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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-08-2007, 05:45 PM   #26626
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scales do work to set tweak but they will drive you nuts.it is extremely hard to perfectly tweak a car with the given variables.getting it extremely close is usually more than good enough.with all the varying weight of electronics,variance in spring length and tension and so on make it very difficult to get it perfect.IRS balance buttons,nickels,or MIP tweak station will work well.i use the balance buttons to get the electronics in the car balanced and then i check the tweak with the tweak station. scales will just get you frustrated as it does to me.
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:19 PM   #26627
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I've got a problem that maybe somebody can help me out with. I just got an RC12L3 and can't for the life of me get it to run in a straight line. If I get it rolling slowly it goes straight, but once I give it full throttle the car wants to dart to the side.

I've tried setting the tweak according to the instruction manual, and playing with the steering trim. I did notice that if I played with the tweak screws back and forth I could get it to shoot to the left or right, but it seems impossible to get it going completely straight.

Is it normal for 1/12 cars to be this sensitive to settings? I'm so used to touring cars where even big changes hardly make much difference.

BTW I also tried playing with the diff. Counter intuitively it seemed to get worse with the diff set tighter. I thought it may be that the rear tires aren't completely the same size, but I checked them both with a dial caliper and their pretty damn close.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:24 PM   #26628
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anyone kno who can paint me a parma speed 8 bodie
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:32 PM   #26629
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Newbie reply.....so take it with a grain of salt.

Possible that your wiring to the motor is inducing tweak when the chassis "loads" under acceleration? Assuming diff / rears are ok - thats all this newbie can think of.
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:03 PM   #26630
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Originally Posted by Carpetracer92 View Post
anyone kno who can paint me a parma speed 8 bodie
Give Fb/Fx a try. Here is a link to bodies that he did for me.

http://techtalk.teamtrinity.com/tt/s...&postcount=104
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:41 PM   #26631
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Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Greetings All,

I'm looking to get back into 1/12 scale racing on carpet. Haven't raced 1/12 scale in about 10 years, been racing sedan. Just would like some top suggestions in what car(s) I should consider buying.

much thanx
helpful hint on buying a 12th scale you need to find out what the local racers are running. if your area is predominatly speedmerchent or CRC or Corally. you might want to stick with the same car. one it helps in the parts department as the local guys might help you out with a part or 2 if you break something that you don't carry. and also setup help is so valuable it would be 50% the reason I would buy a car. if you raced in detroit at CEFX but a CEFX if you race in upstate NY buy a CRC if you race in FL get yourself a BMI. it's always good to have friends that you can fall back on to get help either in parts or setup. that was one reason I always bought associated is you could get parts for them ANYWHERE. they are all good cars and I have yet to see one that in the right hands with the right setup can't be driven to a win. the cool thing about 12th scale is you can get 2 for the price of one good touring car. carpet Roar nats stock "A" had I think 5 different 12th scales in it.
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:45 PM   #26632
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quick5- Check to make sure there is no binding in the axle bearings. I had this problem very severely once and it turned out to be carpet fuzz had nearly locked one bearing up. That caused the car to diff out to the right side causing a nasty left pull when hard on the throttle.

Also, YES! Very subtle changes to the cars make very big differences in handling.
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:51 PM   #26633
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9 times out of 10,if the car pulls to one side,the axle is not centered.make sure that your rear axle in centered properly and the car will track dead straight under acceleration
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Old 08-09-2007, 03:50 PM   #26634
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I'll be in Austin TX at the end of the month for the weekend and was wondering if there are any tracks out there that will have a 1/12th race the last weekend of the month?
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Old 08-09-2007, 04:05 PM   #26635
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I'll be in Austin TX at the end of the month for the weekend and was wondering if there are any tracks out there that will have a 1/12th race the last weekend of the month?
Your best bet is to come down to San Antonio, 1.5 hrs south. We run 1/12 every weekend at www.hobbytownsatx.com. If you need more info shoot me a PM
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:44 PM   #26636
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Speaking of coming to TX, when is Jason coming down with his buddy to race with us?
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:45 PM   #26637
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i am hoping to soon.i may plan the trip toward the winter months.
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Old 08-09-2007, 06:53 PM   #26638
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Quote:
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Speaking of coming to TX, when is Jason coming down with his buddy to race with us?
Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
i am hoping to soon.i may plan the trip toward the winter months.

Carlos
Jason and everyone might have to come to Texas next March for a big race at Mike's more info as we get it.
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:31 PM   #26639
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Carlos
Jason and everyone might have to come to Texas next March for a big race at Mike's more info as we get it.
That's great news....just tell Mike not to make it on my wife's b-day every year.....or is that your idea Either way I'm there
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:53 PM   #26640
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Carlos
Jason and everyone might have to come to Texas next March for a big race at Mike's more info as we get it.
double post.
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