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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-09-2007, 07:54 PM   #26641
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Carlos
Jason and everyone might have to come to Texas next March for a big race at Mike's more info as we get it.

hmmm
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:47 PM   #26642
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Ok fellow 1/12 scale racers, I need some help and input.

Our carpet track in Denver is closing next week. Not much notice and we were just starting to get warmed up for the winter.

Looking at the costs, a for profit track is not likely. There is a strong group of us that are looking at starting a club track. I have the barriers, computer, AMB system, house transponders, PA......all stuff but space and carpet.

Any clubs out there, do you rent space or use free space? Do you do anything with the space other than race R/C cars? Any thoughts???

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:00 PM   #26643
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Grenade 10,

Hey, sorry to hear about the loss of your track. That has happened in Mn here at least 4 times from what I can remember. There is an RC club in the Duluth/Superior area in the northern part of the state that either rents or has space donated by the local Armory. That might be an option, and they also have a fundraiser race to help out the armory. I don't have all the details, but check out their website, lsrcc.com and ask around. Good group of people, every time I have made the trip I have loved it. I am sure they will help ya out.

Dave
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:18 PM   #26644
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I am definitely looking forward to that race. I am already started to save money for that one. I hope Yang doesn't charge to much for rent for the week. I will have to figure out who to get batteries from for that race as well.
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:49 PM   #26645
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Grenade...sorry to hear that bud. A similar thing happened out here which is how I ended up running our local on-road electric race. We use the parking lot in front of one of the LHSs for free but given the winter in Denver I doubt that is going to work out for you. However our previous indoor track may work for you, it would have for us had someone not messed it up. We used a warehouse on a military base. There was a shop running it and the base charged them rent but it was highly discounted because having a track available for military members to race at was good entertainment for the troops and covered under the Navy MWR (Moral, welfare, and recreation). You may be able to swing something under MWR for free if you don't have a shop and/or run it as non-profit if you have a base close enough.
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:59 PM   #26646
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Grenade...sorry to hear that bud. A similar thing happened out here which is how I ended up running our local on-road electric race. We use the parking lot in front of one of the LHSs for free but given the winter in Denver I doubt that is going to work out for you. However our previous indoor track may work for you, it would have for us had someone not messed it up. We used a warehouse on a military base. There was a shop running it and the base charged them rent but it was highly discounted because having a track available for military members to race at was good entertainment for the troops and covered under the Navy MWR (Moral, welfare, and recreation). You may be able to swing something under MWR for free if you don't have a shop and/or run it as non-profit if you have a base close enough.
Thanks for the sugestion. Someone also has a track set up at a VFW hall, and they run one or two races and donate the funds to them! Both good ideas! Thanks!
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Old 08-09-2007, 10:02 PM   #26647
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Grenade 10,

Hey, sorry to hear about the loss of your track. That has happened in Mn here at least 4 times from what I can remember. There is an RC club in the Duluth/Superior area in the northern part of the state that either rents or has space donated by the local Armory. That might be an option, and they also have a fundraiser race to help out the armory. I don't have all the details, but check out their website, lsrcc.com and ask around. Good group of people, every time I have made the trip I have loved it. I am sure they will help ya out.

Dave
I'm a member of that club and currently everything is running very smoothly. The National Guard Armory space is donated which is very much appreciated. The first big race of the season is a fundraiser and I believe last years was pushing the $700 mark just with a little extra donation from entry fees and concessions. That covers any extra costs they may have for lighting during the winter and the storage space for the carpet and barriers.

If you have all the equipment already, minus carpet, by all means start up a club. The first round of dues could easily contribute to the purchase of carpet. Also just ask around to local establishments that have sufficient space that is empty at least one day a week. Something as simple as an elementary school gym, indoor volleyball or tennis courts, etc. We bring step ladders to stand on while driving. Also weekly setup of the track (~100x40) takes only about 30 minutes and maybe 10-15 to put it all away.
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:45 AM   #26648
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Keep in mind too...It doesn't have to be a carpet track! Our indoor track we had was actually concrete. With sugar water sprayed down for traction it was easy to get tons of grip.
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Old 08-10-2007, 08:54 AM   #26649
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As they mentioned earlier. Check places like organizations, etc that have large meeting areas.

Billings uses the Shriners' Hall to race in.

Here in Riverton, we're working with our rec center to get use of an old high school gym to race in during the winter months. (now I just need to get the carpet.)

Paul
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:18 PM   #26650
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As they mentioned earlier. Check places like organizations, etc that have large meeting areas.

Billings uses the Shriners' Hall to race in.

Here in Riverton, we're working with our rec center to get use of an old high school gym to race in during the winter months. (now I just need to get the carpet.)

Paul
Well your one up on us, as we need a space and the carpet. How do you plan on putting down the carpet??
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:31 PM   #26651
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I know many local churches would be willing to lend out the space.
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Old 08-10-2007, 02:08 PM   #26652
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I've done some conversations with the Billings (http://www.magiccityrc.com) group, and I think we'll put Masking tape on the floor, then duct tape the carpet to that. Similar for boards, etc. I'm not sure exactly how they do it, so this fall, once they start racing, I'm planning on taking a trip up there to see how it's done. (Also need boards, etc. to build track lanes).

This year, I think we're going to start small with a single 100'x12' cut in half, so that we can build a 50x24 track for stock purposes. Our on-road program isn't really that strong, even though we have a beautiful on-road oval with road course (road course is boring, but the oval is ohhh so nice)

We have the amb system obviously for our out-door racing program.

Paul
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:53 PM   #26653
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i am new to running a receiver pack, some have said i need to remove the red wire out of the plug on the speed control to the receiver is that true

any help would be cool

cheers
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Old 08-11-2007, 01:27 AM   #26654
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i am new to running a receiver pack, some have said i need to remove the red wire out of the plug on the speed control to the receiver is that true

any help would be cool

cheers
I don't know of any esc that you need to do that with. If you do the reciever pack will only operate the servo and reciever, and you will need to use the esc switch to turn on the esc. With the red wire connected the reciever pack will turn on the esc, servo and reciever. Post which esc you are using and someone who has specific experience with it will chime in
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Old 08-12-2007, 12:06 AM   #26655
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alright 12th guys, we need to talk...

...about lipo

I would really love to race 12th this coming indoor season, but won't be if I have to run packs that I have to monitor like a baby. and thus, you thoughts

my thoughts:
would rather run two cell so that I can still use my GTB (voltage cut-off) and not have to run a receiver pack. but then we run into problems: if a 12th stock car on 4 cells is faster then a tc stock on six cells, how fast will the 12th stock be with six cells? I am guessing somewhere around a 15 turn motor, which is a little much for me. I see that novak has a new 17.5 motor which may drop that 4cell equivalent.

also, if we are to "agree" on a type of pack, it would have to be able to fit in both saddle and straight chassis. May or may not be a big deal
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