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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-14-2007, 09:27 AM   #26701
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With single cell LiPo, the 10.5 will probably be closer to 19 turn speeds than a 5.5. I tried a 5.5 and it was quite a bit faster than 19.
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:46 AM   #26702
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Originally Posted by Unregistered View Post
Stock and mod 12th were both a driver's class 10 years ago but now, all you have to do is yank on the throttle and try not to hit anything.

Back in the day, the top drivers had to use a smooth throttle finger, good strategy, and a clean run to finish. It was the total package that won the race. If you hit another driver it hurt both of you. The racing was cleaner because it had to be.
The good old days... Nothing was more enjoyable pacing the leaders until the 7 minute mark and waiting to see who had conserved enough ripe to make the charge with 30 seconds to go...the higher capacity cells have taken race strategy out of the equation.

IMO, the batteries of today (4200's & 4800's MiMH) are a joke...in the north east, we had seen first hand, old school racers exiting electric racing because of the battery issue. The fact that the IB's are as delicate as 1700SCE is disappointing. Once Sanyo exited the RC battery market we were doomed. IMO: Best batteries I ever worked with were the 1700 SCRC's

We've actually seen a number of racers (those who are still around) switch from TC to 1/12th scale racing because of the simplicity. I strongly believe that if we can further simplify the racing we will see more racers returning to the track.

The same holds true in fuel on-road. Those heavily involved are from the older generation. Generation X and Y have little interest in racing. (take a look at the growing # in Masters Class). Most of us have family obligations which limits the amount of wrenching and racing we can do. I'd rather have more track time than pit wrenching....therefore any form of new technology (brushless) and maybe Lipo's which enhances track time over pit wrench time is going to be received well.

I'd like to see Lipo's develop for a modified class of racing - even if this means using the smaller brushless motors. Those who prefer the use of NiMh, can use them in stock and 19t.

just my thoughts.
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:59 AM   #26703
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Originally Posted by TMR CHASSIS View Post
Eric, are you going to be able to run the IIC warm up race in 2 weeks?

Yep, I'll be there.
E
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Old 08-14-2007, 03:40 PM   #26704
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Default mounting tyres

Hello,

Do any of you guys mount your own tyres on rims ? What products do you use with regard to adhesive and method.

I've been mounting some this evening and got to thinking if there was an easier/better wa to do it

cheers
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:05 PM   #26705
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Originally Posted by markrichards View Post
Hello,

Do any of you guys mount your own tyres on rims ? What products do you use with regard to adhesive and method.

I've been mounting some this evening and got to thinking if there was an easier/better wa to do it

cheers
When I was mounting my own stuff, it's been a few years I used laquer thinner and 3M Contact Cement. You'lou'll also need a tire horn and some sort of pan. I used to use a med pyrex backing dish for this.
1. Coat foam donughts with contact cement on the inside
2. Coat wheels with contact cement
3. Let these set-up for a few minutes.
4. Pour laquer thinner into your dish, 1/4" should be enough
5. Place wheel into laquer thinner getting the contact cement wet.
6. Place horn over rim
7. Roll your foam donught thru the laquer thinner, you want to get the inside a little wet.
8. Slide over horn onto the rim. The laquer thinner keeps everything wet so that the contact cement doesn't adhere before you get the donught over the rim.
9. Let them dry and true.

I used to do a whole seasons worth of 1/12 tires in a night. Usually 8-10 pairs each front and rears. Used to take a couple of hours to mount them.
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:12 PM   #26706
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Unfortunately I've been finding that since manufactuers have switched to using CA glue as an adhesive they don't design the plastic for the rim to be able to stand up to contact cement. I know the CRC rim melts in laquor thinner and unfortunately it is my favorite rim for 1/12th. So I've had to resort to using contact cement without laquor thinner to glue up the foams. Then to remove the old foam I use my tire truer and true it right down to the rim.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:19 PM   #26707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
The good old days... Nothing was more enjoyable pacing the leaders until the 7 minute mark and waiting to see who had conserved enough ripe to make the charge with 30 seconds to go...the higher capacity cells have taken race strategy out of the equation.

IMO, the batteries of today (4200's & 4800's MiMH) are a joke...in the north east, we had seen first hand, old school racers exiting electric racing because of the battery issue. The fact that the IB's are as delicate as 1700SCE is disappointing. Once Sanyo exited the RC battery market we were doomed. IMO: Best batteries I ever worked with were the 1700 SCRC's

We've actually seen a number of racers (those who are still around) switch from TC to 1/12th scale racing because of the simplicity. I strongly believe that if we can further simplify the racing we will see more racers returning to the track.

The same holds true in fuel on-road. Those heavily involved are from the older generation. Generation X and Y have little interest in racing. (take a look at the growing # in Masters Class). Most of us have family obligations which limits the amount of wrenching and racing we can do. I'd rather have more track time than pit wrenching....therefore any form of new technology (brushless) and maybe Lipo's which enhances track time over pit wrench time is going to be received well.

I'd like to see Lipo's develop for a modified class of racing - even if this means using the smaller brushless motors. Those who prefer the use of NiMh, can use them in stock and 19t.

just my thoughts.
Carl, the bigger joke is the few who have tried 1/12 mod can't get the cars to last 8 minutes! Can you imagine racing at RC World with 4200's???!!!

Many people have given up on RC because the thinking part has been taken away. Now it's all about who can tune a stock motor the best. Everything now is point and shoot. No one thinks about what they're doing anymore.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:26 PM   #26708
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Unfortunately I've been finding that since manufactuers have switched to using CA glue as an adhesive they don't design the plastic for the rim to be able to stand up to contact cement. I know the CRC rim melts in laquor thinner and unfortunately it is my favorite rim for 1/12th. So I've had to resort to using contact cement without laquor thinner to glue up the foams. Then to remove the old foam I use my tire truer and true it right down to the rim.

Try actetone(sp) it worked better than laquor thinner back in the day for me.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:43 PM   #26709
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Acetone would work best on the CA glue they use today. Not sure how long ago they switched. Still if the rim can't stand up to laquor thinner chances are it won't to acetone eithe...I may have a couple extra rims to test that out on though.
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:56 PM   #26710
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Default melting

hmm, well i definately dont want to start melting my wheels ! Is is just not common practice to mount your own tires these days ?
surely everyone ends up with hundreds of wheels with ltra low tires if they are not recycled
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Old 08-14-2007, 10:28 PM   #26711
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Originally Posted by markrichards View Post
hmm, well i definately dont want to start melting my wheels ! Is is just not common practice to mount your own tires these days ?
surely everyone ends up with hundreds of wheels with ltra low tires if they are not recycled

Basicly everyone just chucks em when thay are too sm too run and buys new; in fact its hard to find just the donuts alone and I've never seen just the rims for sale anywhere. I just mounted a set last week, I applyed the contact cement to both surfaces and slid them on while both sides were still wet. It works but you have to be quick.
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Old 08-14-2007, 10:41 PM   #26712
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I get donuts from CRC and remount my own tires. I use my tire truer to true the tire right down to the rim. Then I use contact cement on the rim and tire and shove them together. If you don't wait for it to cure you won't need to dunk them in thinner. I find that if the rim is scuffed up well enough the glue holds really well this way.
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Old 08-15-2007, 01:48 AM   #26713
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For those 1s LiPo 1/12, what's the pack you using?

It seems to me 1100mAh 34x64x6mm 15C-consis cell, 1s4p would work best. Any other higher consis-discharge cell is going to be too big for 1/12. Any suggestion/idea?
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Old 08-15-2007, 02:43 AM   #26714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrichards View Post
Hello,

Do any of you guys mount your own tyres on rims ? What products do you use with regard to adhesive and method.

I've been mounting some this evening and got to thinking if there was an easier/better wa to do it

cheers
I was using tupentine (for thinning oil based paint) on my nitro rims works well you must leave them to dry out then the glue will set.

same process as schurcr just replace the thinners with turpentine or mineral turpentine. just a wipe inside the tire with turps and slide over the rim position then let dry out.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:41 AM   #26715
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