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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-09-2007, 08:00 AM   #26911
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DOH!!!

I had only looked at the "heading" rows with both inch and metric tire dia. measurements. I hadn't looked to see (though should have figured out with only one row per pinion size) that the inch and metric roll-out values were separated to the two tables.

The beauty to how you've done these is that no matter whether you're doing your measurements and roll-out in inch or metric, ANYBODY you ask for a target roll-out at a new track ALWAYS reports it in whatever units you're not using. With these tables I don't need to grab the calculator and convert...just find the reported number in the appropriate table and look at the column head to find the tire diameter in your measurement units. Ahhhh...perfect.

Guess the heading is the only fixer.

Thanks Adrian. I have an Excell sheet someone did/posted a while back but as you guessed I managed to foul up the values behind a couple cells, so it's "broken".
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Last edited by Scottrik; 09-09-2007 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 09-09-2007, 02:18 PM   #26912
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Default Switchblade manual

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can get hold of a Trinity Switchblade 12 manual? My brother has jst got a Switchblade Spashett Edition but it didn't come with a manual.

Cheers in advance.

Stu
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Old 09-09-2007, 07:51 PM   #26913
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I was looking at all my 12th scales ( 12L4, OD12, and Hyperform H12 v.1) today and examining the chassis and rear pod. What I did noticed was on the 12l4 and the OD12 that the gap between the rear pod and main chassis was different on each side of the t-bar. I took my calipers and measured the OD12 at different points in the gap ( at the three screw holes location on the t-bar). I have found that gap widens from one side to the other significantly by atleast 1.5mm. However on the Hyperform the gap had only widen by .01mm. I have also put all three cars on my setup board to see if I was imagining things, but was not due to the rear pod would not align straight with the lines on the board.The 12l4 has just been recommitioned to race again from its 10 month vacation while during that time I had been running the OD12. The hyperform had seen more action than the 12l4. I was wondering if anybody has seen this with other 12th scales out there from other maufactures even on newer cars?
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Old 09-09-2007, 08:00 PM   #26914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I was looking at all my 12th scales ( 12L4, OD12, and Hyperform H12 v.1) today and examining the chassis and rear pod. What I did noticed was on the 12l4 and the OD12 that the gap between the rear pod and main chassis was different on each side of the t-bar. I took my calipers and measured the OD12 at different points in the gap ( at the three screw holes location on the t-bar). I have found that gap widens from one side to the other significantly by atleast 1.5mm. However on the Hyperform the gap had only widen by .01mm. I have also put all three cars on my setup board to see if I was imagining things, but was not due to the rear pod would not align straight with the lines on the board.The 12l4 has just been recommitioned to race again from its 10 month vacation while during that time I had been running the OD12. The hyperform had seen more action than the 12l4. I was wondering if anybody has seen this with other 12th scales out there from other maufactures even on newer cars?
The t-bar holes are usually tight on a 4-40 screw so there should be no cocking there and the lower pod plates have counter sinks to locate them precisely in line with the t-bar. There should be no mis-alignment at all unless the t-bar is beat up or maybe if the pod plate shifted when it was being cut out.

Try loosening and retightening the rear lower pod to the t-bar...just in case you whacked the car out of alignment the last time you ran it.
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Old 09-09-2007, 08:45 PM   #26915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I was looking at all my 12th scales ( 12L4, OD12, and Hyperform H12 v.1) today and examining the chassis and rear pod. What I did noticed was on the 12l4 and the OD12 that the gap between the rear pod and main chassis was different on each side of the t-bar. I took my calipers and measured the OD12 at different points in the gap ( at the three screw holes location on the t-bar). I have found that gap widens from one side to the other significantly by atleast 1.5mm. However on the Hyperform the gap had only widen by .01mm. I have also put all three cars on my setup board to see if I was imagining things, but was not due to the rear pod would not align straight with the lines on the board.The 12l4 has just been recommitioned to race again from its 10 month vacation while during that time I had been running the OD12. The hyperform had seen more action than the 12l4. I was wondering if anybody has seen this with other 12th scales out there from other maufactures even on newer cars?
Carlos,
I measured my OD12 at the two outer t-bar screws and came up with 4.45 and 4.47mm. Very close, 2 sheets of paper is .10mm There are so many other variables that are of concern...are your tires always the same diameter, front end/axles aligned perfect, body on perfectly straight, ground absolutely level? probably not. The way you drove the car last weekend, I don't think there is anything to worry about. If you can feel the difference, you are better than me.
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Old 09-09-2007, 08:50 PM   #26916
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I was just wonerding if anybody had seen this problem. It did not bother me till Larry had said something to Ronnie.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:07 PM   #26917
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I've run into it on nearly every t-bar car I[']ve owned to some degree...

That said, sometimes flipping just the t-bar over and re-installing the rear pod will help...
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Old 09-10-2007, 05:40 AM   #26918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
I've run into it on nearly every t-bar car I[']ve owned to some degree...

That said, sometimes flipping just the t-bar over and re-installing the rear pod will help...

I agree with trips. it seams that the t-bars are not drilled all the same. I have seen where they were off quite a bit. it may also be that the holes on the chassis is wolloed(sp) out. you need a new car. or at least a new chassis.
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Old 09-10-2007, 07:33 PM   #26919
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Default Trinity spashett switchblade12

I just got this 2002 pan car off e-bay and let me tell you it is the nicest most mintiest car I've ever seen!!! I can't believe its over 5 years old! The chassis is purple flake carbon fiber! Not a scratch or even the slightest imperfection. The guy who sold it to me said it was perfect and I thought how perfect could it be? It was beautiful! Purple anodizing everywhere the rear motor pod and every other piece of aluminum is new! My favorite part is by far the purple fleck carbon fiber. I don't know wether to make this my racer or sasve it as a shelf queen. I need help. If anyone has any feedback, it would be appreciated. Like is it possible for a car as vintage and as rare to find be worth something one day? I paid 72 dollars for it!!!!!!!!!!!! Amazing.
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:46 PM   #26920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tron 101 View Post
I just got this 2002 pan car off e-bay and let me tell you it is the nicest most mintiest car I've ever seen!!! I can't believe its over 5 years old! The chassis is purple flake carbon fiber! Not a scratch or even the slightest imperfection. The guy who sold it to me said it was perfect and I thought how perfect could it be? It was beautiful! Purple anodizing everywhere the rear motor pod and every other piece of aluminum is new! My favorite part is by far the purple fleck carbon fiber. I don't know wether to make this my racer or sasve it as a shelf queen. I need help. If anyone has any feedback, it would be appreciated. Like is it possible for a car as vintage and as rare to find be worth something one day? I paid 72 dollars for it!!!!!!!!!!!! Amazing.

Pics would be nice
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Old 09-10-2007, 11:05 PM   #26921
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Default My Spankin new switchblade!!

Here's some pics....

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Old 09-10-2007, 11:14 PM   #26922
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One of the old trinitys, I've not seen that one but I'd bet that parts will be very hard to find (chassis parts tht is) if you break them. The front end and rear(axle) can be replaced with new componets np. I'd race it I don't follow the market for old style cars like this but I'd be hard pressed to think that this would gain in value. But it just depends, you might find one or two guys that really want old examples for a collection

Chris
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Old 09-10-2007, 11:19 PM   #26923
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I had this car about 3 yrs ago, the one in the middle

Its a Reflex 12 Spashette(spelling?) Edition and it was old then, the car you posted is definitely older than the one I had.
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Old 09-11-2007, 02:08 PM   #26924
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Default Guide to cutting 1/12th shell square

This is how i was told how to cut the shell square

once you set the car up level and correct ride height and the front body post are equal length and rear body post are equal length also.

You space the rear axle out with, rear axle bearings, and space the front wheels out with 1mm spacers to square the body shell.

First you mark out the rear body post post position with the uncut shell level, then ream them out. Then place the shell back on with the rear posts passing through the new holes. Then mark out the front body posts.

To mark out the ariel hole get a broken ariel and cut it to height your shell well require depending weather you are using an open cockpit or closed cockpit shell.

once that is done cut the flash of at the bottom do not cut the line yet. with the body placed leave on the car at the desired height, mark the bottom cut line 1 mm above the ride height from the ground if you want to avoid grounding the shell out.

Cut the shell out around this cut line.

Mark the center of the front wheels then with a steel rule measure 195 on crc link 196 on t-force L4 hybrid cars and 3 mm up from the front axle height mark the center of the rear axles

Then using a circle cutter cut the front wheel wells 44mm diameter and rear wheel wells 58mm diameter if you are running large tyres.


One thing is measure twice and cut once.

This will help reduce tyre chunking. and make it easyier to set up the steering with shell on as an unsquare shell will trick the eye.


Is there any other way of doing this?
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Old 09-11-2007, 03:20 PM   #26925
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FYI


I HAVE A BRAND NEW RAPIDA PRO 4-SALE. I KNOW THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR SPEEDO'S FOR 12TH SCALES.


Brand New KeyenceRapida Pro



REGARDS,
ERIC
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