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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-12-2007, 12:07 AM   #26656
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I don't know of any esc that you need to do that with. If you do the reciever pack will only operate the servo and reciever, and you will need to use the esc switch to turn on the esc. With the red wire connected the reciever pack will turn on the esc, servo and reciever. Post which esc you are using and someone who has specific experience with it will chime in

i am using the vfs1
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:27 AM   #26657
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alright 12th guys, we need to talk...

...about lipo

I would really love to race 12th this coming indoor season, but won't be if I have to run packs that I have to monitor like a baby. and thus, you thoughts

my thoughts:
would rather run two cell so that I can still use my GTB (voltage cut-off) and not have to run a receiver pack. but then we run into problems: if a 12th stock car on 4 cells is faster then a tc stock on six cells, how fast will the 12th stock be with six cells? I am guessing somewhere around a 15 turn motor, which is a little much for me. I see that novak has a new 17.5 motor which may drop that 4cell equivalent.

also, if we are to "agree" on a type of pack, it would have to be able to fit in both saddle and straight chassis. May or may not be a big deal
LiPo is not legal yet for any sanctioned race, so it doesn't matter. If you are only concerned about the local track then take it up with the track owner.
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:31 AM   #26658
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i am using the vfs1

I've wired up a few of those but not with a reciever pack. Maybe someone who has can help.
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:40 AM   #26659
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LiPo is not legal yet for any sanctioned race, so it doesn't matter. If you are only concerned about the local track then take it up with the track owner.
Ruben takes forever to reply to my PMs

Besides, when has brushless in stock been legal? that didn't seem to stop you from jumping into the brushless bandwagon
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Old 08-12-2007, 07:22 AM   #26660
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Originally Posted by smojoe View Post
alright 12th guys, we need to talk...

...about lipo

I would really love to race 12th this coming indoor season, but won't be if I have to run packs that I have to monitor like a baby. and thus, you thoughts

my thoughts:
would rather run two cell so that I can still use my GTB (voltage cut-off) and not have to run a receiver pack. but then we run into problems: if a 12th stock car on 4 cells is faster then a tc stock on six cells, how fast will the 12th stock be with six cells? I am guessing somewhere around a 15 turn motor, which is a little much for me. I see that novak has a new 17.5 motor which may drop that 4cell equivalent.

also, if we are to "agree" on a type of pack, it would have to be able to fit in both saddle and straight chassis. May or may not be a big deal
Its going to be tough to figure out what BL motor to run. To keep it inexpensive at first I would suggest running a silver 540 Mabuchi motor. With 2 cell LiPo you will probably still be faster than 4 cell NiMh stock.

More people are testing 1 cell LiPo (actually 2 2000 or 2200 cells in parallel to get 4000-4400mah) and run a more agressive motor like a 10.5 to 5.5 to get the speed back up depending on what speed that want.

Josh Cyrul told me a guy at his track is running 1 cell LiPo with a 3.5 in Mod 1/12th and he is just as fast as the 4 cell NiMh guys running 9-10T BR or 5.5 BL.
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:59 AM   #26661
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Originally Posted by smojoe View Post
alright 12th guys, we need to talk...

...about lipo

I would really love to race 12th this coming indoor season, but won't be if I have to run packs that I have to monitor like a baby. and thus, you thoughts

my thoughts:
would rather run two cell so that I can still use my GTB (voltage cut-off) and not have to run a receiver pack. but then we run into problems: if a 12th stock car on 4 cells is faster then a tc stock on six cells, how fast will the 12th stock be with six cells? I am guessing somewhere around a 15 turn motor, which is a little much for me. I see that novak has a new 17.5 motor which may drop that 4cell equivalent.

also, if we are to "agree" on a type of pack, it would have to be able to fit in both saddle and straight chassis. May or may not be a big deal
Sorry, but we don't need to talk. We do not need to agree to anything. 12th is a great class because it is stable, and the advent of LiPo is of interest to TC and Off-Road, but not to 12th. Our numbers are rising fast, and no one wants to have the conversation about LiPo.

If you are worried about NiMh cells being finicky, then buy EP cells, and learn to drive better to make up the difference you will find in speed, or race a 3.5 BL and have no issues with speed.

Stop thinking about LiPo, it won't find much support around the 12th scene. It is expensive for people who have invested a lot of money in NiMh. The attraction of 12th is that you can use a 19T motor and any cells and make an A final if you are any good. 12th is about driving, not equipment, and that's why we don't need to talk about LiPo. We need to talk about BL, but that's another story... HTH
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:36 AM   #26662
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Sorry, but we don't need to talk. We do not need to agree to anything. 12th is a great class because it is stable, and the advent of LiPo is of interest to TC and Off-Road, but not to 12th. Our numbers are rising fast, and no one wants to have the conversation about LiPo.

If you are worried about NiMh cells being finicky, then buy EP cells, and learn to drive better to make up the difference you will find in speed, or race a 3.5 BL and have no issues with speed.

Stop thinking about LiPo, it won't find much support around the 12th scene. It is expensive for people who have invested a lot of money in NiMh. The attraction of 12th is that you can use a 19T motor and any cells and make an A final if you are any good. 12th is about driving, not equipment, and that's why we don't need to talk about LiPo. We need to talk about BL, but that's another story... HTH
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and it is in my opinion that you are wrong.

lipo may not be the future, but the future for Ni based cells doesn't look good. Unless the guys you race with agree on what cells to run, someone is going to show up with WCs with 1.24xV, whether the voltage is legit or bull. It may be that have wandered out of the 12th section because I have a touring car, but a large percentage of the good drivers have good equipment, so for us that have neither talent nor money, lipo looks good.

The old "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality only goes so far. If the world as we knew it stayed like that, I would be writing this on a stone tablet. It wouldn't be fun writing on a stone tablet, but I have no imagination for what could be better, and thus it is the best thing period. I have a problem with dishing out $100+ bucks twice a season to stay competitive. To me, the NiMH batteries of today are broken. I would break out the old GP 3700's but those were long ago put in a recycling box because I didn't think the next generation of cells would be junk. "Oh, mr. smojoe, but EPs aren't junk!" I could care less what people think about them; they are heavy, costly, and have a shelf life of meat left out of the refrigerator.

This is one 12th scale racer who is getting out of 12th because technology is labeled as "not needed." To which I say, got back to your dial-up internet and 64mb of ram
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:41 AM   #26663
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Ruben takes forever to reply to my PMs

Besides, when has brushless in stock been legal? that didn't seem to stop you from jumping into the brushless bandwagon
I didn't jump on any bandwagon. We ran brushless in Stock at the NWCC because it was clear that brushed stock motors would not be competetive wih the 13.5. After that we switched back to brushed motors for the most part, so get your facts straight.

FYI Ruben told me that he plans to allow LiPo this coming carpet season, so knock yourself out. I won't be running LiPo until that is the formula used at the big races, which I hope never happens
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:04 PM   #26664
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Smjoe and OD, yes I plan on running LiPo this winter. I've been talking to Josh as well and he gave me info on someone running 1S-2P(????) two packs in parallel for increased capacty running 3.7v and a receiver pack with a GTB & 3.5. Josh says speeds are the same as the 19/4-cell cars. LiPo/BL had a bit of an advantage thru the infield with the 19t/4-cell cars having the advantage on the straight. Sounds like a good starting point to me. Yet on the other hand the oval guys are going in the opposite direction running the Orion 3200 with the Novak 17.5 with the 10.5(4300)/4-cell cars with very good results. So the thought of a 2s-2p 7.4v saddle pack with the Novak 17.5 or even the 21.5 when comes available may be worth testing as well. As far as not talking about LiPo this is a free country and there are many people feed up with junk a$$ cells we've had to endure the last couple of years and LiPo may be a good alternative IMO. Yes the EP cells are better than the IB (IMO) but you still can only run them once a day, you still have to do discharge maintainance. The lure of LiPo is less work and as a race director/track owner who would like to be able to race more I welcome any idea that would make RC Racing less work. IMO the junk cells we've had to use the last few seasons are part of the reason for the decline in electric on-road racing. TC's have gotten wa comlicated in comparison to what we had 5-7 years ago. Some of the reason for the increase in 1/12 IMO.

Stephen ..... if you want to talk call me 209-481-2879.
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:27 PM   #26665
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JayBee, you have pm. I am looking for new IPs to buy if possible. Mine Have gone flat after 10 months.
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Old 08-12-2007, 01:06 PM   #26666
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my oppinion is never rule anything out until you try it.i will be trying out lipo shortly just to see how the cars work.on carpet im sure it will be fine with all of the traction but the true test is asphalt.limited traction will let us know if there is enough weight in the car to let it turn.i am all for new things if they work.i dont want to be walking backwards though.technology needs to always move forward and the only way to know is to try it out
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Old 08-12-2007, 01:07 PM   #26667
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I won't be running LiPo until that is the formula used at the big races, which I hope never happens
why you hope it never happens? (honest question, not rhetorical)

Ruben-
If you are thinking about allowing lipo in 12th then I will continue my research.
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Old 08-12-2007, 03:20 PM   #26668
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why you hope it never happens? (honest question, not rhetorical)
Well, I should never say "never" If there is a new formula that works better than the current one, then I would be for it. To change it just because you don't want to work on your car makes no sense to me. I've been racing 1/12th for a long time, from six cells, Igarashi motors, chassis mounted rear wings on up to the present; and the current cars with 05 motors and four 4200 cells are, IMO, the best balanced cars we've ever had

I agree with Jason that you have to try new stuff out, that's how you discover changes that can make the formula better. I just don't want to change the formula before any development takes place.
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Old 08-12-2007, 03:32 PM   #26669
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I guess all this thought of change coming from someone who has only been racing 12th for a season and a half is a little much then. But alas, I have never been one to follow the norm. You can tell because my signature doesn't say "Xray T2 007"

Jason/ protc3- You have a personal message
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Old 08-12-2007, 05:06 PM   #26670
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uhm i got a few questions on my 12th i am having problems when i am going on the staright away because it was bouncing around and i used the white springs for the 2 ones in the rear the ck 3.1 and i am using brownse springs in the rear. what do u think i should do. also should i get the big diff for my car.
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