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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-01-2007, 05:35 PM   #26521
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Brian,
Nice racin' w/you too again, we were in some heats together at the 05 Birds.
Your diff assembly works great = low maint
That was EJ who asked for time, OD forgot to change Xtals.
21 years 1/12 experience? Picked my first up 3 years ago...some day I'm gonna catch you
Later,
Paul
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:14 PM   #26522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey all, just a shameless little plug... all Slapmaster diff kits are now coming with a cool black anodized aluminum nut. Looks ultra stealth and ultra reliable.

Paul: hey it was great to meet everyone in Seattle for Nat's just a few weeks ago. OD and crew looked great all week as did Josh's Pro Wheels. It was great to run with dirvers who really enjoy 12th scale. A class group really. When Ralph's TC went up in smoke in A2, there was a "no" amungst the drivers when a 5 minute grace was asked for. When a 12th scale driver needed a minute to get a correct/clear tx/rx crystal in the car, everyone said: "sure".

12th scale looks just as exciting now as it did 21 years ago when I first picked one up. Now that it looks like we are on the horizon of b/l in many of the classes.... it looks like all we need to figure out is how to get a lipo strapped in. I haven't tried it yet, but it would be realistic to try a single cell lipo and a hot b/l as "the class". If it turned out to be about as fast as a 19t class, then it could satisfy the masses. We would likely have to run a rx pack to make the radio work, but just imagine just how simple a car could be? We could spend all our time tuning the chassis!!!

Brian- www.slapmastertools.com
Hey Brian, what is the status of your T-Bar Flex Plates?
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:36 PM   #26523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey all, just a shameless little plug... all Slapmaster diff kits are now coming with a cool black anodized aluminum nut. Looks ultra stealth and ultra reliable.

Paul: hey it was great to meet everyone in Seattle for Nat's just a few weeks ago. OD and crew looked great all week as did Josh's Pro Wheels. It was great to run with dirvers who really enjoy 12th scale. A class group really. When Ralph's TC went up in smoke in A2, there was a "no" amungst the drivers when a 5 minute grace was asked for. When a 12th scale driver needed a minute to get a correct/clear tx/rx crystal in the car, everyone said: "sure".

12th scale looks just as exciting now as it did 21 years ago when I first picked one up. Now that it looks like we are on the horizon of b/l in many of the classes.... it looks like all we need to figure out is how to get a lipo strapped in. I haven't tried it yet, but it would be realistic to try a single cell lipo and a hot b/l as "the class". If it turned out to be about as fast as a 19t class, then it could satisfy the masses. We would likely have to run a rx pack to make the radio work, but just imagine just how simple a car could be? We could spend all our time tuning the chassis!!!

Brian- www.slapmastertools.com
Can we get the nut seperately? I've got a couple on my cars that need a new diff nut.
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:38 PM   #26524
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Originally Posted by CaliberX View Post
Brian - just found out that your products are available to me through Canwest RC. My LHS (that funnel 95% of my rc dollar through as opposed to www) is checking to see what Korgea can do. Hopefully, all my 12th and the one 10th will be outfitted with your thrust bearings soon!!!
I am not aware of any shops/dealers carring my products in Korea. Like you said, CanwestRC is handling all the LHS Canadian needs. Ashford Hobby is taking care of the eastern US. Action Model Center is handling the UK. Feral Batteries is taking care of our racers down under. And of course, I am here for support as well.

The Flex Plate project has been submitted to my favorite contractor. Spring/summer has left me with little time since Memorial weekend and has prevented progress. That has just changed (finally!). If all goes well, they could be ready for the IIC. I recall many complaining of the loose conditions towards the end of the run. This would be a super item to have on hand just for that condition. Untill then, they are still on hold till further notice.
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:51 PM   #26525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I am not aware of any shops/dealers carring my products in Korea. Like you said, CanwestRC is handling all the LHS Canadian needs.
l Korgae is the name of a guy that works at CanwestRC to whom my LHS talks to when ordering from them. Sorry about the confusion. Just so happy to be able to get your products.
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:54 PM   #26526
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I have breifly thought about selling them separately. If there is a demand, I will package 'em up!
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-black-diff-assembled.jpg   1/12 forum-black-diff-nuts.jpg  
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:25 PM   #26527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey all, just a shameless little plug... all Slapmaster diff kits are now coming with a cool black anodized aluminum nut. Looks ultra stealth and ultra reliable.

Paul: hey it was great to meet everyone in Seattle for Nat's just a few weeks ago. OD and crew looked great all week as did Josh's Pro Wheels. It was great to run with dirvers who really enjoy 12th scale. A class group really. When Ralph's TC went up in smoke in A2, there was a "no" amungst the drivers when a 5 minute grace was asked for. When a 12th scale driver needed a minute to get a correct/clear tx/rx crystal in the car, everyone said: "sure".

12th scale looks just as exciting now as it did 21 years ago when I first picked one up. Now that it looks like we are on the horizon of b/l in many of the classes.... it looks like all we need to figure out is how to get a lipo strapped in. I haven't tried it yet, but it would be realistic to try a single cell lipo and a hot b/l as "the class". If it turned out to be about as fast as a 19t class, then it could satisfy the masses. We would likely have to run a rx pack to make the radio work, but just imagine just how simple a car could be? We could spend all our time tuning the chassis!!!

Brian- www.slapmastertools.com
Brian-like I always say, 1/12th scalers are just a classier bunch

The future of 1/12th is looking good. There seems to be a lot of interest and new cars developing out there. Like the change to 4 cell there could even be a new formula on the horizon. If we could just find the time to try all this stuff!


Quote:
Originally Posted by P2 View Post
Brian,
Nice racin' w/you too again, we were in some heats together at the 05 Birds.
Your diff assembly works great = low maint
That was EJ who asked for time, OD forgot to change Xtals.
21 years 1/12 experience? Picked my first up 3 years ago...some day I'm gonna catch you
Later,
Paul
I didn't forget nuttin'! I put a new reciever in the car and was told by someone who shall remain nameless "no need to test it, it will work"

3 years? wow, yer just a pup!
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:31 PM   #26528
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hey OD,are you doing the birds this year? you need to join mine and brians manufacturers mug race
it was fun as hell bro.good times and good racing.
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:18 PM   #26529
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
hey OD,are you doing the birds this year? you need to join mine and brians manufacturers mug race
it was fun as hell bro.good times and good racing.
I sure would like to, I need to go to Cleveland and the Snowbirds before I'm too crotchity to pick up a transmitter. It will depend on my schedule here at home and finances. I can only do a couple of big races a year and that's been Vegas and the Nats for the last few years. If I sell some cars maybe I can do three! I would love to get in on the manufacturer's mug race, and if we are racing for last place I think I can take you guys!!
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:51 PM   #26530
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Oh man.... That's right.... Jason kicked my butt at the Birds. What was that race? The D Main? We should have done so much better. I can build the slowest CO27 on the planet. The only time it was fast was in the draft. Jason: I had the mug all engraved, labled and stickered for ya. I chased after ya, but you had already split back to the shop. I don't know that Birds will be on my "to do list" this year. I want to try out some other races that I have been passing on. I want to see some of the midwest tracks, go visit the guys in Stockton again and I may poke around in Montana and ND.
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:56 PM   #26531
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Yeah, man! Come on down to Stockton, we'll have a West Coast "Mug Challenge"
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Old 08-01-2007, 09:10 PM   #26532
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yeah man,i think that was one of my all time worst appearances. i had to leave quick to avoid the flying tomatos. i still had fun though.too bad you cant make it bro.its really the only big race i get to do all year.

OD,it would be cool to have ya down here for the birds.its cool to meet and hang around with some of the guys from the forums.if you guys do decide to make it down,let me know before hand.i would like to make time to hang with you guys for a bit.
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Old 08-01-2007, 09:18 PM   #26533
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I'll work on it!
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Old 08-01-2007, 09:34 PM   #26534
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Hey OD, What rollout were you guys running last year at Stockton with the Komodo's?? With Harsh not going to be able to run offroad for the winter like we were planning he's going to be going to Stockton. So I'll probable go once a month or so ,but i'm just going to be running 12th scale.

Getting a little tired of the " taxicabs ".

Thanks,
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:03 PM   #26535
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Scott B ...... forget the 19 turn and run 13.5 Bl it's jus about the same speed, a little on the slower side.

Brian ..... A little info on your LiPo statement. While we were at the paved nats I had some time to talk to Josh Cyrul and he was telling me about an individual that had been testing a BL/LiPo 1/12 at his track. He didn't have much time to talk at the Nats nor did I but we have sense and this is what he has been able to tell me. The individual at his track had been testing a Novak 3.5 BL running a 3.7v LiPo. Josh did not know the battery config but said he will get me more info after the GLC. The results were very promissing. The car had runtime for days, speed was very comprable to a 19t/4-cell car. A little more corner speed and punch in the infield and the 19t/4-cell cars had a bit more straitaway speed. The car was run light with no added weight. Josh said the car actually looked pretty good on the track and couldn't see any difference in how the car handled when the individual switched between the BL/LiPo combo and the 19T/4-Cell combo. Josh did not drive it. Tthe individual did run a receiver pack as well. I hope to have more info on this in the comming weeks. I know I will be doing some testing/experimenting with LiPo this winter on my rug at Stockton. NO MORE NiMh FOR ME!!!!!!!!!!

Hope to see you on our rug this winter. We usually do a couple of multi day events, one in particular is our Northwest Carpet Champs that traditionaly has been run the same weekend as the Novak Race except for the '05/'06 season when we did the carpet nats. We ran the race the second weekend in December and had a great turnout and most likely we will be doing it agin this year in December. Last year we had a stock and 19 turn 1/12th class with 35+ entries between the two classes, not bad for a large regional race.
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