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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-30-2007, 09:20 PM   #26791
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ymmv?? sorry don't know this one!!
ymmv = your mileage may vary. Not sure if you're from the US, but that was the disclaimer you always saw on car ads that advertised fuel mileage. Used to see it a LOT in the '70's and '80's. Has become a euphemism for "your experience may differ from that described".

Boy, by the time you pick up a modern axle, lowered pods, etc you are a LONG way toward (if not past) the price you can pick up a pre-3.2 Carpet Knife, 12L4, etc. Heck, I've seen used 3.2R's selling for not much more than $100 in good shape. And those cars already have the lowered pods, big ring axle, etc.

But cool city if you're wanting to do the upgrade process on your 12L3!!

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Old 08-30-2007, 09:29 PM   #26792
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Do yourself a HUGE favor and DON'T jump straight into Mod unless that is all that is run at your club.

Spend some time learning to set up and drive the car. You will get nothing but frustration, like many before you, and pack it in while proclaiming "1/12 SUCKS!!".

If your club races a Stock class, enter it. If you want to be a leg-up on everyone else start out with a Tamiya silver can motor. This frees the car up UNBELIEVEABLY and you can learn to drive it, maintaining speed as you concentrate on hitting your lines. Our experience with a silver can is it is almost EXACTLY a lap down in a stock race with decent drivers on both cars, but someone starting out in 1/12 will actually be faster with the silver can than with a stock motor. I've seen ONE guy ever that took to 1/12 with a stock motor and was fairly competitive from the get go.

What you will find is that unlike TC these cars are VERY responsive to set-up changes, either those made intentionally on your bench or those made accidentally hitting the boards.
1/12 mod is the only class we run. I have raced 1/12 mod befor using someone else's car. So I kinda know what I am getting into. I have raced 1/10 pan open mod and touring mod also. Thanks for the advice though. I will definately give the silver can a shot before I drop in the brushless. So does anyone know if the GTB 4 cell 10.5 would be competative in 1/12 mod or what other system should I look into.

Thanks again
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:36 PM   #26793
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can someone help me out with a rollout im using a 13.5 sintered on a small track..
I roll out at 63mm on our local 65'x35' carpet track
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:53 PM   #26794
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So does anyone know if the GTB 4 cell 10.5 would be competative in 1/12 mod or what other system should I look into.
I'd say it depends on the characteristics of the track you run on and the skill level of the drivers you race against. The 10.5 is OSTENSIBLY a 19T "equivalent" (it's generally accepted to be a bit quicker, but close-ish). Bob Stormer is somewhat famous for running 19T motors in Mod TC or 1/12 on our moderately technical layouts and laying waste to everybody else driving "mod" motors. Doesn't hurt that Bob's a damn good wheel too, but he takes advantage of the 19T being more driveable.

Bob also maintains, likely correctly, that there are MAYBE a couple dozen drivers in the nation who can REALLY drive mod cars. He doesn't count himself as one of them...and he's pretty good.

I don't race "mod" but 3-4 times a year. When I do I run a GTB/6.5 combo. On our track I'm not hurting for power. On larger tracks it's about as much as I need (not enough "poke" ain't THIS driver's problem...) but there are some guys like Brian Bodine who runs an LRP 4-Star and uses it very well. Those REALLY move on the straight!! I think Jari Tasilka(sp?) was running a GTB/6.5 system with a sintered rotor, and he wasn't beaten in Mod at the two big races I saw him at.
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Old 08-30-2007, 10:26 PM   #26795
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Thanks OD..
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:05 PM   #26796
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Thanks OD..
Talk to me on Saturday and I can hook you up with a roll out number for Willis.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:37 PM   #26797
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hey there:Quick question for y'all.Was just woundering why europe and japan run their 12th onroad and tc nationals as seperate events and not at same event like the usa does?Is it because one class gets so many entries they need seperate events or do they feel that each class needs it's own type of track set up?With 12th onroad getting more popular in the usa do you see seperate events for 12th onroad and tc nationals here any time soon why or why not?Just my thoughts please post your thoughts on this thanks
In Europe it is mostly a National Series, not a single event like USA and Japan.

Europe is a collection of 27 different countries, all of whom speak a different language, none of which is any bigger than the state of California. The total European population is about the same as the USA. Each country has its own National Series for each class (in general) and we then have a European Championship for each class.

The best comparison I can make is that ROAR has the Regional Series (European Country Nationals) and then you have one big National Race (European Championship). So, in effect, we have one National for the same population size as the USA.

Our UK National Series are separate because TC runs in the summer, and 12th runs in the Winter. That way, those that want to can run both classes. We have too much cold and rain to run 12th outdoors, although there's only one track in the UK that's too bumpy.

Our 12th National Series gets about 60 drivers to each of seven rounds across the UK. The European Championship gets about 80 drivers for 12th. HTH
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:49 PM   #26798
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In Europe it is mostly a National Series, not a single event like USA and Japan.

Europe is a collection of 27 different countries, all of whom speak a different language, none of which is any bigger than the state of California. The total European population is about the same as the USA. Each country has its own National Series for each class (in general) and we then have a European Championship for each class.

The best comparison I can make is that ROAR has the Regional Series (European Country Nationals) and then you have one big National Race (European Championship). So, in effect, we have one National for the same population size as the USA.

Our UK National Series are separate because TC runs in the summer, and 12th runs in the Winter. That way, those that want to can run both classes. We have too much cold and rain to run 12th outdoors, although there's only one track in the UK that's too bumpy.

Our 12th National Series gets about 60 drivers to each of seven rounds across the UK. The European Championship gets about 80 drivers for 12th. HTH

Slow Guy

That is a great explaination of how it works in your neck of the woods, thanks!

PS I'm still gonna kick yer ass in the diff challenge
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:58 AM   #26799
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1/12 mod is the only class we run. I have raced 1/12 mod befor using someone else's car. So I kinda know what I am getting into. I have raced 1/10 pan open mod and touring mod also. Thanks for the advice though. I will definately give the silver can a shot before I drop in the brushless. So does anyone know if the GTB 4 cell 10.5 would be competative in 1/12 mod or what other system should I look into.

Thanks again
The GTB 10.5 is a good starting point.
You can upgrade to a hotter motor at a later point if that is needed.
I've personally run a novak 5.5 bonded in my 12th scale, which already was serious overkill. One friend of mine tried a 3.5. Totally insane and completely useless.

For the record: a 10th pancar with 6 cells and a 3.5 is fun! Can you say chase a 1/8th nitro on the straight (and overtake in the first corner after the straight) LOL
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:06 AM   #26800
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Thanks for the info guys. Me and Bob Stormer have had a couple good battlles in 1/10 pan car open. He beat me both times running a 19t and I was running a Mamba 5700. I was faster but he was more consistant.
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:44 AM   #26801
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Thanks for the info guys. Me and Bob Stormer have had a couple good battlles in 1/10 pan car open. He beat me both times running a 19t and I was running a Mamba 5700. I was faster but he was more consistant.
Joerocket - Since you run 1/10 scale pan cars, you might consider coming down for the Hobby Town Classic on September 15/16 to Denver. We run 235 pan cars 19 turn (10.5 or 4300 BL) 6 cell and should have 10-16 cars (if previous damage can be repaired)

It is fun passing a nitro touring car on the straight and then heading off into the sun set, if you know what I mean!
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:46 AM   #26802
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Joerocket & Bob Stormer- Since you run 1/10 scale pan cars, you might consider coming down for the Hobby Town Classic on September 15/16 to Denver. We run 235 pan cars 19 turn (10.5 or 4300 BL) 6 cell and should have 10-16 cars (if previous damage can be repaired)

It is fun passing a nitro touring car on the straight and then heading off into the sun set, if you know what I mean!
FYI - we are also starting a club track for carpet racing that will have enough size to run the 1/10 cars on as well (60' x 120') First race November 9th.
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:58 AM   #26803
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FYI - we are also starting a club track for carpet racing that will have enough size to run the 1/10 cars on as well (60' x 120') First race November 9th.
Gotta get me that racing schedule. Especially for us on-road Riverton guys. I just picked up my 1st on-road cars this summer. So I'd definitely be interested.

Paul
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:25 AM   #26804
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There's some REAL talent/FAST guys in Grenade's group...not real sure why the let him race with them. Oh yeah, THAT'S why the B-main was invented

A few of us went down for their 2-day last March and were suitably impressed. Thank goodness for 19T classes 'cause we weren't even CLOSE to pace in Stock with those baracudas.

REALLY fast. And fun. We're looking forward to next March.

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Old 08-31-2007, 09:33 AM   #26805
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Slow Guy

That is a great explaination of how it works in your neck of the woods, thanks!

PS I'm still gonna kick yer ass in the diff challenge
I'm practicing!
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