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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-22-2007, 06:44 PM   #26356
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
What will give me more turn in and or over all steering/responsiveness? I am currently using 10 degree blocks up front and would like to know what the 5 and 0 deg will do...can someone explain?
What center spring are you using?
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Old 07-22-2007, 06:52 PM   #26357
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
What will give me more turn in and or over all steering/responsiveness? I am currently using 10 degree blocks up front and would like to know what the 5 and 0 deg will do...can someone explain?
Those blocks would reduce the turn in.

If you need more turn in you need a stiffer rear spring, if you have a t-bar car you can add the center screw if you are not running it, more sauce on the front tires, a softer front tire, move weight back (cells, speedo, rx...etc.) on the car.

What car and tires are you running?
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Old 07-22-2007, 07:32 PM   #26358
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Those blocks would reduce the turn in.

If you need more turn in you need a stiffer rear spring, if you have a t-bar car you can add the center screw if you are not running it, more sauce on the front tires, a softer front tire, move weight back (cells, speedo, rx...etc.) on the car.

What car and tires are you running?
Its a CRC Pantoura...its got soft center spring and 30Wt oil. I'm using the front 10 deg blocks...I will try front .20 springs and see how that goes....it just needs a bit more turn in.
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:05 PM   #26359
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Originally Posted by portyansky View Post
Hey guys I am totaly new to 1/12 scale pan cars. What the best one out right now? I was looking at the Corally and the Carpet Knife Generation X.
This is a new class that the local club will be starting here for the upcomming indoor season. The rules are fairly simple and are set in a way that it comes down to driving and setup. We are all going to be limited to a 27 turn motors.
I basically want something that can take some abuse, and will not require rebuliding every month or so.
thanks for your help.
Get the Gen X, great car, innovative and great support. Comes complete with racing tires as well.
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Old 07-23-2007, 03:43 AM   #26360
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Hey guys gearing question, I just bought a Orion 10.5 BL motor I plan to use this in 4-cell 1/12th roadcourse how should I gear this motor on a 100x50 track with a 1.78 rear tire?
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:20 AM   #26361
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I drove my 10.5 Orion for the first time last weekend and my rollout was 52mm. Driving on an Indoor Carpet track of about 25x15m.
Maybe a good starting point.
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Old 07-23-2007, 05:30 PM   #26362
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im gonig to buy a crc bloody knife 3.2r (my first 12th scale btw) and i was wondering if anyone knows where i could find a shock body. i didnt find it on crc's website.
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Old 07-23-2007, 05:57 PM   #26363
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The 3.2R comes with the Dura-Shock, so your shock body can be found at http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718847
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Old 07-23-2007, 07:20 PM   #26364
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awsome thanks scottrik. i was also looknig for a good servo and i was thinking about that s9650 i think it was or something cheaper.
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Old 07-23-2007, 07:25 PM   #26365
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Originally Posted by mountaindr3wz View Post
awsome thanks scottrik. i was also looknig for a good servo and i was thinking about that s9650 i think it was or something cheaper.

The Futaba 9602 is the same size as the 9650 but it is analog and less expensive...its a lot faster than the 9650 too (.09sec vs. .15sec). Analog servos are great and they draw less juice from the batteries.
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Old 07-23-2007, 08:21 PM   #26366
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awsome thanks scottrik. i was also looknig for a good servo and i was thinking about that s9650 i think it was or something cheaper.
The JR3550 is also back on the market (anolog).
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:04 PM   #26367
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The JR3550 is also back on the market (anolog).
The 3550 has been my favorite. Maybe not the fastest, but fast enough for me and very reliable.
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:34 AM   #26368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portyansky View Post
Hey guys I am totaly new to 1/12 scale pan cars. What the best one out right now? I was looking at the Corally and the Carpet Knife Generation X.
This is a new class that the local club will be starting here for the upcomming indoor season. The rules are fairly simple and are set in a way that it comes down to driving and setup. We are all going to be limited to a 27 turn motors.
I basically want something that can take some abuse, and will not require rebuliding every month or so.
thanks for your help.
Don't forget the CEFX it is a great car and you can get the kits and parts, the Gen X is also good with parts, I could never get the Gen X the way I get the CEFX to run, I like the Tbar car much better to me it is more consistant even when you hit something hard, a friend have the DB and I gave it a try and it was OK but trying to get one is like going in your back yard to dig for gold stick with the kit that you can get parts and a new kit and not one that is going to be hard to find parts.
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Old 07-24-2007, 09:30 AM   #26369
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Originally Posted by Mutabarucka View Post
Don't forget the CEFX it is a great car and you can get the kits and parts, the Gen X is also good with parts, I could never get the Gen X the way I get the CEFX to run, I like the Tbar car much better to me it is more consistant even when you hit something hard, a friend have the DB and I gave it a try and it was OK but trying to get one is like going in your back yard to dig for gold stick with the kit that you can get parts and a new kit and not one that is going to be hard to find parts.
I don't have one of the DB kits but to say that you can't get parts or the kit is... Jason has been on this thread letting potential customers know that his kit has been unavailable and when it will be. Besides as I recall when the CEFX kit first came out you could not get parts for it. It happens with all car manuf's. on every size of company.

Keep in perspective and don't be a ....

E
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:29 AM   #26370
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I don't have one of the DB kits but to say that you can't get parts or the kit is... Jason has been on this thread letting potential customers know that his kit has been unavailable and when it will be. Besides as I recall when the CEFX kit first came out you could not get parts for it. It happens with all car manuf's. on every size of company.

Keep in perspective and don't be a ....

E
I don't know which rock you crawl from under but I did not state which kit and which parts are hard to get a hold of, I said get a kit where you can find parts, so if you can't read and understand what you read keep your opion to your self. There is a program name COMPENSATORY EDUCATION if you want I could enroll you.
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