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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 03-23-2003, 12:37 PM   #2626
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Some people crack me up, how can we help with your car/set-up problems if we don't know what car you run???? Of course CRC, Associated, and speedmerchant info is basically interchangable, Trinity set-up is interchangable from the center shock back with the three listed above...... but corally set-ups/problems are Corally specific and need to be addressed by a totally different crowd.......

BTW: who makes a left rear hub that screws onto the axle??????? know all of the Associated/trinity clones use standard rear axles and none screw on... REMEMBER--- when referring to a specific corner of the car refer to it as you are standing behind the car facing the front......

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Old 03-23-2003, 01:54 PM   #2627
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The new left rear hibs from AE screw on. The clamp-on hub is an option now, one that must be purchased separately.
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Old 03-23-2003, 04:55 PM   #2628
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Default CRC + AE parts

Are all CRC and AE parts inter-changeable, especially the front section? How about their wheels? My local hobby store are carrying some CRC kits but I'm not sure about the part support in the near future. I've heard that CRC kits have the same built as RC12L3. Is that true?

Secondly, I've seen a particular 4cell 1/12 Carpetknife without the center shocks. However, the latest 4cell model at their website comes with the shocks. Did I spotted a 1/12 from another manufacturer?
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Old 03-23-2003, 05:45 PM   #2629
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The 4 cell car you saw w/o the center shock is most likely a Corally, look closer and the entire front end is different.

The 6-pack and 12L3 parts are completely interchangable, except the 12L doesn't use the side damper tubes, uses a graphite t-bar and tweak screws....... most guys take the t-bar off and use Associated fibreglass t-bars w/ tweak screws instead of the springs, and keep the tubes.......

The chassis plates are different but interchangable......

If you are looking I have a 6-pack I am selling for $80 with the "retro" (old style) front end or $105 with the new front end..... all prices shipped.......

anyone interested please e-mail me at my e-mail
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
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Old 03-24-2003, 02:16 AM   #2630
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and the best place to buy a SpeedMerchant in the states would be where????? I just can't seem to find one anywhere.

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Old 03-24-2003, 04:38 AM   #2631
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hobbyetc.com carries all of the speedmerchant stuff (and its an online store). however i heard that speedmerchant might start selling direct off their site, however that might be a little while, so i would just buy off hobbyetc for now.
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Old 03-24-2003, 05:08 PM   #2632
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Default Newbie asking...

Hi guys,

I need help, im new at this 1/12 thing... whats the best setup for 1/12 on carpet? i dont need the specific setup... just the best default setup for the ff. parts...

-front camber
-front caster
-front toe angle
-rear damper setup
-front and rear tire setup
-gearing for stock and mod motors with 4-cell packs

any help would be appreciated as id like to get my car up to speed quickly for upcoming races i will join... Thanks guys...

By the way... the car i got looks like a Trinity Revolver with a single damper tube but the front end is a monoshock setup like the old Tamiya mini coopers and its got a front swaybar... im dumping this front end and im trying to get a Trinity Reactive caster front end for it but im having trouble finding it here in manila. would an Assoc. RC12L3 front end fit here? if so, what setup would be good for carpet?
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Old 03-25-2003, 02:53 AM   #2633
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Originally posted by stormperson
hobbyetc.com carries all of the speedmerchant stuff (and its an online store). however i heard that speedmerchant might start selling direct off their site, however that might be a little while, so i would just buy off hobbyetc for now.
I think coxy was asking this as the website directs you to hobbyetc but on there they are out of stock, seems to me that they dont want to sell any cars i still have not heard anything from them in regard to my email
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Old 03-25-2003, 04:07 AM   #2634
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they are the most likely place to get speedmerchant stuff from, and they will always get the parts first. speedmerchant is pretty busy right now with the v-force front end and getting that all together (should be out pretty soon) and some other new stuff. Also check out www.rcmadness.com they might have some stuff in stock, and if it doesnt appear on their online store call him up. or trying calling up speedmerchant and see where they suggest to go and look.
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Old 03-25-2003, 06:32 AM   #2635
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Default Re: HELP

Originally posted by lem2
i have a problem!

The screw on the graphite shaft where I screw the left rear HUB is not straight and I can't screw the left rear hub!!!!???

What will I do???

Can I remove the screw from the graphite shaft!!

I got the KIT Brand new from Ultimate Hobbies, but I am back here in my country!!

Any suggestions will be of great help!!!

Sorry for the BIG mistake.

The kit is AE RC12L3

Will AE still honor the warranty even if I purchased it there when I was visiting? I have a BIG race coming up and no car to use.

I still have a proof of purchase.


I guess the immediate solution is to buy a new Shaft which is oretty exoensive here.
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Old 03-25-2003, 11:33 AM   #2636
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You'll have to contact AE for and let them know what's up. If you do have to replace the axle to get going go ahead and pick up an IRS unit, then keep the Standard piece for back-up...... trust me this will get broken sooner or later.....

Here ya go

I have defective merchandise or missing parts. (fax form)

I have a question which can be answered anytime within four working days by e-mail. (Help Form)

I have an issue that needs to be addressed IMMEDIATELY. (phoning Associated)

Hope this helps!
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

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Old 03-25-2003, 02:32 PM   #2637
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Default protoform ascari body

Any feedback on the Ascari body? Handling wise??

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Old 03-25-2003, 05:18 PM   #2638
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Hey stormperson

I think you got the WebSite wrong... They don't show or list any SpeedMerchant products... Spend the last 20 min. there and nothing...

Where did you find stuff on there Website that shows SppedMerchant products???


Bradley J. Gotori
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Old 03-25-2003, 05:46 PM   #2639
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heres a link just scroll down to speedmerchant.
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Old 03-25-2003, 06:27 PM   #2640
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the ascari has alot more downforce suppositly (and this is from talking to a factory driver who did prototype testing for them), and should be the ticket for asphault where the extra grip is needed. also the body provides slightly more steering than the bentley, so also might be better for carpet as well. i just prefer the way it looks, and its very slammed so i will probably end up running htem myself
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