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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-26-2003, 01:46 PM   #2641
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The Ascari didn't meet with ROAR approval. Protoform must re-submit with changes. Time is short to make it to the Nats.
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Old 03-26-2003, 04:46 PM   #2642
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david- So the bodies they just released arent ROAR legal? or the prototypes? I just picked up one today and it was different then the prototypes that i saw. The driver's head was more slammed, the whole bump for the rear shock was much smoother, and there were indents in the front end for a suspension. or at least these thins seemed different.
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Old 03-26-2003, 09:54 PM   #2643
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Tommi Makkinen, the car you have is the old "Magic" edition of the Trinity Revolver. The standard Switchblade front end should mount on the car with not a lot of extra work. Call Helger, they are the UK importer for Trinity and should have the parts or be able to order them from trinity for you. As for set up. I have the 2000 Spashett Ed. Switchblade and normally run with -2 degrees caster, no toe (in or out), camber adjusted to keep tire wear even. My car has dual dampener tubes - I use Trinity's white grease on the tubes. the heavier the lube you use, the more steering you will induce into the chassis. tires - purple fronts always, grey rears on carpet, pink rears on asphalt (tarmac).

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-27-2003, 09:21 AM   #2644
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Storm - does your body have a number molded into the windshield? If so, they may have gotten their approval. But I talked with the Technical Director a week before the carpet Nationals in MN and he had not approved them, disapproved their original submittal and asked for changes. That body was not approved for the carpet nats.
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Old 03-27-2003, 10:27 AM   #2645
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Quote:
Originally posted by nikos2002
Tommi Makkinen, the car you have is the old "Magic" edition of the Trinity Revolver. The standard Switchblade front end should mount on the car with not a lot of extra work. Call Helger, they are the UK importer for Trinity and should have the parts or be able to order them from trinity for you. As for set up. I have the 2000 Spashett Ed. Switchblade and normally run with -2 degrees caster, no toe (in or out), camber adjusted to keep tire wear even. My car has dual dampener tubes - I use Trinity's white grease on the tubes. the heavier the lube you use, the more steering you will induce into the chassis. tires - purple fronts always, grey rears on carpet, pink rears on asphalt (tarmac).

Hope that helps.
Nikos2002:
thanks for the info, u da man!... just as i saw your post i remembered an old issue of RC Car action i have on file and just dug the copy out. according to the write-ups, the old car can be fitted with the Trinity reactive caster system... this system can also be fitted to the RC-12L3... my follow-up question is: can i fit the RC-12L3 front suspension to the Revolver? i'm asking this because where i live, its a bit hard to get the reactive system. the RC-12L3 system is more available... i just want to get my car up and running without much in the way of hassle... thanks in advance for any helpful info...
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Old 03-27-2003, 07:02 PM   #2646
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david- it does have a number on it, so thats good i can paint up my bodies now for the asphault nats! (since i wont be running much 12th scale before now and then)
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Old 03-28-2003, 10:48 PM   #2647
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Tommi, the associated front end should fit on it, never tried it, but was always under the impression that they were of similar dimension. If you have a friend at the track with a 12L3 or similar just ask to try it out. It's only 4 screws. the trinity front end is much more adjustable, but the associated might be easier to get in some places.
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Old 03-29-2003, 03:33 AM   #2648
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A few questions for the 1/12th scale veterans. How often do you change your t-bars? And what is your lap times in 1/12th mod (4 cell) compared to 1/10th touring mod?
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Old 03-29-2003, 09:27 AM   #2649
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Quote:
Originally posted by nikos2002
Tommi, the associated front end should fit on it, never tried it, but was always under the impression that they were of similar dimension. If you have a friend at the track with a 12L3 or similar just ask to try it out. It's only 4 screws. the trinity front end is much more adjustable, but the associated might be easier to get in some places.
Thanks for the info. i borrowed my friend's RC12L3 front end and test fitted it. seems i have to drill a new pair of holes aft of the old holes... the L3 front end's fore end bolts on the chassis easy but there is no aft holes for the aft end of the front end. have to drill it... i'll just buy a L3 front end and adapt it to the revolver...

it'll just be funny when i register for a race. when i fill up the form under "car", instead of corally, assoc, trinity, it'll read "hybrid"
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Old 03-29-2003, 09:45 AM   #2650
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I managed to take a couple of vids of the last 12th scale meeting of the season at my club.

Here

and Here
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:00 AM   #2651
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what are you runinning in thoses movies? 4cell or 6cell? mod or stock? and if mod what turn?
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Old 03-29-2003, 12:30 PM   #2652
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6 cell stock, with about a 25-30mm rollout!
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Old 03-29-2003, 12:41 PM   #2653
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In my shop I have the Protoform and Trinity Speed 8 9 whatever and the Yok MS-1. Which is the best in yalls opinion before I pick one?
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Old 03-29-2003, 05:34 PM   #2654
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yoshi- the trinity speed 9 is almost the EXACT same mold as the parma speed 8, however its VERY heavy (more than the parma regular wieght) and it cracks easily, so i woudlnt recommend it. the protoform speed 8 was so great that all of protoform's drivers had to excersize their "competative clause" in their contracts that allowed them to use other brands of bodies since their sponser's stuff was keeping them from running their best (they all ran parma speed 8's). however the protoform ascari body just came out and was made ROAR legal (perfectly timed so they couldnt run the bodies at the nats, lol) but they did run them at the 'birds. its a great body and has more downforce than the parma and slightly more steering, and its very slammed (some drivers had problems fitting their electronics under it, lol).

Right now i would say the new protoform ascari is the body to get, however the parma speed 8 is very similar (i have both bodies and the only area's that really differ are the front of the ascari is slightly concave so it has more steering, and the rear wing area is slightly larger without being taller, and the ascari is open cockpit while the parma is closed). so it really comes down to personal opinion, however i am personally going to keep both in my stable and use it as a tuning device. but i would not recommend running any other body.

Loius- from the looks of that video i would assume that there isnt much traction (no groove), and getting the car to trasnition is key. thats why i would suggest a 4 cell car, i would even run 4 cells and a stock motor instead of 6 and a stock motor since the straight is very short and you dont need punch, however transitioning is key, and not to offend anyone in that video, but none of those cars seemed to transition well. Also that is defently a track where the speedmerchant would absolutly stomp the competition, espically the new V-force front end.
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Old 03-30-2003, 05:22 AM   #2655
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
Loius- from the looks of that video i would assume that there isnt much traction (no groove), and getting the car to trasnition is key. thats why i would suggest a 4 cell car, i would even run 4 cells and a stock motor instead of 6 and a stock motor since the straight is very short and you dont need punch, however transitioning is key, and not to offend anyone in that video, but none of those cars seemed to transition well. Also that is defently a track where the speedmerchant would absolutly stomp the competition, espically the new V-force front end.
I asked at the track what people thought of 4 cell and they said it was very difficult to make 8 mins (don't know what motor) and it didn't have any advantage over 6 cell.

It's not normal carpet and traction compound is not allowed, so there isn't a groove but there is still quite good traction if tuned right (sometimes grip-roll)

I don't really want to have to buy more packs just for 1/12th and find out it's slower than 6 cell. Do you think a Roadkill with V-force front end would be OK for that track?
Could I just put 4 cells in the 6cell chassis to try out or would the balance be way off?

Thanks for the help
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