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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-14-2007, 03:00 PM   #26941
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No one play Cyclone 12 ?
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Old 09-14-2007, 03:32 PM   #26942
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where in US can you get parts for it ? not so interest to wait 10 days for parts to ship from oversea.

I was planning to get that but CRC seem to have more support here
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Old 09-14-2007, 04:56 PM   #26943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
No slow CA...use the thin stuff in pink bottle. I always use the "Zap" brand. It's important to shake the excess CA off the Q-tip. (believe me there is usually alot)

If cotton was left on the chassis it usually means a spot was missed during the sanding process (Kind of like running a Q-tip accross your finger to locate a splinter) I go all the way to 600 grit so its allways smooth. Also, if you stop the motion of the application for a split second you run the risk of bonding the Q-Tip to the chassis...

I've found there to be a chemical reaction when using some of the knock off brands of Q-Tip. Not sure why? I stick with the J&J brand...best ones I've found have been the wooden stick base...they stopped selling them in my area so now I'm stuck with the card board base

I tried the direct application of small CA bottle directly to the chassis and allowing the drop to run the length of the outer edge. May hands are not steady enough...just never worked for me.

That's the same stuff I use though I don't normally have any excess to shake off the tip...maybe that's why. I sand all the way down to 800 or 1000 grit usually then even turn the paper over and use the back...a trick I picked up back in woodshop class, so I'm not getting any snags. I just end up with little clumps of glue that dry fast enough to pull parts of the Q-tip off with it. I used to be real good with glueing chassis but now that I'm older I'm finding the same thing and get drips all over. Maybe I'll give Q-tips another try.
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Old 09-14-2007, 05:00 PM   #26944
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Hello !

I have tweak issues with my trinity black widow...
I set the tweak perfectly, but when i run just the smallest touch in a curb tweaks the hole car... what can that be ? I have tried to chance T-bar but thier was no differens from the other one.

When i had a calandra there was a hard crash involevd to make the tweak bad, but like a said the trinity i VERY senstive..

//Peter
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:34 PM   #26945
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hey guys, does anyone know of a good carbon fiber substitute that I can use to prototype my 18th scale brushless & lipo 12th scale? I've been thinking fiberglass...
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Old 09-15-2007, 01:25 AM   #26946
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smojoe, you can try using the circuit-board material, just tear off the folium. That would be the cheapest way
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Old 09-15-2007, 01:33 AM   #26947
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Originally Posted by smojoe View Post
hey guys, does anyone know of a good carbon fiber substitute that I can use to prototype my 18th scale brushless & lipo 12th scale? I've been thinking fiberglass...
g-10 fiberglass sheet, you can get it at www.mcmaster.com
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Old 09-16-2007, 05:05 AM   #26948
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here are a couple of newb questions for you guys. (that you have probably been asked a million times... but this thread is huge, and i dont have the time to read all of it :P )

I've just recently acquired a tyre lathe. and i'm wondering what kind of tyre diameters you tru your tyres down to for your 12ths? (outdoor)

I've trued a pair of my rears to 43MM, and my fronts to 42MM. i've set it to 3.4MM ride height. Is that about right?

If it matters, the track i'll be running it on is low to medium bite. and isn't bumpy

Any pointers would be awesome
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:16 PM   #26949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovalnator View Post
I race mine at Frank Calandras track (owner of CRC) in Rome NY
I live in syracuse NY, wow, well anyways i just got a L3 and i have a dumb quesion i guess, with that kit, theres a white rod that sticks up so you can rap the antenna around it but i broke most of it off cause i want to just use a tube so i can put the antenna in the middle of it, the reason i took almost all of it off is cause it wont pull out, does it perminatly in there or how the hell can i slide it out??
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Old 09-16-2007, 05:16 PM   #26950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivingpro View Post
here are a couple of newb questions for you guys. (that you have probably been asked a million times... but this thread is huge, and i dont have the time to read all of it :P )

I've just recently acquired a tyre lathe. and i'm wondering what kind of tyre diameters you tru your tyres down to for your 12ths? (outdoor)

I've trued a pair of my rears to 43MM, and my fronts to 42MM. i've set it to 3.4MM ride height. Is that about right?

If it matters, the track i'll be running it on is low to medium bite. and isn't bumpy

Any pointers would be awesome
Those diameters are pretty small for low bite asphalt, good for carpet because the small tire will free the car up. You will usually be looking for more side bite on asphalt which a larger tire will give you. We usually run tires in the 46mm range for the rears and 44mm in the front. For very low bite it seems to help to use a bigger spread in the diameter from rear to front, like 47mm rear 43-44 mm front. Higher ride height will also enhance traction to a degree, I never run lower than 4mm unless the bite is high and the track is smooth
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Old 09-16-2007, 05:20 PM   #26951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsxskyd View Post
I live in syracuse NY, wow, well anyways i just got a L3 and i have a dumb quesion i guess, with that kit, theres a white rod that sticks up so you can rap the antenna around it but i broke most of it off cause i want to just use a tube so i can put the antenna in the middle of it, the reason i took almost all of it off is cause it wont pull out, does it perminatly in there or how the hell can i slide it out??
You should be able to knock it out from the bottom with a punch.

BUT...The white rod is called a "roll over" and is used on 1/12th cars to right them after tumbling. I'm sure you think that the flexible tube from a touring car is a good way to go, but you will change your mind when your car is stuck on its lid and everyone else is passing you
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Old 09-16-2007, 05:58 PM   #26952
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great thanks for the help odpurple.

P.S love your wiring jobs! you're an inspiration to many!
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Old 09-16-2007, 06:14 PM   #26953
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Originally Posted by drivingpro View Post
great thanks for the help odpurple.

P.S love your wiring jobs! you're an inspiration to many!
Thanks for the compliment

One thing I forgot to mention about tires and asphalt: Experiment! different aggregates have different bite characteristics so sometimes the "normal" compounds/diameters/sauces don't work. How the surfaces are sealed or not, how porous it is and what is sprayed onto it can make a big difference. We've even run into situations where the best tire to use is good old greens (thankfully not often)
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Old 09-16-2007, 06:37 PM   #26954
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Amen to that OD. I stopped by the Florida state race today at K raceway down here and talk about strange traction. The TC's had no problem but the 1/12th cars were. Everyone still ran the same compounds but the cars didnt seem to be "in the track". They had that strange,sandy sound in the corners. It didnt matter which style of car either. Really strange. That track is friggin huge and your car carries some speed so the steering or lack there of became an issue. I could swear that you could get away with pink fronts
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Old 09-16-2007, 08:20 PM   #26955
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Amen to that OD. I stopped by the Florida state race today at K raceway down here and talk about strange traction. The TC's had no problem but the 1/12th cars were. Everyone still ran the same compounds but the cars didnt seem to be "in the track". They had that strange,sandy sound in the corners. It didnt matter which style of car either. Really strange. That track is friggin huge and your car carries some speed so the steering or lack there of became an issue. I could swear that you could get away with pink fronts
At the IFMAR World's on that track guys were running the additional gurney flaps on thier Speed 12's for more traction. There were cutting the ribs out of thier rims for more rim flex an the fastest guys were running Yokomo foam that no one had access to except for Masami and some of team AE.

Thats was with an extreme coat of sugar water and still no traction.

I think all the rain we have has lately has washed off all the good traction the nitro cars normally lay down (foam and castor oil).
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