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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-06-2007, 11:03 AM   #26611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Guys anyone have some nice a big poser shots of there 12th?

I need a new wall paper lol

So post, or pm me and I will give you my email addy so I can get them nice and big

Action, poser with body on/off..

Just needs to look cool! So anyone with pics post them all up!
Just search this thread for any of Od's car pics, and you will find a pic worthy of being wall paper.
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Old 08-06-2007, 11:16 AM   #26612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
I want to get in on some of this action!!
You will compete in the shock building division

Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
I already KNOW that OD wins this one. Let me in on the beer at Vegas.
We'll raise a glass to Chet

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Easy, Michael...easy.

I keep telling you ya gotta keep your balls to yourself, regardless the distance. Nobody wants to see that junk...
Go ahead and look.
You know you wanna

Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe View Post
as far as we can tell, OD has no life outside of RC. It is rumored that he custom winds all his servo motors
So what's your point?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
Sounds like "my dad can beat your dad up".

5 bucks on OD. Gotta support my local guy
I'm gonna want a piece of that fiver
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Old 08-06-2007, 02:05 PM   #26613
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Betting?!! - how vulgar! The challenge has been laid by the throwing down of the gauntlet, and such noble gestures are to be taken up to prove valour and intergrity. Ignoble pleasures such as the wagering of mere money are what we knights of 12th Scale expect from the serfs!!

(Or at least, that's the way we British see it!! But send me the odds anyway!! )
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Old 08-07-2007, 01:35 AM   #26614
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I didnt see that..Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Just search this thread for any of Od's car pics, and you will find a pic worthy of being wall paper.
And ok, I will go look
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:13 AM   #26615
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InspGadgt,
Thanks for the compliment on our new arms. They have been working great on each car I installed them on. Let me know any comments you have about them.

Dave Irrgang
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Old 08-07-2007, 03:40 PM   #26616
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Hello 1/12 gurus.. I am looking for some advice on how to setup my bone stock 12L4 for asphalt. the track i run at has pretty good traction. Maybe some starting points on springs, oil weight, camber, caster, which tbar. Maybe any upgrades you can suggest. I am new to 12 scales so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-08-2007, 12:08 AM   #26617
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
www.teamcrc.com does...There's got to be others out there too.
Thanks! Are there any links you can point me to as for mounting those? I read an article years ago about using contact cement and paint thinner. Is that how everyone still does it?
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Old 08-08-2007, 02:52 AM   #26618
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No they don't use contact cement and laquor thinner any more...some of the rims today will even melt in laquor thinner. Now they are using CA glue. Not sure how though.
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Old 08-08-2007, 12:04 PM   #26619
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Greetings All,

I'm looking to get back into 1/12 scale racing on carpet. Haven't raced 1/12 scale in about 10 years, been racing sedan. Just would like some top suggestions in what car(s) I should consider buying.

much thanx
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Old 08-08-2007, 01:56 PM   #26620
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Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Greetings All,

I'm looking to get back into 1/12 scale racing on carpet. Haven't raced 1/12 scale in about 10 years, been racing sedan. Just would like some top suggestions in what car(s) I should consider buying.

much thanx
BMI DB12R would be my advice. You can check it out on the DB12R thread.
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Old 08-08-2007, 02:04 PM   #26621
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Betting?!! - how vulgar! The challenge has been laid by the throwing down of the gauntlet, and such noble gestures are to be taken up to prove valour and intergrity. Ignoble pleasures such as the wagering of mere money are what we knights of 12th Scale expect from the serfs!!

(Or at least, that's the way we British see it!! But send me the odds anyway!! )

You know you want in on this action you knight of 12th scale.
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Old 08-08-2007, 02:15 PM   #26622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Greetings All,

I'm looking to get back into 1/12 scale racing on carpet. Haven't raced 1/12 scale in about 10 years, been racing sedan. Just would like some top suggestions in what car(s) I should consider buying.

much thanx
Speed Merchant Rev. 4.5

But then I'm a bit biased.
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Old 08-08-2007, 02:24 PM   #26623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Greetings All,

I'm looking to get back into 1/12 scale racing on carpet. Haven't raced 1/12 scale in about 10 years, been racing sedan. Just would like some top suggestions in what car(s) I should consider buying.

much thanx
any 12th car will work. Best advice is to see what other people at your track(s) are running so that you can swap setup tips easily.
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Old 08-08-2007, 04:53 PM   #26624
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Default Scales?

Does anyone use scales instead of a tweak board or nickels to setup their car?

I found out that used in conjunction with nickels or tweak board they can make issues like balance or collapsed spring apparent very quickly.
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Old 08-08-2007, 05:00 PM   #26625
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Not scales per say but many 1/12th drivers have gone to using balance points or the new IRS balance buttons to balance the weight right to left now. From what I've been reading lately most top 1/12th drivers don't even tweak their cars anymore...they balance them left to right then set the tweak so the tweak screws or springs just barely touch down when level.
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