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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-11-2007, 06:05 PM   #26926
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Originally Posted by Tron 101 View Post
Here's some pics....
That is an original Trinity Switchblade. That is one of the best handling t-bar car ever made. It was better then the 4 cell Spashett edition that came later. When you run 4 cell in the back two slots it has a more rearward weight bias than the Spashett edition so it transfers weight harder and turns better.

The front suspension is the best pan car front suspension ever made. It is a nightmare to get aligned right but once you got it its awesome.

FYI, the only thing that breaks is the t-bar and you can use Associated RC12 L/L3/L4 t-cars and pivot assemblies. IF you need chassis plates and front end parts call trinity. I bet they still have parts.
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:13 PM   #26927
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Does anyone know if you can fit a Novak 13.55SS into a CRC T-Fource? How about using a GTB as a speedo, I know its big, but can it be done?
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CRC T-Fource
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:49 PM   #26928
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Does anyone know if you can fit a Novak 13.55SS into a CRC T-Fource? How about using a GTB as a speedo, I know its big, but can it be done?
I have a 13.5 in my 3.1 so it should'nt be a problem, the 4-cell gtb will fit but a standard GTB will not unless you remove the heatsink yourself. I've read here that some peeps have done that but not I.
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Old 09-11-2007, 09:28 PM   #26929
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cool. For stock 4-cell I don't think removing the heatsink is much of a problem.
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Old 09-13-2007, 05:35 AM   #26930
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Hello,
Can someone explain to me how you prep a new chassis? Just sand it and seal it with ca glue?
Thanks
Mark
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Old 09-13-2007, 05:58 AM   #26931
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Originally Posted by mrhenning11 View Post
Hello,
Can someone explain to me how you prep a new chassis? Just sand it and seal it with ca glue?
Thanks
Mark
http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...rder=0&thold=0
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:08 AM   #26932
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Thank You!
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:58 AM   #26933
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As far as sanding the chassis, I have followed Mark Payne's excellent advice for a couple years now. One of the things hidden in his information-packed blog is that he does not sand the chassis edge. His reasoning is that by rounding the edges you lose the crisp edge by which to measure/judge ride height. This makes infinite sense to me, so all my chassis are CA-sealed but not sanded.

Haven't split a chassis yet.

Touch wood.

Scottrik
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:06 PM   #26934
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Hi everyone,

A little post to say I receive some parts to refresh an L3 (see some posts some pages back). I order some parts the LHS - I've been kind to do so - and still expecting others than could not be ordered there - CRC parts and a bodyshell.

I read somewhere about spur gear, something like, what the smallest nbr of teeth we can get? I have a 72 spur gear, that a piece of tiny thing! Now i need to get something to calculate ratio, maybe gearchart.com or a excel sheet will do the job!

I will put some pics to compare what I have now and the refreshed car!

Scottrik, thanks for the ymmv explanation!
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:10 PM   #26935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
As far as sanding the chassis, I have followed Mark Payne's excellent advice for a couple years now. One of the things hidden in his information-packed blog is that he does not sand the chassis edge. His reasoning is that by rounding the edges you lose the crisp edge by which to measure/judge ride height. This makes infinite sense to me, so all my chassis are CA-sealed but not sanded.

Haven't split a chassis yet.

Touch wood.

Scottrik
Yes, I do the same, but I run a knife over the top to get any CA that crept over the side, so ride height is more accurate.
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Old 09-14-2007, 06:42 AM   #26936
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Yes, I do the same, but I run a knife over the top to get any CA that crept over the side, so ride height is more accurate.
Yes, that is a very good idea. I do the same, but since I check MY ride height against the bottom of the chassis I pay more attention to the bottom surface

Generally, though, I've found that the only place I've needed to touch is the very back lh corner of the main chassis plate where I start--I end up having to fight surface tension a bit to get that first drop of glue to "load" onto the chassis. From there I really don't get any on either side of the chassis, and I don't measure at that point, so it's only fussiness on my part that I pay attention to it at all.
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Old 09-14-2007, 08:00 AM   #26937
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I've had years of success sand and gluing the edges of chassis and graphite parts using a quality "Q-tip" as an applicator of CA.

I usually "wet" sand the edges starting with 220, 320, 400 and finishing with 600. I usually sand the chassis long ways or in the direction of the chassis, (meaning not accross the chassis where some splintering can occur)

(one word of advice...never dry sand carbon fiber...way to dangerous...wet sand always)

Once clear of dust and completely dry. Soak one side of a Q-tip swab with thin CA...shake of excess. In one motion quickly run the Q-tip around the edge of the chassis. I've gotten good enough that one motion will coat the entire chassis edge. I've never had CA drips using this method. Hang chassis to dry, do not use an accelerator. Once outer edge is dry, admire the mirror finish.

or just send your new kit to Mike Odonnel (od purple) and have him build you a sweet ass ride.
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:12 PM   #26938
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You must be using a slow CA to do that. I've tried it a few times and never had any luck with it. Either the CA would dry too much in the q-tip, or it would leave bits of cotton on the chassis, or there would be some sort of chemical reaction in the q-tip.

I sand my chassis too but don't round off the edges of the chassis. At worse I knock off the sharp edge a hair but no more then that.
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:24 PM   #26939
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You must be using a slow CA to do that. I've tried it a few times and never had any luck with it. Either the CA would dry too much in the q-tip, or it would leave bits of cotton on the chassis, or there would be some sort of chemical reaction in the q-tip.

I sand my chassis too but don't round off the edges of the chassis. At worse I knock off the sharp edge a hair but no more then that.
No slow CA...use the thin stuff in pink bottle. I always use the "Zap" brand. It's important to shake the excess CA off the Q-tip. (believe me there is usually alot)

If cotton was left on the chassis it usually means a spot was missed during the sanding process (Kind of like running a Q-tip accross your finger to locate a splinter) I go all the way to 600 grit so its allways smooth. Also, if you stop the motion of the application for a split second you run the risk of bonding the Q-Tip to the chassis...

I've found there to be a chemical reaction when using some of the knock off brands of Q-Tip. Not sure why? I stick with the J&J brand...best ones I've found have been the wooden stick base...they stopped selling them in my area so now I'm stuck with the card board base

I tried the direct application of small CA bottle directly to the chassis and allowing the drop to run the length of the outer edge. May hands are not steady enough...just never worked for me.
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:43 PM   #26940
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I've had the problem with the Q-Tip, but have had good results with the detail paint brushes that are sold in a pack of 10 or 12 for $1.25. I use the brush which is a nylon brisel. Flows well, leaves no cotton, and it will last til I get the chassis done.

Then it is only good as a "Pick", when it sets up
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