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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-31-2003, 04:16 AM   #2671
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Where I was racing yesterday, the record is 37 laps for 8 minutes, and 23 laps for Sedan 5 minutes. Same track, Stock motors.

Sedan average laps 13.304 Seconds per lap

1/12 GTP average 13.343 Seconds per lap, this will change as the record was broken again this week.

I took a whole second off my personal best, down to 17.1 for my best lap, as you can see I have a long way to go. That is still a huge improvement for one week.

David Root
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Old 03-31-2003, 04:55 AM   #2672
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At my track here are the lap times we normally run:

12th stock: 45 laps, low 11's high 10 second lap times
sedan stock: 25 laps, high 11's
sedan mod: 28 laps, 10's
12th mod: low 10's

12th scale should always be faster than sedan as long as its with the same motor. you cannot expect a stock 12th to be faster than a mod sedan.

also as far as getting down to the minimum weight, i am actually an ounce over, however for most tracks it doesnt make a big difference, and i have some aluminuim stuff on my car that isnt helping, lol.

Also i would not recommend using a standard servo since it will throw off your handling, since thats alot of weight. also with an AE car, which i assume uses the dynamic strut front end, you want to run the angled servo mounts.
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:28 AM   #2673
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Default question

1. what is the minimum weight required for a 1/12th car?

I am setting up my car and the servo saver that came with the kit will not fit a standard servo and it will be expensive to buy a new smaller servo, so it leads me to question #2

2. my car is a RC12L3, I am using a Futaba 9402.
I placed the servo using a Tamiya Alum Servo post on one
side and used double sided tape on the rest of the servo, so it
will stick to the chassis, it is not installed at an angle. I
possitioned it a little forward so the turnbuckles will not be at
an angle, instead straight from the steering knuckles to the
servo. I am using also a Tamiya Servo Saver, the shorter one,
the ball caps are on top instead on the bottom. It looks okay
and when I turn the servo the inside of the front wheels do
not touch the turnbuckes/ballcaps.

My question is: what will be the difference in handling(steering) and performance if I used the smaller servo and installed it in an angle? Will it steer differently from others since my servo and its placement is different? How?

Thanks and sorry for my lenghty question.
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Old 03-31-2003, 10:11 AM   #2674
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Default Weight

Minimum weight of 12th scale car without trnsponder is 28 oz. Thats ROAR and also US Indoor Champs, etc....

My Rev.3 is always underweight and its got a lot of pretty aluminum on it as well as GP packs!!! I add between 1/2 to 3/4 oz. to make sure it makes weight by 0.3 to 0.5 ounce!!!
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Old 03-31-2003, 02:49 PM   #2675
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The different size servo saver will make a difference, as well as the position it is in, and what angle it is at. all of these things affect ackerman. i know on a rev. 3 you want the servo to be far enough up so that the steering links are further forward on the saver than on the knuckles. (my sorry excuse for a diagram: / \ if that makes any sense, you dont want them angled that much, but like half an inch (around there) between the ball studs on the saver and the ones on the knuckles.)

on a dynamic strut w/ an angled servo mount i am not sure though. but there is no right answer, its all tuning, except like always you have too much of an extreme in either directoin (too much or not enough ackerman) then its bad.

also if thats a standard size servo i would take it off the car right now, and go buy a 12th scale servo. also run the grey (small size) kimbrough servo saver. i personally like aitronics servo's (the "one" for 12th scale is like $60).
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Old 04-01-2003, 12:00 AM   #2676
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Default lot of movies

Visit here then clicks
"Archive" menu on top of page.

You may require quicktime player to play them. You can download
this player from here
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http://www.kimihiko-yano.net/
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Old 04-01-2003, 07:53 AM   #2677
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Hi,

Anybody know if there's anything special come with April issue of RC World (Japanese magazine). I had saw it at bookstore and feel that there's something (like small booklet) inserted inside the magazine. These magazine look very nice even that I can't read Japanese ;-).
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Old 04-01-2003, 07:59 AM   #2678
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Default Re: lot of movies

Quote:
Originally posted by kiyano
Visit here then clicks
"Archive" menu on top of page.

You may require quicktime player to play them. You can download
this player from here
Hi Kiyano

is that webpage yours???i kinda stumble upon it a few days back and find it very informative


BTW anyone has a rollout for 6cells Stock??I'm trying to find out where to start

thanks
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Old 04-01-2003, 06:25 PM   #2679
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Stormperson - I did some checking to see if you were heading for some problems and here is what I have found. The Protoform Ascari body you have is still not approved by ROAR. The little number in the windshield is the Protoform part number, not a ROAR approval number. It turns out that Protoform has decided to sell some of these bodies before approval has been obtained. That bad news is the body you have does not meet ROAR standards per the ROAR Technical Director and will not pass at a ROAR sanctioned event. Sorry, but now you have a chance to get a ROAR approved body for the Nationals.
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Old 04-01-2003, 06:57 PM   #2680
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Blast! lol. i just hope that they resolve within a few weeks of the race so i dont end up with a paul lemiux paint job at the race, lol.
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:01 AM   #2681
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Rev.3 fanatics,

I am an owner of a track in Cleveland, Ohio and 60% of our 12th scale class are Speedmerchant rev.3's!! Last week the top five in 12th scale A-main were rev.3's and the weekend before there were 7 Rev.3's at the track!!! To make a long story short-if your looking for a Rev.3, e-mail me as I will be stocking kits and parts for our local racers and would be happy to help you guys on rctech as well.
Ray
rshuang@ameritech.net

NORCAR Club
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Old 04-02-2003, 04:26 PM   #2682
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Re speedmerchant - good to hear someone is going to be stocking the car, a couple of guys over here in Australia wanted to buy some, but could not get hold of anyone willing to supply it, the online shop is out of stock and the company never returned emails.

After which we have looked into other brands
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Old 04-02-2003, 04:45 PM   #2683
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Speaking of Speedmerchant, Im looking into getting a rev 3 roller from a gu. setup tips please?
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:18 PM   #2684
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this is the basic starting point for the rev. 3:

Front:
20 front springs (or whatever come stock), purple front tires, and run anywhere from half to 90% compound, and also take one of the heavy paper header cards that come with spare parts and cut a strip (like 3mm x the lenth of the front arm mount) and place it under the arm mount on the outside of the screws. this gives you a little bit of camber, and will make the car handle better.

Rear:

Pick up a black center spring, and 80-100 wieght oil for the center shock. also i raised the heigh of the ballstud on the antenna mount (the more horizontol it is, the more steering you have, and also it doesnt hit the battery, lol). Also run the batteries back, unless you really need alot of steering and nothing else works, since in a 12th scale rear traction is key. Run you diff as loose as possible without slipping (kinda standard for all 12th scales), and for a monster stock on a relativly large track i run 26/100 for gearing and then go up or down depending on track size and the induvidual motor (at the carpet nats this year i ran a 32/100, since the track was so big).

Also make sure your side links are perfect, they can really throw off the handling of the car.

Also when setting the front steering turnbuckles, make sure you set toe in with the servo saver straight up (both sides dont have to be equal, but the servo saver must be straight up or else you will have some messed up exponentials, lol).

A trick on the front end: instead of using e-clips which are a pain to put in and sometimes come out during race, i use a set screw (you have to drill a hole, but it isnt that hard to do) to hold in my kingpin (and i also dremeled down the lengh of it so it wouldnt run the inside of the wheel.
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Old 04-03-2003, 01:30 PM   #2685
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which is better for a low mod motor running in a tight twisty track....CRC carpet knife or 6pack??
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