R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-01-2007, 10:03 PM   #26536
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Hey OD, What rollout were you guys running last year at Stockton with the Komodo's?? With Harsh not going to be able to run offroad for the winter like we were planning he's going to be going to Stockton. So I'll probable go once a month or so ,but i'm just going to be running 12th scale.

Getting a little tired of the " taxicabs ".

Thanks,
Try 47mm. That was with F brushes cut .010" leading and trailing and red/green springs. I've been running a full F brush lately outdoors with the same r/o. Glad to hear you will be running 1/12th, I can't wait to get back to the big rug
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2007, 11:52 PM   #26537
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

It's great to see some forward thinking. To be able to tape/bolt a lipo in the car for the duration of it's practical life span.... seems kind of appealing. If you can charge it back up in 20-25 minutes with no side effects, again.... show me the down side. Why do we need to run 05 size motors? These smaller Mamba's are crazy fast.

Actually, I have a 12th scale car on the drawing board that will only be 12th scale in size, but that's were it will end. It will be a simpler version to prove a point. Likely will use a beam front end with a link-pod rear to accommodate a single cell lipo. I will make up the rear pod to use the Mamba siries motors. The esc will fit right next to motor on the rear pod. There will just be battery leads and a servo harness heading forward. Toss in a Spectrum Micro RX and a mini micro servo and will have the recipe for a 15-16ou race car. Wear and tear on the tires and body will be reduced due to the lack of wieght. Overall equipment needed at the track will be reduced to a charger, power supply, tools, tires and a can of sauce. Talk about cutting the cost of racing? We'd spend more in the vending machine then on the race car. I think that this is out of the box thinking that with the right support, could mold a new future for 12th scale.
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 12:04 AM   #26538
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: California
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Actually, I have a 12th scale car on the drawing board that will only be 12th scale in size, but that's were it will end. It will be a simpler version to prove a point. Likely will use a beam front end with a link-pod rear to accommodate a single cell lipo. I will make up the rear pod to use the Mamba siries motors. The esc will fit right next to motor on the rear pod. There will just be battery leads and a servo harness heading forward. Toss in a Spectrum Micro RX and a mini micro servo and will have the recipe for a 15-16ou race car. Wear and tear on the tires and body will be reduced due to the lack of wieght. Overall equipment needed at the track will be reduced to a charger, power supply, tools, tires and a can of sauce. Talk about cutting the cost of racing? We'd spend more in the vending machine then on the race car. I think that this is out of the box thinking that with the right support, could mold a new future for 12th scale.
ETA? or should I keep my DB12R preorder?

Its going to be a two cell car, correct? I don't believe that the mamba 25 ESC can run on only 3.7 volts (especially when the lowest low-voltage cutoff is 4v)
__________________
www.freerice.com
Help hungry people while learning.
smojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 08:51 AM   #26539
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Smojoe: keep that b/o DB12R! That car is so cool looking ... I ordered one!

My project is purely a test platform (at this point). Excellent tip on the esc cut off. My fear that 2C is going to be too fast for the weight of the car. But to clear that hurdle, I will go 2C first. I bought the lipo pack already, 1550mah at 20 continuous. Half the weight of a IB42!!!
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 09:09 AM   #26540
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: California
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

being too fast is okay as castle has motors ranging from 8k kV to 4.6k kV. I'm sure you will find one that works well (and if all else fails dynamite has a 9.2k kV motor).

As a fellow "what would happen?" brainstormer, I am actually worried there won't be enough torque in the little motors, so you will loose all your speed trying to get the cars to start.
__________________
www.freerice.com
Help hungry people while learning.
smojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 10:04 AM   #26541
Tech Elite
 
mtveten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,634
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

I remember reading a while back about a guy in the UK running a 1/18th scale tekin brushless system in a CRC car with a 2 cell lipo. If memory serves he said with the 8.0KV motor is was comparable speed wise to the 19T cars at his local track.

A LiPo option for 12th scale would defiantly get me back into one. 12th is my favorite carpet class but with no local tracks to run on I just can't justify the battery cost for only a couple regional events a year.

Mark
mtveten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 11:52 AM   #26542
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to maximum
Default

slapmaster6000
Your 12th scale mamba lipo idea sounds very interesting.
Keep us updated. We look forward to some pics too.
maximum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 01:21 PM   #26543
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
I remember reading a while back about a guy in the UK running a 1/18th scale tekin brushless system in a CRC car with a 2 cell lipo. If memory serves he said with the 8.0KV motor is was comparable speed wise to the 19T cars at his local track.

A LiPo option for 12th scale would defiantly get me back into one. 12th is my favorite carpet class but with no local tracks to run on I just can't justify the battery cost for only a couple regional events a year.

Mark
It's true, and it was a 7.2v NiMh pack from a 1/18th car. The Mamba worked brilliantly on this voltage, and the car was, as you say, about equivalent to a 19T.

The car now has a LiPo 7.4v pack fitted, weighs about 500g, but I've not seen it run yet. Brian has the same idea as me using a DB12R, I think!!

Imagine a 12th car where you never take the cells out, do limited maintenance on the motor, and get the sort of speed that takes ages to get from a 19T/NiMh combo - and we haven't started to tune it yet!! Add in limited wear on everything from the 40% lower weight, and less breakage (and longer lasting bodies!) from the lower inertia in a crash...

05 motors aren't essential for 12th, and 3.7v simply makes more work from having to fit receiver packs, regulators, etc. 7.4v LiPo with Mamba makes it all much simpler and more fun - what's not to like??!!
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 01:42 PM   #26544
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MI
Posts: 462
Default

I've run 12th with LiPo and single cell voltage. It's really not a big deal to set up. You do need a receiver pack but that's the only thing that you really need to add.

With 12 450mAh cells you can run a 3.5BL hard and make time. Stock and 13.5 are slower than 4 cell but not that bad. Switched off between the LiPo and NiMh at the track.

I picked up two maxamps receiver packs and wired them in parallel. Best part was that they can be built as a saddle pack to fit in my CEFX car.
Unregistered is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2007, 10:38 PM   #26545
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to maximum
Default Mamba 1/18th in a 12th scale

Anybody know where to get adapter motor plates and pinion gears to mount a mamba 1/18 motor into a 12th scale car?
Thank you in advance.
maximum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2007, 10:19 AM   #26546
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 788
Default

don't know of anyone making 64P pinions for the shafts of 380 motors

plate is made by BK Electronics in Germany
http://www.finedesignrc.com/ is the U.S. distributor.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-15er_flanschplatte.jpg  
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2007, 01:57 PM   #26547
Tech Master
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,154
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maximum View Post
Anybody know where to get adapter motor plates and pinion gears to mount a mamba 1/18 motor into a 12th scale car?
Thank you in advance.
It would probably be easier to buy a bigger motor
__________________
Traxxas Slash 4x4, Team Checkpoint TC-1030 Charger and Power Supply, Team Checkpoint Lipo Balancer
Big B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2007, 04:45 PM   #26548
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,664
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default IRS vs CRC rear axles - Differences, pros and cons??

So I want to buy a new rear axle for one of my 1/12's but I'm wondering which brand is better; or are thay really all the same. Both use the large d-ring and use clamping style hubs. Has anyone tried both and have an info on the pros and cons of each? Thanks for any help.

Chris
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2007, 04:53 PM   #26549
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

I believe (and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong) that IRS makes CRC's axles for them.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2007, 05:09 PM   #26550
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

yes they do.i think crc does there own hub if im not mistaken because the IRS hubs look to be a much nicer finish.they are mirror polished.they both work real good though
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:54 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0