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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-15-2007, 08:44 AM   #26716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso View Post
For those 1s LiPo 1/12, what's the pack you using?
I ran two Maxamps receiver packs that I rewired in parallel. They were the 1290mah 2S3P packs. Maxamps might be willing to assemble them all in parallel as a saddle pack if you ask.

I'm going to rewire mine to be a 2 cell pack so that will give me almost 2600mAh. I'll have to gear accordingly and roll it to make time but it should be a rocket on the straight.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:58 AM   #26717
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Originally Posted by Unregistered View Post
I ran two Maxamps receiver packs that I rewired in parallel. They were the 1290mah 2S3P packs. Maxamps might be willing to assemble them all in parallel as a saddle pack if you ask.

I'm going to rewire mine to be a 2 cell pack so that will give me almost 2600mAh. I'll have to gear accordingly and roll it to make time but it should be a rocket on the straight.
parallel gives you amps serial gives you voltage so you as you rewired them in parallel you had 2580 at 3.6 volts and now if you wire it as a 2 cell pack it will be 7.2 volts at 1290.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:16 AM   #26718
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I rebuilt the cells last year making all 12 cells parallel. That's 5160 at 3.6v.

The pack numbers say 430 mAh but the cells sat 450 mAh.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:21 AM   #26719
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I spoke with Maxamps last week and they are willing to build packs for our needs. I was talking to someone about a 4 cell, 3.7v, saddle parallel pack with 20c cells (I think constant). It was somewhere around 4800 mah at about $50. This was what I was going to try initially. I also plan on buying a serial version of the same pack to test with higher turn BL motors. I want to try this with the Novak 10.5, 17.5 and a 21.5 when it becomes available. I know that the oval guys (BRL, Southwest Tour and Arizona Pan Car Racers) are adopting LiPo for their classes; all are specing the Orion 3200. The word is that the 17.5/3200 combo is equal in speed to the 10.5/4-cell cars and the hope is that the 21.5/3200 will give them the stock equivalent. They also run a mod class using the 10.5(4300)/3200 LiPo combo in open mod against BL and BR 4-cell cars and most of the mod racers in Arizona have switched to this combo. Interesting info as the BL in 1/12 vs. TC are very different and IMO I would think that what the oval guys are figuring out may be more applicable to 1/12 and another alternative to investigate.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:54 AM   #26720
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It seems we gonna have 2 major config on 1s LiPo for 1/12: 1s4p and 1s2p+2p saddle. They probably build with different LiPo cell since 1s4p can use a bigger footprint cell, where 1s2p+2p saddle's cell footprint need to be smaller.

I wonder if this causing performance different.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:46 PM   #26721
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Hi, guys!

I'm finally getting into brushless, but I can't decide which motor to take.. I want a 5.5T or 4.5T, allready got Novak's speedo. Orion, Novak, LRP..? And what would be the right gearing ratio, I wan't to buy in the right pinnions before the season
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:53 PM   #26722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Basicly everyone just chucks em when thay are too sm too run and buys new; in fact its hard to find just the donuts alone and I've never seen just the rims for sale anywhere. I just mounted a set last week, I applyed the contact cement to both surfaces and slid them on while both sides were still wet. It works but you have to be quick.

I have seen the wheels for sale on overseas shops... but if you price everything needed to mount your own wheels I think you will find it is cheaper now days to buy them ready to go....I am from the old days when you could get a bbig bag of dounuts from parma and the wheels and save a few bucks...
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:44 AM   #26723
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I have seen the wheels for sale on overseas shops... but if you price everything needed to mount your own wheels I think you will find it is cheaper now days to buy them ready to go....I am from the old days when you could get a bbig bag of dounuts from parma and the wheels and save a few bucks...
once you've done the process a few times it becomes cheaper, as you already have rims and glue and the truer.
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Old 08-16-2007, 01:09 AM   #26724
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Originally Posted by clinehobbies View Post
I have seen the wheels for sale on overseas shops... but if you price everything needed to mount your own wheels I think you will find it is cheaper now days to buy them ready to go....I am from the old days when you could get a bbig bag of dounuts from parma and the wheels and save a few bucks...

That's true...however the rim I prefer comes with pre-trued tires that are smaller then what I would like...so I have to mount my own to get what I want.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:10 AM   #26725
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Hi, guys!

I'm finally getting into brushless, but I can't decide which motor to take.. I want a 5.5T or 4.5T, allready got Novak's speedo. Orion, Novak, LRP..? And what would be the right gearing ratio, I wan't to buy in the right pinnions before the season
I would go with the 5.5. Roll it out to a 2.3. It is plenty fast enough! Also I have no problem making time with it. In my opinion the 4.5 is almost to fast!

Have fun

Travis
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:11 AM   #26726
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I'm sorry 1.3
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:44 PM   #26727
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Hi Everyone,

I acquired a RC12L3 some time ago to re-enter RC. It is stock! I get the manual for this car as well as for the L4 and a Yokomo very similar to the two previously mentioned.

The first point is to refresh the car! It is used but in good condition, all bearing, diff plate and ball diff need to be replace by new ones, as well as the spur gear.

As I checked how this little thing were designed, I point out 2 things:
1- the left hub is not clamp but screwed and counter-screwed with a plastic lock. I guess I can purchase a left hub from a L4 or similar for another brand but need some confirmation about that!

2- On the right hub, there is a ball bearing pressurized by a cone to tight the differential and that seems weird to me as a ball bearing is designed to support radial force and a bit of axial load. I plan to use a thrust bearing. Anyone get any information about the use of a thrust bearing here? Dimensions and more...
As I did a bit of homework prior to this message, I read (cheers Parma) Purple front tire & Grey rear tire seems to be a good starting point as setup, right??

For a bodyshell, 4-5 seems available but this parameter is fairly important so which one is good for a newbie in 1:12 scale pan car??

Got also questions regarding electronics devices! What steering servo keeping in mind the 'newbie' parameter? I saw a decent Futaba but then, what do you use? In term of radio, a personal choice will be a mid-range stick radio but few seems to exist those days!! Mid-range as it seems to be a good mix about price, quality and adjustment, stick radio because afraid to smash the trigger when driving!!!

Other than that, every advice is highly welcome.

Maybe more questions later! Thanks for inputs, mainly on the car, first thing first!
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:46 PM   #26728
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Yes, you can use a L4 left side hub (it's an IRS). The entire axle setup isn't all that expensive if I remember.

The thrust is set-up this way still. Slapmaster has a real thrust bearing that some people swear by but I still run the stock set-up.

For bodies, I pretty much always end up running the Parma Speed8. Just seems to work the best for me.

The Futaba or KO 12th servo's work great. I'm still running a Futaba 9602.
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:03 PM   #26729
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Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
As I checked how this little thing were designed, I point out 2 things:[INDENT] 1- the left hub is not clamp but screwed and counter-screwed with a plastic lock. I guess I can purchase a left hub from a L4 or similar for another brand but need some confirmation about that!

2- On the right hub, there is a ball bearing pressurized by a cone to tight the differential and that seems weird to me as a ball bearing is designed to support radial force and a bit of axial load. I plan to use a thrust bearing. Anyone get any information about the use of a thrust bearing here?
I would get a new axle and hub assembly if memory serves me that older style will only use the small diff rings. Not the best way to go but if you decide to use it be sure and check this as most of the newer hubs are setup for the large diff rings. As was allready mentioned use the slapmaster thrust bearing; its not a requirment but you will like how smooth the diff is and how much more life you get out of the bearing.
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Old 08-17-2007, 07:40 AM   #26730
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yep, the large ring diff i the most needed option for L3. With this option part the car doesn't differ a lot from it's successor L4. I bought it here, but you can probably get it also in states (it's just more convient to ship from Asia in my region..)
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