from the fumes, they're probably not coming back.

I remember the first carpet race I ever went to, in 1988. In every single person's pit was a bottle of extra strength Tylenol.
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:18 AM   #27041
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I don't think the problem with Paragon is toxicity. The accumulated vapors from it is what makes people sick. My wife can't stand the smell. When I come home from the track I have to change my clothes immediately. For those of us who are used to it it's not a problem, but for a newcomer who gets nauseous the first time from the fumes, they're probably not coming back.

I remember the first carpet race I ever went to, in 1988. In every single person's pit was a bottle of extra strength Tylenol.
And now its Excedrin Migraine...

Interesting how the topic / debate of traction compound always seems to come back to the forum...personally I wish they would just do away with the stuff all together.
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:58 PM   #27042
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Yep Jiml... That's why a few onces of Vanilla extract really seems to work wonders which is why I can't understand why more people haven't tried it or Paragon hasn't simply added it already.
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Old 09-25-2007, 06:11 PM   #27043
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Ive always been a fan od B&B Products' "Stick E.T."

The smell isnt too terrible, and you dont wipe your tires, simply apply it and let dry. I do think running the tires dry would be fun though.
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Old 09-25-2007, 06:32 PM   #27044
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And now its Excedrin Migraine...
No, Excedrin Migraine is being a Regional Director!
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Old 09-26-2007, 06:53 AM   #27045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tral View Post
What is the best odor free tire additive for foams?
Thanks.

Here in the UK we've been using this list for @ least 3 years now,

Quote:
Additives for the 2007/8 season are still to be only of the odourless variety: -

Those found so far: -

Corally TC2 (Jack the Gripper) Silver can - pink writing (13779)
LRP Top Traction (Blue Factor) White can - blue writing (6501)
Orion Street Juice (TC Traction F1) clear bottle - purple writing (44101)
Orion Foam Juice Formula clear bottle – yellow writing (44105)
CS Grip Tyre Conditioner – High Grip clear bottle white label (C6400)
- Or short tin can - white and yellow label (C6400)
Speedtech Foam Liquid - Short tin can - white label (No part number)

The packaging of the CS addative changed -same part number, two types of container

If you have another odourless additive you would like checked as being ok this can be done by giving it or sending it to the committee (via the eligibility officer please) However don't expect it to be done on the day at a national, we'll need a couple of weeks to check it (chemically and on the track).
(This is because certain additives when mixed on a track can destroy the grip for everybody present, those listed above are all known to work together ok)
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