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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-30-2007, 10:35 AM   #26491
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Bring yours out and we will see ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by march to my own View Post
CRC T-Rorce with a new top plate and slightly different chassis...
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:39 AM   #26492
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At the Tucson indoor track we run a 46/88 on 13.5 and it could prolly use more ..

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sweet.i think it is safe to say that a 13.5 will not be a problem
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Old 07-30-2007, 11:38 AM   #26493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliberX View Post
I am considering getting this kit for my 3.1R and 12L4. Any comments? Should I stay away.

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...e=CARS-ARC12L4

The primary reason is the axle using nuts as opposed to clips. Does the extra weight make a huge difference to a club racer?

Thanks for your input.

CaliberX
Absolutely! This product/kit is a great upgrade.

That's all OD and I use on the front of our cars. This only fits the Associated style, reactive caster type front ends. In fact, with the release of IRS's new lower control arms, you can now build a complete Associated, reactive caster front end with only using one Associated part!!! That part is the upper eyelet that holds the upper pivot ball. Bud's Products used to sell a replacement for that part but I was never successful in finding that part.

You will be very happy with Lunsford Products. Check out their 8-32 screws to mount the front end to your chassis and get rid of those nails they call phillips. Another great upgrade.
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:34 PM   #26494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humpty View Post
At the Tucson indoor track we run a 46/88 on 13.5 and it could prolly use more ..
ok cool,then its official,the 13.5 is not a problem
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Old 07-30-2007, 04:23 PM   #26495
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Yeah it looks like yall have plenty of room ...Car looks good By the Way ...LAter Humpty Helms

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ok cool,then its official,the 13.5 is not a problem
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Old 07-30-2007, 04:24 PM   #26496
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thanks brutha
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:19 PM   #26497
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The new car looks good Jason!!! I like the cool ideas in the rear suspension. I'll be interested to see how it does here at SIR, I'm sure a few will pick them up.

-Korey
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:16 PM   #26498
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thanks bro.i just put my prototype car together to check the fit and finish.this really went together like a swiss watch.i am very excited about the release of the car.once it gets into some hands it is gonna take off quick i think. i am always my own biggest critic and i really am satisfied with how everything panned out.i cant find any flaws.it pretty much falls together and doesnt tweak.
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:46 PM   #26499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
thanks bro.i just put my prototype car together to check the fit and finish.this really went together like a swiss watch.i am very excited about the release of the car.once it gets into some hands it is gonna take off quick i think. i am always my own biggest critic and i really am satisfied with how everything panned out.i cant find any flaws.it pretty much falls together and doesnt tweak.
Dude brag away....It does what you designed it to do and doesn't tweak when you take some hits....To me that makes for one tough, reliable car. That is why I sold my Gen X and went back to the 3.2R cause it was a more reliable car....at least it was for me.
-Shookie <><
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:55 PM   #26500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The new car looks good Jason!!! I like the cool ideas in the rear suspension. I'll be interested to see how it does here at SIR, I'm sure a few will pick them up.

-Korey
Hey Korey, I plan on getting one after the 1st of the year, yeah I know thats a ways away, but with Christmas and some Birthdays coming up, my budget is super streched

Also Mr. Shookie, I noticed you have a (P-Dub possibly) Bumper on your prototype DB12R, do you have to trim the back of it so it fits up against the front suspension ? Hope your feeling well

Brian
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Old 07-31-2007, 12:00 AM   #26501
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Someone mentioned a few pages back where to find IRS parts at a good price on-line. I can't seem to find the post so if you could send me the link here or in a PM I'd appreciate it.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:16 AM   #26502
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My question got shuffled after the new page but I was wondering if someone could explain the effects of having the pod on a T-plate car level or slightly raised above the chassis? Thanks
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:03 AM   #26503
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Default 1/12th scale on road exploding again

hey all:Great to see this class exploding in popularity again as it is one of the earliest classes of racing in rc and realy fun to watch.There are allot of new and great choices out there such as those from corally crc speedmerchant irs digity designs hyperform as well as new offerings from hot bodies hyperdrive and bmi to keep this class fresh.If i've missed any feel free to post.Finally how will brushless motors affect the growth of this class?Thanks for the info
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Old 07-31-2007, 03:45 PM   #26504
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1/12th doesnt evolve very often but it seems to be now.alot of different companies are really showing interest in the class and putting there all into it.its nice to see because it has always been and always will be an exciting class.
brushless is going to boost all electric classes.alot of guys have gone to nitro due to the battery issues that have been seen with the 4200's and the hassle of always cutting motors to stay competitive.with brushless here and getting stronger along with lipo making its mark,alot of guys are coming back to electric.
1/12th is getting bigger i feel because of the price of the high performance you get when you buy one.for $200-$300 you get a car that far exceeds the capabilities and handling of a $500 touring car.they are cheap to maintain and always a good time.honestly i would like to see 1/10th pan car replace TC.TC is just getting out of hand.
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Old 07-31-2007, 05:40 PM   #26505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
1/12th is getting bigger i feel because of the price of the high performance you get when you buy one.for $200-$300 you get a car that far exceeds the capabilities and handling of a $500 touring car.they are cheap to maintain and always a good time.honestly i would like to see 1/10th pan car replace TC.TC is just getting out of hand.
Couldn't agree w/you more, at this years Nat's 1/12 19T had bfaster lap times than TC mod
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