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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-20-2007, 11:10 AM   #26971
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I have just got my hands on an old but brand new Associated L3. Can anybody give me any tips or mods to do to this car??? I am going to run it on carpet and run 19t.

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:36 AM   #26972
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No problem OD. I knew you were busting my chops, what chops I have left.
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:56 AM   #26973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan D View Post
I have just got my hands on an old but brand new Associated L3. Can anybody give me any tips or mods to do to this car??? I am going to run it on carpet and run 19t.

Thanks in advance
Get rid of the Stealth diff and get a big ring differential from IRS or Niftech.
Replace the motor plates with lowered ones from IRS or CRC.
When the front end wears out or you break something, replace the lower arms with the new IRS lowered ones.

That's it!
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Old 09-20-2007, 12:00 PM   #26974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer View Post
Orion Vortex Brushless Motors

anyone had chance to run 1 yet on 4 cell?

how'd they go compared to LRP, Novak items etc ?
I will test next week, or maybe this...

//p
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Old 09-20-2007, 02:17 PM   #26975
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Man I hope you guys can help me out....I recently purchsed a crc 3.2r and some guys at my LHS are telling me to sale it saying its to wide and to get a Gen x is this true?...Whats the difference between the Genx and say a 12L4 is it just preference or engineering ? Which way should I go any help would be appriciated.....
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Old 09-20-2007, 02:33 PM   #26976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NUCRPTRACER View Post
Man I hope you guys can help me out....I recently purchsed a crc 3.2r and some guys at my LHS are telling me to sale it saying its to wide and to get a Gen x is this true?...Whats the difference between the Genx and say a 12L4 is it just preference or engineering ? Which way should I go any help would be appriciated.....

the genx/ 3.2r are link cars. the 12l4 is a t-bar car. they are 2 diff. animals.
I have not ran the genx chassis but I've heard some say that they prefered the 3.2r and that they were faster with it.

are you runnign on asphalt or carpet?
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Old 09-20-2007, 02:55 PM   #26977
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Originally Posted by EricF View Post
the genx/ 3.2r are link cars. the 12l4 is a t-bar car. they are 2 diff. animals.
I have not ran the genx chassis but I've heard some say that they prefered the 3.2r and that they were faster with it.

are you runnign on asphalt or carpet?
carpet....Always for me
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:08 PM   #26978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan D View Post
I have just got my hands on an old but brand new Associated L3. Can anybody give me any tips or mods to do to this car??? I am going to run it on carpet and run 19t.

Thanks in advance
I acquired recently a used L3 and did some research to slightly upgrade the car.

I will post the major parts I purchase with ref and manufacturers, just have to put my hand on the list!
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:19 PM   #26979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NUCRPTRACER View Post
Man I hope you guys can help me out....I recently purchsed a crc 3.2r and some guys at my LHS are telling me to sale it saying its to wide and to get a Gen x is this true?...Whats the difference between the Genx and say a 12L4 is it just preference or engineering ? Which way should I go any help would be appriciated.....
First...honest gut-check time. The fact you have to ask the question (and shame on the folks at your LHS for putting the question in your mind...) tells me you wouldn't know the difference between the two if you drove 'em back to back. That level of experience takes TIME.

Second...I wouldn't have the Gen-X up my a$$ if I had room for a barn. But that's personal choice, just like the guys at your LHS, just like most folks here. Your best bet would be to spend this year racing your 3.2R (which is a DARN good car) and learn set-up's, how different adjustments affect the car, and adapt it to your own style. Once you get to where you can see what the different adjustments do and IF you find an aspect of your 3.2R that you just can't adjust to your liking...THEN you try to find a chassis that will. IF there is one. And someone had better be able to show you why chassis X will solve your ills because there really isn't a lot of difference between any of the chassis out there when you get right down to it. And NO difference between them that a first year (or second, or many third) driver would be able to exploit.

Drive what you've got, have fun with it. The best part about 1/12 is that you will learn something new every race weekend. I know guys that have raced 'em for 20 years now and STILL hear 'em go "Hmmm..." every week.

Scottrik
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:55 PM   #26980
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Bryan,

As said, here are the parts I ordered to refresh and slightly upgrade a used L3:
4222 - CRC - Complete Large Ring Diff - Silver (there are others colors)

As mine is used:
1972 - Robinson - Spur Gear 48DP 72T - Was thinking in ordering a Kimbrough 48DP 76T - the one from stock but not available @ LHS . Is that a "good" choice knowing I shall start with 540 or so?
4520 - Associated - 12LC/L3/L4 Symmetrical T -bar, .063" thick - spare
1610 - Protoform - Speed 12 B
2325 - Jaco - Jaco 1/12 Medium Firm Low 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Purple
2345 - Jaco - Jaco 1/12 Wheel/Tire Rear Gray


After, there is some items I purchase because I don't them at all, re-entering RC after a will:
6591 - Associated - Associated Diff Lube, 4cc
6588 - Associated - Black Grease

I did not buy any lower motor mount or so, the first step is to learn how things works!

Any comment?

Last edited by Arn0; 09-20-2007 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:04 PM   #26981
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Quote:
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Second...I wouldn't have the Gen-X up my a$$ if I had room for a barn.
Scott,
Interesting saying. That's the kind of mental image we can do without.
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:20 PM   #26982
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Scott,
Interesting saying. That's the kind of mental image we can do without.
...all right, how 'bout "they're about as F-ed up as a football bat". I don't know where I got all these expressions I use, but they seem to be a source of nonstop amusement for my buds.

But I hope you see my point--I was trying to make an extreme example that we all have opinions. Some are very strong opinions. I really think his lhs is doing him a disservice to tell him to get rid of a perfectly good car and replace it with one that there's no way in hell will be any better (or worse) for him.

The fact I REALLY don't like the Gen X (owned 2 of 'em, mind you) doesn't enter into it one little bit
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:17 PM   #26983
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...I wouldn't have the Gen-X up my a$$ if I had room for a barn. Scottrik[/quote]

How about a Slappy? Tell us how you really feel
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:44 PM   #26984
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I just received my new Gen-X and I must say, my experience with the car is nothing but positive. The car goes together easy and is both easier to drive and quicker than my old car.

I do wish they labeled the tires in the kit, everyone tells me they are purple front and grey rear, for stock on carpet, they work well. Can anyone confirm? Purple + grey?
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:08 PM   #26985
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Hey all, so I'm a noob to 1/12th. Just picked up a T-Fource and I'm wondering about rollout and tire diameters. I saw earlier in this thread that OD recommended a 63mm rollout for the Novak 13.5 with the sintered, which I likely what I'll be running, but I'm wondering what tire diameter I should be shooting for to achieve this? The tires I got with the car are some pinks that are about 47-48mm judging my my crappy manual caliper. The spur gear on the tranny is a 64p 92 tooth gear so I've got my 40 tooth pinion mounted up.
I guess I'm jsut wondering what most guys will trim a new rear down to for high-bite carpet? Specifically I'll be running at NorCal (I think OD runs there) and AllSpeed in the bay are.

Thanks!
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