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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-03-2007, 05:11 PM   #26551
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oh yeah bro,i have never seen those outdrives before.very nice though
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:20 PM   #26552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
So I want to buy a new rear axle for one of my 1/12's but I'm wondering which brand is better; or are thay really all the same. Both use the large d-ring and use clamping style hubs. Has anyone tried both and have an info on the pros and cons of each? Thanks for any help.

Chris
I've used them both and they work about the same. The new light weight IRS rings don't fit that well on the CRC axle flange, though, so you have to use the full size D rings.

My personal favorite for a diff is the Niftech hollow axle with Niftech rocket rings and right hub. The assembly is very light and really true
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:24 PM   #26553
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oh yeah bro,i have never seen those outdrives before.very nice though
I got ahold of the guy from SoCal I bought the car from almost 3 years ago--he'd forgotten it was in there (wasn't listed as a "feature" on the car) and was pretty excited when I brought it to his attention. He's pretty sure it was an IRS unit and "held it's adjustment forever". That was certainly my experience.

I'll have to contact Dave and see if he has another one laying around...

Oh, and re: the better finish on the IRS hubs, I'd bet that's as much a matter of the level of finish Frank's willing to pay for/mark up. The retail price is (iir) pretty similar, but IRS is selling them to Frank who has to mark 'em up where IRS maybe does a bit more polish/finishing before marking 'em up to retail. The Carpet Knife 3.2R and earlier had that big round left side hub too while the IRS (and L4 and...) had the nice machined down hub.

And OD is right...REALLY hard to beat the Niftech setup. But cha gotta pay to play...
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:28 PM   #26554
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Looking for any good parts or mods to add to the 12L4.
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:34 PM   #26555
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Looking for any good parts or mods to add to the 12L4.
START with lowered side pod plates if you don't already have them. A lot more life out of your tires. From there, a big-ring axle/diff if yours has the smaller one.
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:42 PM   #26556
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i never did price out the axle without the hubs.i dont know what the price difference is to be honest but i did find the whole axle assembly with diffballs,rings and hubs to be more than reasonable so i just bought them for our new car.there are a few nice axles out such as niftech,riemen,and IRS.i just found that the quality of the IRS was real good and the price was even better.

here is a pic of our final production car.it is before the anodizing because i just sent the aluminum parts out today.i also left my damper tubes off overall i am very happy with it
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:43 PM   #26557
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START with lowered side pod plates if you don't already have them. A lot more life out of your tires. From there, a big-ring axle/diff if yours has the smaller one.
L4's have always come with a big ring diff. Some early ones had a problem with the left hub breaking at the adjustment point, the IRS left hub is a direct replacement.

Another good upgrade is to replace the e clip front axles with some Lunsford titanium axles with nuts to hold on the wheels. From there the Lunsford 8/32 socket head screws to hold on the front arms are very nice and don't strip out like the kit philips screws
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:48 PM   #26558
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
i never did price out the axle without the hubs.i dont know what the price difference is to be honest but i did find the whole axle assembly with diffballs,rings and hubs to be more than reasonable so i just bought them for our new car.there are a few nice axles out such as niftech,riemen,and IRS.i just found that the quality of the IRS was real good and the price was even better.

here is a pic of our final production car.it is before the anodizing because i just sent the aluminum parts out today.i also left my damper tubes off overall i am very happy with it
The car looks great, those little windows along the rails are very stylish
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:48 PM   #26559
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hey OD,does anyone make an aluminum damper post for the L4? that stock one always seems to have a mind of its own
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:50 PM   #26560
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The car looks great, those little windows along the rails are very stylish
thanks bro.always looking to make a fashion statement. how are things going on your project bro? looking forward to seeing it dude
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:52 PM   #26561
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The car looks great, those little windows along the rails are very stylish
what do you think of my new servo mounts?you can run the servo flat or angled just by flipping them around.i started getting lazy in my old age.
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:53 PM   #26562
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Protc3

-yokomo makes an aluminum post for the 12L4Y

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 08-03-2007 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:55 PM   #26563
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yes,all you do is just flip them around.


since yokomo makes that post,i HIGHLY recomend it as an upgrade.that plastic one always really pissed me off
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:57 PM   #26564
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another thing that is a slight bit different on the production car is the titanium turnbuckles are raw titanium and not blue.it is also coming with the lunsford titanium front axles.
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:00 PM   #26565
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what do you think of my new servo mounts?you can run the servo flat or angled just by flipping them around.i started getting lazy in my old age.
Well look at you!! That's COOL!!

My grandpa always told us "If you want to find the easiest way to do a job, assign your laziest man to do it".

Will you sell the servo mount separately?
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