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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 03-30-2003, 04:57 AM   #2656
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Most of us use 6 cell chassis' with 4 cells. Also if they are having problems making 8 min. with 4 cells they must be doing something wrong , because I have made 8 min. with 2400's and a personnal transponder!! A 4 cell pan car is more efficient than it's 6 cell brother.....
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
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Old 03-30-2003, 06:24 AM   #2657
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Your batteries will actually last longer with 4 cells than 6. Because of the higher voltage with 6 cells you use more POWER or watts.

Watts = Volts X Amps

I run stock class for 8 minutes on a 40 X 80 track, I have 5 minutes of battery at 20 amps left over. This is with unmatched 3300s.

I can't see how I could harness 7.2 volts in a mod 1/12 scale on that track.

I am new at this 1/12 stuff, but sure love it.

Take apart 2 6 cell packs and you have 3 4 cell packs.

David Root.
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Old 03-30-2003, 06:32 AM   #2658
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Loius- Are they saying when you run a mod motor you wont make run time? if so on that track its probably true since you really need a gentle throttle finger to make run time. but if you are running a stock and 2 less cells then the rest (4 v. 6) then you should have alot more run time. However if 4 cells allows you to run a mod motor then if you need a little more power try running a 19t motor such as the chaemelion or the reedy 19t spec (but not a full mod, since you really have to know what you are doing to make run time on that track).

Also you dont need new packs to run 4 cell vs. 6, or even a new car. just disassemble or even just take off 2 cells from each pack and then viola, you have 4 cells. and if you take apart two 6 cell packs then you will have three 4 cell packs. So you will actually have more packs.

If your track was a complete highway and you didnt have a bunch of tight sections and quick switchbacks then i would say run a 6 cell car since the extra weight wouldnt really hurt you. However that track is PURE HANDLING, and a 4 cell cars handles much better than a 6 just due to the less mass and thus less inertia which allows you to change direction much quicker.
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Old 03-30-2003, 08:50 AM   #2659
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Thanks everyone

I'm going to get a new car anyway so I'll go for a 6 cell if it makes no difference. I'll probably rebuild a couple of packs to 4 cell for next season and get a 19 turn (or similar) motor.

stormerperson, I'm not sure what motors they were running, they could have been too low.
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Old 03-30-2003, 01:39 PM   #2660
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There is no doubt that you can run a 7 single on that track, and not dump, its just a matter of skill.

Right now most cars are actually only 4 cell cars (except for the AE and CRC 6 pack, which are both t-bar cars, and the roadkill, but i am not sure about avialbility, since no one runs 6 cell anymore), the new yokomo, the trinity, crc carpet knife, speedmerchant rev. 3, corrally, etc are all 4. about half of those cars (rev. 3, trinity, yok) you can adjust the position of the batts within a quarter of an inch, which is all you would reall want to, however with the 6 cell cars you have to run the batteries in back (unless you want race Richard Burns style, which is kinda difficult in 12th, lol). Also you can place the batteries closer to the center with a 4 cell car which is an advantage as well (and its magnified on a track like yours).

Here is what i would suggest:

-Rev. 3 w/ the v-force (if you can get them) and with some minor modifacations you can adjust wheelbase (just dremel off some of the arm and shim it forward or back, however make sure that your ackerman remains correct). and i would run the trinity Chaemelion 1 motor (i have dyno'd and run both the 1 and 2's and the 1 is better). I would run soft rear tires like pinks or whites, or maybe TRC granites and then magenta front's, or maybe TRC cyans.

and slam the car as low as possible (like 1.5 or 2mm) you will rub a little, however the lower the CG the easier it is for the car to transition. I would also recommend a 12 ball stiff (standard diffs are 6 or 8 ball) which will keep you from burning up diffs from the heavy accerlation on that track. Also run a protoform ascari body (while that track is really slow and aero doesnt make a huge difference, every litlte bit helps) since it has the most downforce out of every body out there right now.

I dont remember if you can run 3300's or not, however if you arent dumping with 3000's stay with them instead of going with 3300's, since the 33's are slightly heavier, and wieght is your enemy is your main enemy on that track.
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Old 03-30-2003, 02:42 PM   #2661
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Thanks very much for all the tips!

I'm getting 4 packs of 33s (6 cell) soon for TC and off-road. I currently run 3 2400s and one pack of 3000s. I really need the 33s for TC mod which goes on all year round, as does off-road. I don't think it would be practical to rebuild the packs before and after every 1/12th meeting so I'd have to either use 2400s and a 3000 or buy more packs just for 1/12th. I might be able to stretch to that and i have some time to save up.

I can't get any speedmerchant cars over here but if I stock up on the usual spares I should be OK. None of the 4 cell only cars are easy to get over here so the Rev 3 should be fine.

Currently we all run UFRA pink soft rears and pink medium fronts. With 6 cell people have tried white rears but the wear VERY quickly, the problem should be much less with 4 cell. I'll look into suitable tires.

I already run my Corally as low as it can go, and it runs well so I'll stick with a nice low rideheight.

I've got 6 months or so to get sorted
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Old 03-30-2003, 02:50 PM   #2662
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And here's my ancient, 3rd hand Corally G2
Attached Images
File Type: jpg g2.jpg (161.7 KB, 80 views)
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Old 03-30-2003, 03:49 PM   #2663
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Does 4 cell mod have a min weight limit? and what is it?
12th Scale - The premier class (if you can make runtime)
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Old 03-30-2003, 05:04 PM   #2664
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i think its like 27 oz or something like that, check the roar rulebook (i am 99% sure its the same for ifmar).

loius- one thing just looking at that car i would suggest doing is using like 14 guage or 16 guage wire to go to the motor instead of the thick stock stuff. on a 12th scale since the wires have to go accross the suspenion, the wire acts as a spring which can mess up tweak (slightly, but it is noticable).

I would suggest picking up a pack of GP's (they are only like $50 in the US), they are wicked cheap, the 3k's cost more normally.

If you can find a hobby shop in the area to stock speedmerchant stuff. i dont think that they have a UK distributor though.
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Old 03-30-2003, 05:13 PM   #2665
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1/12 newbie here: are you guys familiar with the white teflon disks used for tamiya F103? will they fit the RC12L? one more question - can i mount a standard size steering servo flat on the chassis using one servo mount on one hole and double sided tape on the chassis? i dont want to drill another hole for the servo mount and i was wondering if there will be a difference in handling if i mounted it that way. thanks for any info
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Old 03-30-2003, 05:35 PM   #2666
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Originally posted by stormperson
i think its like 27 oz or something like that, check the roar rulebook (i am 99% sure its the same for ifmar).
Wow that works out to be 767 grams, that is very light, is it possible to get a car down to the limit.

I just got a Corally SP12M and it weighs in at 884grams with a 4 cell 3000HV pack. without a receiver pack. i dont know if it is possible ot get a hundred grams out of it.
12th Scale - The premier class (if you can make runtime)
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Old 03-30-2003, 07:47 PM   #2667
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put a tiny speedie and a small ko reciver in pick up a ligh body not one of those frewer racing ones and i think you might be on your way

does it have that big novak speedie in it
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Old 03-30-2003, 07:52 PM   #2668
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Arrow 1/12 weights

From 1998 ROAR rule book. It may have changed but I dont think so.
4 CELL MIN. 28oz.
6 CELL MIN. 32oz.
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:01 AM   #2669
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does anyone know if the yokomo mrtc-md is any good and if so where can i get one?
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Old 03-31-2003, 01:24 AM   #2670
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Has anyone compared their lap times with 1/10th touring?

At the last race I ran .4 to .6 seconds slower a lap in 1/12th 4cell open than I do in touring mod. I was told by a few racers that 1/12th lap times should be faster than mod touring.

I'm a bit curious on how other people do when comparing times.

Last edited by safaridog; 03-31-2003 at 01:48 AM.
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