R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-29-2007, 09:04 PM   #26776
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

what the hell? page 3!!!! we need to get this thread moving again.heres a pic of my car with my brushless gear in it.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-brushless-layout.jpg  
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 12:23 AM   #26777
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
what the hell? page 3!!!! we need to get this thread moving again.heres a pic of my car with my brushless gear in it.
It's all your fault, you are spending too much time on that damn DB12R thread
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 12:49 AM   #26778
Tech Fanatic
 
tpczx6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

hey OD
I bet you can help him with hiw wires













Just messing with you Protc3
__________________
RcAmerica--Xray---Hudy----KO PROPO USA---ORCA---GRAVITY RC
Motiv------Apexrc-----
SWEEP Racing USA
Mike's Hobbyshop in Dallas
Nor-Cal Hobbies [The Race Place]
tpczx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 08:27 AM   #26779
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Deux-Montagnes , Qc.
Posts: 360
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default receiver

Hi ,can you tell me what I can do for use a Futaba R603FF receiver that is need 6Volt for work if I use it in a 1/12 genX with 4cell 4.8V configuration?

Thank you,Alain.
Alain Patry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 08:50 AM   #26780
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain Patry View Post
Hi ,can you tell me what I can do for use a Futaba R603FF receiver that is need 6Volt for work if I use it in a 1/12 genX with 4cell 4.8V configuration?

Thank you,Alain.
i run a 603FS rx in my 1/12 with out a cap or a rx pack. wouldn't figure that the two are too much different except the second antenna
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 02:23 PM   #26781
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta
Posts: 366
Default 1/12 BL System

I am just bought my first 1/12. Our club runs 1/12 mod. I want to get a brushless system for it and would like to know which system is recommended. I was leaning toward the Novak GTB 4 cell 10.5 but wasn't sure if that will be fast enough for 1/12 mod.

Thanks
JoeRocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 03:03 PM   #26782
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
It's all your fault, you are spending too much time on that damn DB12R thread
Isn't Adrian suppose to answer the questions on that thread while he is suppose to be making the kits. Which leaves him no time to be on the threads.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 03:39 PM   #26783
Tech Fanatic
 
b-man777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: MA.
Posts: 924
Default 1/12th onroad racing usa vs. rest of world

hey there:Quick question for y'all.Was just woundering why europe and japan run their 12th onroad and tc nationals as seperate events and not at same event like the usa does?Is it because one class gets so many entries they need seperate events or do they feel that each class needs it's own type of track set up?With 12th onroad getting more popular in the usa do you see seperate events for 12th onroad and tc nationals here any time soon why or why not?Just my thoughts please post your thoughts on this thanks
b-man777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 03:45 PM   #26784
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRocket View Post
I am just bought my first 1/12. Our club runs 1/12 mod. I want to get a brushless system for it and would like to know which system is recommended. I was leaning toward the Novak GTB 4 cell 10.5 but wasn't sure if that will be fast enough for 1/12 mod.
Do yourself a HUGE favor and DON'T jump straight into Mod unless that is all that is run at your club.

Spend some time learning to set up and drive the car. You will get nothing but frustration, like many before you, and pack it in while proclaiming "1/12 SUCKS!!".

If your club races a Stock class, enter it. If you want to be a leg-up on everyone else start out with a Tamiya silver can motor. This frees the car up UNBELIEVEABLY and you can learn to drive it, maintaining speed as you concentrate on hitting your lines. Our experience with a silver can is it is almost EXACTLY a lap down in a stock race with decent drivers on both cars, but someone starting out in 1/12 will actually be faster with the silver can than with a stock motor. I've seen ONE guy ever that took to 1/12 with a stock motor and was fairly competitive from the get go.

What you will find is that unlike TC these cars are VERY responsive to set-up changes, either those made intentionally on your bench or those made accidentally hitting the boards.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 05:50 PM   #26785
Tech Apprentice
 
Matt Pocknell's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 88
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by b-man777 View Post
hey there:Quick question for y'all.Was just woundering why europe and japan run their 12th onroad and tc nationals as seperate events and not at same event like the usa does?Is it because one class gets so many entries they need seperate events or do they feel that each class needs it's own type of track set up?With 12th onroad getting more popular in the usa do you see seperate events for 12th onroad and tc nationals here any time soon why or why not?Just my thoughts please post your thoughts on this thanks
In the UK we have the TC nationals (outdoor) over a series across the summer, then the same for 1/12 indoors in the winter. We dont have flat enough tracks to run 1/12 outdoors, and TC is best run outdoors, so the series' are separated. I think its a good method because it allows us to concentrate on one class at a time.
Matt Pocknell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 06:14 PM   #26786
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 485
Default

Scottrik - Thanks for this advice. As i'm on my way to re-enter rc after some years off! This is THE advice for 1:12 newb!

You said Tamiya silver can motor, the one in the tamiya kit, the so famous mabushi 540, right?? As I refresh an RC12L3 - see some posts above - I have to order some parts (some on the way), including a spur gear. May I use a 48dp or 64dp? What number of teeth? The same for pinion as - guessing - the pinion must be changed when tire diameter goes down!

I had to order a bodyshell too. RCSteve93 explain the difference between each shell, so I guess have a go with a Parma Speed8 or a Protoform Speed 12b, in thick version, not the lightweight!

Any other advice like so is highly welcome to avoid any frustration and so on! Cheers

Also, does anyone get some action pictures for 1:12 cars? a website, a link ...
Arn0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 06:19 PM   #26787
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

As far as gearing, it 100% depends on roll-out. And a "straight" 12L3 can't run tires as small as more modern cars do unless you pick up lowered pods and lowered front arms.

With the silver can figure 58-60mm roll-out on a moderate size somewhat technical track. The car would run more than 12 minutes (maybe 15) on good 4200's. This is also a very "free" car, so ymmv.

Scottrik
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 06:29 PM   #26788
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 485
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
As far as gearing, it 100% depends on roll-out. And a "straight" 12L3 can't run tires as small as more modern cars do unless you pick up lowered pods and lowered front arms.

With the silver can figure 58-60mm roll-out on a moderate size somewhat technical track. The car would run more than 12 minutes (maybe 15) on good 4200's. This is also a very "free" car, so ymmv.

Scottrik
ymmv?? sorry don't know this one!!

The 12L3 won't be straight, it's used (obviously) but I'll change the rear axle for a L4 or CRC one (don't like the mechanical design of the L3 rear axle). For ride height, it'll be straight, the main objective is to get the thumbs back, getting the line, driving slow but clean at least. Lowered pods and lowered front arms will be the next move, depending the first step!

Thanks Scottrik!

Just found the Pama website and I get confused with the Speed 8! There is 2 Speed 8: the Exp Speed 8 and the Speed 8 HD!!!!!! Which one is for stock?
Arn0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 07:48 PM   #26789
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Just found the Pama website and I get confused with the Speed 8! There is 2 Speed 8: the Exp Speed 8 and the Speed 8 HD!!!!!! Which one is for stock?
Speed 8 (not HD) for stock
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2007, 08:47 PM   #26790
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,168
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to joey
Default

can someone help me out with a rollout im using a 13.5 sintered on a small track..
__________________
=Joe Wright=
joey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:00 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0