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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-29-2007, 06:33 PM   #26476
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My Hyperform has the balancing holes as well, they work with the Hudy balancing tools, or the Trinity Body Post Marker tools (tip by Korey Harbke)
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:12 PM   #26477
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you can use hudy tools,no brainer body hole markers or the IRS balancing tools.dave wanted to go with 1/2 ball balancers with a 1/16th pin to allow the car to roll on the ball instead of getting false balance readings from the abrassive carbon fiber hole edge slipping on the pin.they all work but the 1/2 ball is the most accurate.
another advantage to having the holes there is to make it very easy to center your rear axle.it gives you a dead on reference point.
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:16 PM   #26478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
might need a 83 spur for the 13.5
i dont know.from the looks of it we may be able to squeek a 50 tooth pinion on there.never know
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:22 PM   #26479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
it is to balance the car, jason has put those in every 1/12th scale that i know of, i have own 3 different BMI 1/12th scales and they all had them
not every kit. I think have 2 db12 kits wit no balancing hole. they were prototypes though. hehehe
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:25 PM   #26480
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actually yang,that was a screw up by me. i reprogrammed them on my cad/cam system for some minor changes with my fixturing and i missed them. all my kits have had them for the past 3 or 4 years.
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:01 PM   #26481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
actually yang,that was a screw up by me. i reprogrammed them on my cad/cam system for some minor changes with my fixturing and i missed them. all my kits have had them for the past 3 or 4 years.
cool, then I have 2 one-of-a-kinds (mistakes) of BMI. They must be worth a fortune. hehehe. actually I knew that. we talked about it and you told me I could send them back and get new ones. but, it was not a big enough deal. I just scored the center line on the front of the chassis and the rear of the pod plate.

I was just trying to gig marcos. i have owned and still have one of each of the bmi 1/12 cars kits since you started cutting 1/12 chassis. really the only one I did not get was the original BMI DB12R
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:35 PM   #26482
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double post,sorry
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:35 PM   #26483
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yeah,i never did officially release the R.it was a tough time with the brushless motors taking off i waited it out to see which direction things were heading.im glad i did because it is allowing me to do 1 release without having to offer special parts so people can adapt to the everchanging futures of the hobby.i didnt want to have people spend the money on my car and then release special pods,axles and so on.i want to give the best possible product i can that will not need added expense.with the car about ready for release,i am now confident that there will be no issues with the technology to come.
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:30 PM   #26484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Yes it is a balancing hole and yes it will be in the production kit. There is one on the front of the chassis too.

FYI, IRS makes a set of delrin 1/2 balls with a pin in the flat sides that will fit into these holes so you can check and perfect your lateral balance

Also, the alloy pod plates do not offset the axle back at all compared to a 12L4. Jason tweeked the shape of the motor openings and this in combinaion with Jason's very low profile flex link suspension allow the motor to move very far forward. This is better than moving the axle back or pushing the batteries forward to make room as both of these are compromises that negatively effect a cars performance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
it is to balance the car, jason has put those in every 1/12th scale that i know of, i have own 3 different BMI 1/12th scales and they all had them
Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
yeah,i never did officially release the R.it was a tough time with the brushless motors taking off i waited it out to see which direction things were heading.im glad i did because it is allowing me to do 1 release without having to offer special parts so people can adapt to the everchanging futures of the hobby.i didnt want to have people spend the money on my car and then release special pods,axles and so on.i want to give the best possible product i can that will not need added expense.with the car about ready for release,i am now confident that there will be no issues with the technology to come.
My Birthday is August 30th, so if it is out before or by then, I should have a DB12R to race with. I am looking forward to this car. I can't wait until the website is launched.
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Old 07-29-2007, 11:00 PM   #26485
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Jason I am having some trouble locating the IRS 1//2 ball balancers with the 1/16 pin could you please put a link to the page
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Old 07-29-2007, 11:42 PM   #26486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
C'mon OD - Tyrrell six-wheeler F1 car; it's gotta be done!!
Oh man, that's the first thing that popped into my head when I thought more wheels But it would probably just be declared illegal...again
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Old 07-30-2007, 04:16 AM   #26487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
Jason I am having some trouble locating the IRS 1//2 ball balancers with the 1/16 pin could you please put a link to the page
it is a new product.i am not sure if he has them on his sight yet.you can try calling him for more info
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Old 07-30-2007, 04:16 AM   #26488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
My Birthday is August 30th, so if it is out before or by then, I should have a DB12R to race with. I am looking forward to this car. I can't wait until the website is launched.
that shouldnt be a problem
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:36 AM   #26489
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Can someone explain the effects of having the pod on a T-plate car level or slightly raised above the chassis? Thanks
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:21 AM   #26490
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Default Lunsford Front End Kit

I am considering getting this kit for my 3.1R and 12L4. Any comments? Should I stay away.

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...e=CARS-ARC12L4

The primary reason is the axle using nuts as opposed to clips. Does the extra weight make a huge difference to a club racer?

Thanks for your input.

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