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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-17-2007, 04:40 PM   #26731
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Thanks for those first comments and advices!

So left clamping hub will fit the original L3 rear axle BUT Diff plate are later if I understood well! I did notice some difference with the drawing, the L3 get Round diff rings as the L4 get D-shape diff ring but haven't notice the larger diameter, thanks then!

For the thrust bearing, it's more regarding the state-of-art in machanics and perhaps some reduce maintenance in this area than other thing. A search give this message http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=6011 with some explanation. Also found Mark Payne blog with some explanation, that help! I probably manufacture a part and buy a thrust bearing to the job!

I assume tires choice seems relevant! There is various manufacturers but color code will be almost the same?

If other advice, welcome they are!!
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Old 08-17-2007, 05:07 PM   #26732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Thanks for those first comments and advices!

So left clamping hub will fit the original L3 rear axle BUT Diff plate are later if I understood well! I did notice some difference with the drawing, the L3 get Round diff rings as the L4 get D-shape diff ring but haven't notice the larger diameter, thanks then!

For the thrust bearing, it's more regarding the state-of-art in machanics and perhaps some reduce maintenance in this area than other thing. A search give this message http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=6011 with some explanation. Also found Mark Payne blog with some explanation, that help! I probably manufacture a part and buy a thrust bearing to the job!

I assume tires choice seems relevant! There is various manufacturers but color code will be almost the same?

If other advice, welcome they are!!
You will probably be better off to buy a whole new rear Axle from IRS, it will have a Clamping left hub and the larger Diff rings, http://www.teamirsrc.com/axles.html IRS2132 $57.95. I would get that before a Thrust Bearing, Thrust Bearings are great, but IMO a new axle that uses Large D rings is more important, plus I am not sure how easy it will be to find parts for that old of an axle, but I know it is easy to find parts for an axle that uses Large Diff Rings. Just something to think about
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Old 08-18-2007, 09:54 PM   #26733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Thanks for those first comments and advices!

So left clamping hub will fit the original L3 rear axle BUT Diff plate are later if I understood well! I did notice some difference with the drawing, the L3 get Round diff rings as the L4 get D-shape diff ring but haven't notice the larger diameter, thanks then!
Save some money a get a great diff here;

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4220

Large D ring diff with both hubs for $45. The large D is quite a bit better than the smaller D ring diff.
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:14 AM   #26734
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Hi guys,

I'm just looking for some setup tips for my 12L4 to be run on asphalt. I've found a few carpet racing set ups, but i know very little about the 1/12 cars, so not sure if these setups are useful or not to me?

Any help would be great!

Nathan
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Old 08-19-2007, 05:56 AM   #26735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NT View Post
Hi guys,

I'm just looking for some setup tips for my 12L4 to be run on asphalt. I've found a few carpet racing set ups, but i know very little about the 1/12 cars, so not sure if these setups are useful or not to me?

Any help would be great!

Nathan
Here you may have some tips: http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
I found also this site http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/ but it's not longer linked or something so!

What the difference - unless than price - between the IRS Diff and the CRC axle? Directly, I will say the D rings are different, larger on the CRC and all hardware provided. Diff balls in one case on in the others but any way diff balls must be purchase. Is there something more in term of maintenance, smoothness... ?

IRS Diff


CRC Diff
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:13 AM   #26736
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IRS has a large D-ring version as well. In silver, blue, or purple. Also I like the non-diff side better on the IRS. The round CRC one is a pain to get to clamp tight enough. But the newer 3 spoke CRC clamping hub I like better then the IRS. However I don't think you can get it in a rear axle kit.
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:13 AM   #26737
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the IRS axle and the crc on are the same axle.crc gets them from IRS.crc has there own hubs made.they are both very good axles,i just like the quality and look of the IRS hubs better.they will both work equally well.the IRS axle does come in colors also
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:20 AM   #26738
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My IRS clamping hub cracked right where the screw head is on the clamping screw...the first time I used it. The new CRC clamping hub has the slot at a slightly different angle so it has a bit more meat where the clamping screw is. My IRS one still works fine even with the crack but I replaced it with a CRC one anyway.
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Old 08-19-2007, 11:58 AM   #26739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My IRS clamping hub cracked right where the screw head is on the clamping screw...the first time I used it. The new CRC clamping hub has the slot at a slightly different angle so it has a bit more meat where the clamping screw is. My IRS one still works fine even with the crack but I replaced it with a CRC one anyway.
If you contact IRS I bet they will send you a new one. I have never heard of that happening before. I have one of those hubs that is 5 years old and has been on 5 different cars...lol!
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:26 PM   #26740
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Nah...I'm sure they are probably pretty good about that stuff but I was allready ordering a CRC one for my CRC car to replace the round one so I just ordered 2. Less hassle then dealing with an exchange.
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:59 PM   #26741
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Hey guys,

I'm looking at getting into 1/12 Racing. Now, i want a decent car thats cheap but goes well. I have around $200aud to splash around and i'll need a car that price with postage.


Any help would be great!

Last edited by Kanzai; 08-19-2007 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:21 PM   #26742
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for 200 or less you will need to go with a 12L4.for i think 220 you can get a crc T force which is basicly a L4 with alot of cool upgrades.
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Old 08-19-2007, 05:26 PM   #26743
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Originally Posted by Kanzai View Post
Hey guys,

I'm looking at getting into 1/12 Racing. Now, i want a decent car thats cheap but goes well. I have around $200aud to splash around and i'll need a car that price with postage.


Any help would be great!
Spend a extra 50 bucks and get the BMI DB12R! Will be WELL worth the extra money
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Old 08-19-2007, 05:33 PM   #26744
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200aud = $160

Are you expecting to get a complete car inc. electronics at that price or a good competitive roller chassis?
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Old 08-19-2007, 05:37 PM   #26745
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200aud = $160

Are you expecting to get a complete car inc. electronics at that price or a good competitive roller chassis?
oops

Well never mind then, Thats alot more money to dish out for a car
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