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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-03-2007, 06:05 PM   #26566
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i hate to see what im like when i am in my 40's.hell,i just entered my 30's,whats wrong with me!!!!!!

i will be selling the mounts seperately.we will also be making a rear pod that fits the standard AE style bolt pattern for discs and tubes with the same style as the new car.IRS will most likely be handling those pod assemblies.
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:22 PM   #26567
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Thanks for the info on the axle guys, also a good tip about the lightweight rings not fitting as well on the one..

Chris
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:36 PM   #26568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
hey OD,does anyone make an aluminum damper post for the L4? that stock one always seems to have a mind of its own
Like Fas Ho said, Yokomo has one. It came on the YRX12-WE and maybe the later version as well. It's listed on the Yokomo USA website part# SP4516.

The hot setup, if you can find one, is the old Paragon damper post conversion. The discs mount on a tube that floats on a titanium shaft, very trick
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:45 PM   #26569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
START with lowered side pod plates if you don't already have them. A lot more life out of your tires. From there, a big-ring axle/diff if yours has the smaller one.
Does any body have a link for this part
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:48 PM   #26570
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Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
Does any body have a link for this part
you can find them here http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:01 PM   #26571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
Does any body have a link for this part
Or CRC has some as well:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...esc&perpage=10
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:24 PM   #26572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
hey OD,does anyone make an aluminum damper post for the L4? that stock one always seems to have a mind of its own
APS makes one in blue
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:32 PM   #26573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Like Fas Ho said, Yokomo has one. It came on the YRX12-WE and maybe the later version as well. It's listed on the Yokomo USA website part# SP4516.

The hot setup, if you can find one, is the old Paragon damper post conversion. The discs mount on a tube that floats on a titanium shaft, very trick
OD I might have a few of those Back home in Fresno I will check in Sept after the 1/8th Nats

OD let me know about anyraces out there In Sept I will be there 2 1/2 weeks before the IIC race. would like to run some carpet after the Nats but also get some time in before IIC any tracks in central valley anymore?
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:38 PM   #26574
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Originally Posted by tpczx6 View Post
APS makes one in blue
Thanks, Tim. I didn't know about that one. I checked it out, man it was hard to find, so they should stay in stock
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:44 PM   #26575
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Thanks, Tim. I didn't know about that one. I checked it out, man it was hard to find, so they should stay in stock
When I had a L4 I had one, its the only car I used RED thredlock on .I rather have to replace the whole brace then have that D%$^ thing turn around every time I wanted to adjust the Discs.
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:45 PM   #26576
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Originally Posted by tpczx6 View Post
OD I might have a few of those Back home in Fresno I will check in Sept after the 1/8th Nats

OD let me know about anyraces out there In Sept I will be there 2 1/2 weeks before the IIC race. would like to run some carpet after the Nats but also get some time in before IIC any tracks in central valley anymore?
OK I'll keep you posted. NorCal Hobbies will be taking the 1/18th off road track up off the carpet track in a few weeks and having it re-stretched. That's where we will be prepping for Vegas; its not a big track but CRC carpet and very smooth.

Stockton will be running this year but I don't know when it will open yet, probably not before the IIC
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:43 PM   #26577
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It's too bad Paragon doesn't still make some of their pan car parts. They had the coolest Titanium floating damper post and the best hollow graphite roll over antenna.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:13 AM   #26578
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OD - If you replace your 4-40 damper post screw with an M3x12 metric screw it will never loosen again. The M3 is just a bit bigger in diameter and has a finer thread pitch so it has more clamping force and is less likely to loosen.
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:20 AM   #26579
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
OD - If you replace your 4-40 damper post screw with an M3x12 metric screw it will never loosen again. The M3 is just a bit bigger in diameter and has a finer thread pitch so it has more clamping force and is less likely to loosen.
That's a great tip. My car has tubes so I don't use discs anymore but I still work on the odd 12L4 here and there for customers, so it will prove useful

That reminds me of the stripped body post solution of replacing the 4/40 screw with a 5/40-I used to do that a lot, but now I've discovered heli-coil thread repair kits in 4/40. I use them in the body posts, antenna mount (where the short screw goes), and castor block holes. And if you strip a motor plate, you can fix it instead of throwing it away
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:28 PM   #26580
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Default Corally ??????

Does any one make a replacement rear axle set up for the corally that uses a standard american??? axle not the corally one??? or is there a way to use a irs axle on the corally?
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