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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-06-2007, 05:50 PM   #26851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Not as much as you being the chassis b*#ch being all demanding of OD, "Where is my chassis?"
If I'm a chassis B*#ch you are my biyatch....cause I own you every weekend.
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Old 09-06-2007, 06:40 PM   #26852
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Good evening everyone,

I got a little matter, purchasing a set of ball bearing to refresh an L3, the front bearing in the set come unflanged (in fact L4 bearings), the ones on the car are flanged (the stock ones for a L3). The tires are almost over so I have to buy some fresh set too (front and rear)!

Here is the trick, there is some manufacturers how make rims that fit with unflanged bearings - with a little molding on the rim axle - and other who dont'! I want to be sure to get the appropriate rim to fit the bearing! I read somewhere the good starting compromise is front Purple and rear Gray. I check PARMA, TRC, JACO, GRP, BSR, CRC but not sure about the mounting with unflanged bearing, so a confirmation will be great:
Fit unflanged bearing: CRC, JACO
Fit flanged bearing: BSR
Not sure: TRC, GRP, BSR, PARMA
I guess as Newb, the standard (not the Pro) will be better.

Thanks for your help

Arno
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Old 09-06-2007, 06:55 PM   #26853
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OK OD, with Stockton going with B/L classes what rollout for the 10.5 and 13.5's??? Also what spurs do I need to get since I think it will be a HI rollout?

Is it October 27th yet!!!
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:07 PM   #26854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Fit unflanged bearing: CRC, JACO
Fit flanged bearing: BSR
Not sure: TRC, GRP, BSR, PARMA
The older, smaller CRC wheels are unflanged. The newest high roller wheels (procuts) from CRC are flanged (some of the older highroller wheels take unflanged).

Jaco's new Prism wheels take flanged bearings. I am not sure about the older Jaco wheels.
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:11 PM   #26855
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TM Racing and the old Jaco rim (used on Jaco Dual Stage and TRC Capz) take unflanged.

Everything else takes flanged bearings.
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:17 PM   #26856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Having problems with my KO Speedo VFS perhaps a 1/12th scale master can help.

The speedo is set correctly and the punch setting are reasonable. The current limit is OFF. The problem I have is at the start of a race from a heads-up start. At the line when the buzzer goes off and I nail the throttle (i know roll-on it) the motor seems as if it stalls or just creeps off the line and once moving if fine. Problem is by this point, the guys who qualified behind me usually plow into the rear of my car or blow past me.

My lap time appear consistant once the car is moving...its just at the start of a race. Anyone running a KO VFS for 4-cell 1/12th scale you can help? Perhaps someone can provide me with the setting they use? Any advice would help?

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
I have heard the Ko/Twister speedos Fets go bad or get weak after even a little use.We had someone at TCS Nats change out his speed control{vfs1 pro} to another of the same speedo{brand new} and noticed a huge difference in performance.Fets go bad.Hopefully this is not the case for you but you never know.
Carl, definitely sounds like a transistor went bad. The motor pulls the most current from a standing start. When working properly the SC will handle the current, but if one or more FET is bad it's like having a current limiter (more like a big resistor in series). Once you get going it's not as bad, but I bet you're missing some punch out of the corners.
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:20 PM   #26857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
TM Racing and the old Jaco rim (used on Jaco Dual Stage and TRC Capz) take unflanged.

Everything else takes flanged bearings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haagar View Post
The older, smaller CRC wheels are unflanged. The newest high roller wheels (procuts) from CRC are flanged (some of the older highroller wheels take unflanged).

Jaco's new Prism wheels take flanged bearings. I am not sure about the older Jaco wheels.
Thanks for the quick answers!

The old JACO rims are those ones I guess - found the picture after asking, sorry


Is the choice of front Purple and rear Gray relevant? Don't know yet exactly where I will practice!!
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:25 PM   #26858
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It's about time to build my 1/12 scale for the up coming season. I'm looking for a good way to balance the weight left to right. I have the Hudy pins, but beleive there is some friction that makes the reading off.

Does anyone have a bearing set up to do this??

Thanks
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:26 PM   #26859
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If you run stock get double pink fronts and grey rears.

If you will be running the new Jaco Prisms try Lilac fronts (a little harder than Dbl Pink but softer than Purple) and Yellow Rears (a little softer than Grey).
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:45 PM   #26860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
If you run stock get double pink fronts and grey rears.

If you will be running the new Jaco Prisms try Lilac fronts (a little harder than Dbl Pink but softer than Purple) and Yellow Rears (a little softer than Grey).
Definitively stock to make sure to understand everything

Prims seems to have larger rim diameter than old school rim, no? And don't fit with unflanged bearing, so it's done!

Thanks Adrian, Haagar and all others for the details
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:48 PM   #26861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
It's about time to build my 1/12 scale for the up coming season. I'm looking for a good way to balance the weight left to right. I have the Hudy pins, but beleive there is some friction that makes the reading off.

Does anyone have a bearing set up to do this??

Thanks
Have you looked at the IRS Balance Buttons yet?
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:50 PM   #26862
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Default Brushless Motor in 3.2R rear pod question, really tight

Hi guys,
Question for someone who may know...
I have a crc 3.2R and recently put a 13.5 brushless in it. I'm having some difficulty with the motor tabs knocking off my damper tube, and there is not much room to adjust gear mesh, it is so close...I'm running an 88 spur and I think a 40 pinion, but it is tight...Any body have any ideas how to give me some more room? Are there different pods out there that would move the motor back a little? Smaller spurs (but how small is too small?)...
Any help and advice is appreciated.
Thanks....
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:53 PM   #26863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
OK OD, with Stockton going with B/L classes what rollout for the 10.5 and 13.5's??? Also what spurs do I need to get since I think it will be a HI rollout?

Is it October 27th yet!!!
Hey Scotty

What tires for stockton?

Probably 19 turn?
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:55 PM   #26864
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If you have room under the body it will probably be better to run the motor so the tabs stick up through the top of the rear pod. That way they don't contact the damper tubes. Only way really to get more room is a smaller spur or pinion.
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:56 PM   #26865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxratter View Post
Hi guys,
Question for someone who may know...
I have a crc 3.2R and recently put a 13.5 brushless in it. I'm having some difficulty with the motor tabs knocking off my damper tube, and there is not much room to adjust gear mesh, it is so close...I'm running an 88 spur and I think a 40 pinion, but it is tight...Any body have any ideas how to give me some more room? Are there different pods out there that would move the motor back a little? Smaller spurs (but how small is too small?)...
Any help and advice is appreciated.
Thanks....
try out this spur i have one in my DB12R it will allow you to run a smaller pinion so you will have more room.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=RRP4181
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