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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-20-2007, 01:44 AM   #26746
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That was just for a roller but now im considering just racing my Team Associated TC4
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:43 AM   #26747
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Originally Posted by Kanzai View Post
Hey guys,

I'm looking at getting into 1/12 Racing. Now, i want a decent car thats cheap but goes well. I have around $200aud to splash around and i'll need a car that price with postage.


Any help would be great!
I would recommend a Trinity Black Widow, its only US$5 more then the Team Associated RC12L4 and is a much better kit,
comes with treaded front stub axles, alloy pod bulkheads on both sides, damper tubes and my kit came with 2 chassis

You can get it from rcmart posted to Sydney for US$220, with the current conversion it comes to AU$275
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:20 PM   #26748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My IRS clamping hub cracked right where the screw head is on the clamping screw...the first time I used it. The new CRC clamping hub has the slot at a slightly different angle so it has a bit more meat where the clamping screw is. My IRS one still works fine even with the crack but I replaced it with a CRC one anyway.
Was it the clamping hub that came with a 12L4? If yes, those are not IRS hubs.
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:27 PM   #26749
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RC12L4 Clamping Left Hub - Picture not from AE!


It looks different from the IRS, "square" end for the AE, round end for the IRS!

A question regarding bearing: on a RC12L3, there is 1 ball bearing in the right hub, on the RC12L4, 2 ball bearings on the same hub. Why adding a bearing near the diff? Should the diff won't stand the load or that allows to reduce the load adding a bearing?

Got another one, but can't remember right know... so later!
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:51 PM   #26750
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Originally Posted by BBSpence View Post
Was it the clamping hub that came with a 12L4? If yes, those are not IRS hubs.
Nope...wasn't that one.
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:53 PM   #26751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
RC12L4 Clamping Left Hub - Picture not from AE!


It looks different from the IRS, "square" end for the AE, round end for the IRS!

A question regarding bearing: on a RC12L3, there is 1 ball bearing in the right hub, on the RC12L4, 2 ball bearings on the same hub. Why adding a bearing near the diff? Should the diff won't stand the load or that allows to reduce the load adding a bearing?

Got another one, but can't remember right know... so later!
That is odd...I thought I remember mine having a bearing but looking at the instruction manual it sure doesn't show one. On mine though I used an unflanged bearing on the inside so the hub would have better alignment.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:05 PM   #26752
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FYI

Anyone looking for a Futaba S9602 12th scale servo..............



http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...00#post3598700


Thanks.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:11 PM   #26753
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send it my way eric
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:19 PM   #26754
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Originally Posted by insideline View Post
Save some money a get a great diff here;

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4220

Large D ring diff with both hubs for $45. The large D is quite a bit better than the smaller D ring diff.
Hi Guys,

Just browsing through the 1:12th forum and I thought I would jump in with some clarifications...

From the post on this forum, I noticed the picture of the complete diff was not up to date. With that in mind, we just updated the web site. The picture of the 4220 (red) shows what is currently included in our complete diff. The super lightweight left hub is now included as well as the lightened rings.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/images/em...edia/52158.jpg

Jason, thanks for the nice words regarding the T-Fource. Your new machine looks good as well, keep up the good work. It is nice to see 1/12th scale getting some well deserved attention. Also, just an FYI, in addition to the hubs and diff rings, CRC manufactures it's own 1:12th and 1:10th SS rear axles for our line of pan cars as well as supplying them OEM to other mfgs.

Frank Calandra
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:24 PM   #26755
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Hi Guys,
The super lightweight left hub is now included as well as the lightened rings.
Very cool Frank!
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:25 PM   #26756
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ah,thats cool.i didnt know you were doing your own axles.i knew the about the hubs but not the axles. it really is cool to see 1/12th making a strong comeback. with all of the new developemnts,things are really going to come together for the class. thanks for the compliments on the new car.now i see what a pain in the ass it is to get it all organized. im having a real good time doing it though.alot of work but i think it will just get easier.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:28 PM   #26757
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BTW frank,your new hubs are much nicer than the older ones.those are very nice looking
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:28 PM   #26758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
That is odd...I thought I remember mine having a bearing but looking at the instruction manual it sure doesn't show one. On mine though I used an unflanged bearing on the inside so the hub would have better alignment.
My previous message was a bit confusing! The picture shows a RC12L4 left hub to compare with the IRS! The question is related to the other side of the axle, the right hub! RC12L4 Manual shows 2 bearings and on the RC12L3, there is one... !! So my question!

Frank.. (better Mr Calandra???), the link for the large resolution picture wasn't updated!
Why the diff plates get this "strange" inside shape? D ring allows the lock in rotation the diff plate/ring, here I don't understand!!
Other than silver, red and blue, is there any other color? Just curiosity!

Last edited by Arn0; 08-20-2007 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:40 PM   #26759
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My previous message was a bit confusing! The picture shows a RC12L4 left hub to compare with the IRS! The question is related to the other side of the axle, the right hub! RC12L4 Manual shows 2 bearings and on the RC12L3, there is one... !! So my question!

Frank.. (better Mr Calandra???), the link for the large resolution picture wasn't updated!
Why the diff plates get this "strange" inside shape? D ring allows the lock in rotation the diff plate/ring, here I don't understand!!
Other than silver, red and blue, is there any other color? Just curiosity!
Yeah I know...I was talking about the diff side hub not the one pictured.
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:03 PM   #26760
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Why the diff plates get this "strange" inside shape? D ring allows the lock in rotation the diff plate/ring, here I don't understand!!
These still lock in. If you look at the left diff ring, you can see a little hook on the left and bottom "tabs". These work just like a standard D ring, but they have had the extra material removed so that they are lighter.
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