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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-26-2007, 09:36 PM   #26431
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I hate to keep saying it over and over again but tape is the lightest and most secure way to attach your batteries to the chassis. If you haven't used it much, just use it for a season and you will see that it gets easier to do and you never have batteries getting loose
OD after 30yrs and who knows how many times we tape in Batts we don't even think about it anymore do we??

OD
maybe you can do some step by step pictues for us
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:13 PM   #26432
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Yes, but we have photo evidence that OD wasn't ALWAYS such a taping savant.
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Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:57 PM   #26433
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Originally Posted by tpczx6 View Post
OD after 30yrs and who knows how many times we tape in Batts we don't even think about it anymore do we??

OD
maybe you can do some step by step pictues for us
You read my mind We are planning some "how to" videos for the new website update and battery taping will be the first one.

Quote:
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Yes, but we have photo evidence that OD wasn't ALWAYS such a taping savant.
After being completly wrapped for many days I became "one" with the tape
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Old 07-27-2007, 06:41 AM   #26434
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Well - i'm almost ready to join the 1/12 ranks (that pretty much don't exist here in Australia!)

Probably the most copied job in the history of RC Pan car bodies - but oh well - it's a simple one

Worst paint job i've done too.....its not great at all in the flesh.

Spose i should mention its on my new L4 too Should get its first run in the next few weeks as soon as i get a motor for it
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Old 07-27-2007, 10:58 AM   #26435
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Originally Posted by NT View Post
Well - i'm almost ready to join the 1/12 ranks (that pretty much don't exist here in Australia!)

Probably the most copied job in the history of RC Pan car bodies - but oh well - it's a simple one

Worst paint job i've done too.....its not great at all in the flesh.

Spose i should mention its on my new L4 too Should get its first run in the next few weeks as soon as i get a motor for it
Don't worry, if you do much racing you'll get to paint another one soon enough!
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Old 07-27-2007, 12:14 PM   #26436
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Default Another Choice For 1/12th HD PRO3

This is Hyperdrive Racings Newest 1/12th .. Its a T Plate Car ..Thicker Chassi for Carpet Racing ..Plenty of room in Pod for Brushless ...Pod desigh allows you to put a brushless motor in without removing tire or top Plate ...Goes right in ...Great Car made by a Great Company ...Thanks for Looking ...Anyone interested that lives in the Phoenix area or Tucson Area we will be racing them at Competition Hobbies every Friday night ...
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Old 07-27-2007, 05:57 PM   #26437
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Originally Posted by NT View Post
Well - i'm almost ready to join the 1/12 ranks (that pretty much don't exist here in Australia!)

Probably the most copied job in the history of RC Pan car bodies - but oh well - it's a simple one

Worst paint job i've done too.....its not great at all in the flesh.

Spose i should mention its on my new L4 too Should get its first run in the next few weeks as soon as i get a motor for it
What???!! No more mini cooper? Beat Tony Gray too many times??
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Old 07-27-2007, 07:12 PM   #26438
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Don't worry, if you do much racing you'll get to paint another one soon enough!
Just come out and say it OD ".........................just like sydewynder........"
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Old 07-27-2007, 10:06 PM   #26439
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hey guys this is my first time posting of this forum but i have been reading you guys for over a year. I have been during some testing on low traction carpet tracks with my crc genx and thought i should post it.

Front:
10 deg caster
1 shim in front
.50mm with .01 of preload
5000 wt oil on kingpin
.5 degrees of toe out
1.5 degrees of camber
CRC Magenta tires 43mm
3.5mm ride height

Middle:
30 wt oil
red spring
.01 shim under the top ball of the shock
3.5 mm ride height

Rear:

30 000 wt oil in the tubes
.01 shim under the outside ball on the tubes
.02 shims under the side links
white side springs with .125 preload
2 mm of pod droop
no pod sag
3.5mm ride height
CRC white tires 45mm


Parma Speed 8 body mounted more rearward
Batteries in the rear position

tell me what you think or try

thanks JB
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Old 07-27-2007, 10:08 PM   #26440
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oh forgot about traction compound

full rear, 1/3 front, jack the gripper
i let it sit there for about 15-20 minutes
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Old 07-28-2007, 02:34 AM   #26441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
What???!! No more mini cooper? Beat Tony Gray too many times??
Beating TFG is like shooting fish in a barrell - its fun for the first few go's - after that, its the same old same old

I doubt anything 12 scale related will kick on down here in VIC, but we can only try

And don't stress - the 3 Mini's are all sitting there waiting patiently
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Old 07-28-2007, 08:58 AM   #26442
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Can someone please help me out. I am new to 1/12th and want to buy a car for the upcoming season. The track I race at stocks CRC parts so I think it might be a good idea to get a CRC (plus I like the battery arrangement). Could someone please tell me if there is a great deal of difference between the 3.2R and the GenX. I know that design-wise, there is, but is the performance vastly different? Am I being to narrow minded by focusing only on the CRC cars? Finally, what are the inherent differences between a t-plate car and cars with no t-plate? Thanks in advance for your help, i realize these are fairly basic questions for you guys, but I have to start somewhere.

Scott
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Old 07-28-2007, 11:31 AM   #26443
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I'm having issues with my Gen X front bearings. The bearings are consistantly breaking apart. It looks like the flange is first to go, then it takes part of the outer race with it and the whole bearing falls apart. I admit that I'm not the cleanest driver and I do glance the walls every once in a while, but I never had an issue with the 1/8 X 5/16 bearings, but these thinner 3/16 x 5/16 seem almost too weak. I'm running a 13.5 BL motor, so the speeds aren't super high and I'm a lot cleaner on the track than some of my competitors, but they aren't having the same issues. I switched to Dynamite bearings, could that be the problem? The origonal bearings are still intact, but they started to get a little gritty, so I swapped them out. I put some Acer Ceramics on order, are they more rugged than the dynamite bearings?

I wish CRC would make a titanium front axle with a 1/8th inch diameter, I have a bunch of those still in my pit-box. Any advice would be greatly appresiated as I can't afford to keep throwing away bearings this quickly, I usually lose one per heat.

-Frank
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Old 07-28-2007, 12:28 PM   #26444
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Frank CRC does make a 1/8th axles ...Titanium they screw into the offset blocks with a nut on the back....


Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankW View Post
I'm having issues with my Gen X front bearings. The bearings are consistantly breaking apart. It looks like the flange is first to go, then it takes part of the outer race with it and the whole bearing falls apart. I admit that I'm not the cleanest driver and I do glance the walls every once in a while, but I never had an issue with the 1/8 X 5/16 bearings, but these thinner 3/16 x 5/16 seem almost too weak. I'm running a 13.5 BL motor, so the speeds aren't super high and I'm a lot cleaner on the track than some of my competitors, but they aren't having the same issues. I switched to Dynamite bearings, could that be the problem? The origonal bearings are still intact, but they started to get a little gritty, so I swapped them out. I put some Acer Ceramics on order, are they more rugged than the dynamite bearings?

I wish CRC would make a titanium front axle with a 1/8th inch diameter, I have a bunch of those still in my pit-box. Any advice would be greatly appresiated as I can't afford to keep throwing away bearings this quickly, I usually lose one per heat.

-Frank
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Old 07-28-2007, 02:12 PM   #26445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humpty View Post
Frank CRC does make a 1/8th axles ...Titanium they screw into the offset blocks with a nut on the back....
Those axles will not work with the pro-strut front end that's on the Gen X. I've used those axles on cars with the Associated front end and have always been happy with the quality, but I like the way the new pro-strut front end handles and don't want to switch back.

-Frank
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