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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-18-2007, 10:39 PM   #26296
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.
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Last edited by crazy5; 07-18-2007 at 10:44 PM. Reason: wrong quote
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:42 PM   #26297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
Thanks JB for recommending the IRS Center Shock, I picked one up from Jason, and man is it smooth , I would recommend everyone get one, they are sweet
How does it work on the track?
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:45 PM   #26298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMR View Post
Difuser make Jeff setup his own car and I might be able to catch him next time
It's not what you know...It's who you know!


Hey James, as always it was fun racing with you. Can't wait for a re-match next month in Cali.
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:56 PM   #26299
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hey everyone i was wondering if anyone has a setup for low to med bite carpet for the L4.
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:59 PM   #26300
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I liked purple fronts and white rears, battery in the front, .020 springs, 30 wt oit in the center shock with a green or silver spring, and I always liked how the speed 8 handled compared to the speed 12 or the speed 12b, but thats just me.
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:21 PM   #26301
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Originally Posted by crazy5 View Post
How does it work on the track?
Not sure yet, but compared to the Associated VCS, the feel is alot smoother, I rebuilt the AE a couple times trying to get it smoother and it wasn't getting any better, as soon as I put the IRS together I immediatly noticed a difference. Hopefully I will get down to the track soon and get some runs in, I still need a few things before it hits the track.
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:40 PM   #26302
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As far as the 12th scale tricks your best bet is to ask questions specifically and go to sites like http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/ and http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/index.html to get some of the tricks. I am sure the other 12th scale gurus can shime in with their knowledge as well.[/QUOTE]

Hey the bold home sc rr dot com link doesn't work
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Old 07-19-2007, 03:14 AM   #26303
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Hi all, I'm writing a sumup of what what does on a 1/12th.
I have some finished and would like if someone could check and perhaps correct me, check the text file.

Trust me, it looks a lot better in excell
Attached Files
File Type: txt 1-12.txt (3.6 KB, 134 views)
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Old 07-19-2007, 04:44 AM   #26304
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Hey, I wanna try this 1/12 racing out but i have no idea what kits are out there besides the RC12L4. I know there are other kits out there, so could someone pass me some links on the cars that are hot right now?
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Old 07-19-2007, 08:37 AM   #26305
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At this time it's REALLY easy to buy a genuinely competitive 1/12 chassis and almost impossible to buy a "bad" one. Once you get beyond the T-bar vs. link chassis they all really become variations on the theme. From there it just becomes personal choice, trying a few different chassis to find the one YOU think suits you best.

To start with, find out what the "wheels" at your local track are running. If you have someone there you can get set-up info from you'll be ahead of the game.

A BRIEF listing of some likely candidates (there are many more equally as good):

These first two are the most "different" of the bunch, running the batteries fore and aft rather than across the chassis as is standard practice. This moves the overall weight bias a little bit to the front and seems to help (me, anyway) with on-power steering by reducing push.

See the Darkside Motorsports Mx2 at: http://www.darksidems.com/viewproducts.php?partnum=411 (my personal favorite).

See the Diggity Design 3D12 at: http://www.diggitydesigns.com/3d12_fullkit.html


Of course, when people are talking about "link cars" they're usually talking about the ubiquitous CRC chassis. After years refining their excellent Carpet Knife series they released their all-new Gen-X. The most noteworthy feature is an all-new front end that receives mixed reviews. Some rave about them, others (myself included) rave AT them.

See the CRC Gen-X at: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=category&categ ory_id=11


Then there are a few EXCELLENT T-bar designs out from these vendors:

See the OD Design OD12 at: http://www.od12.com/products.htm did very well at the paved Nats this last weekend.

See the BMI DB12 at: http://www.bmiracing.com/ is JUST now coming out in production form. A non-traditional "T-bar", Jason's stuff is ALWAYS top-shelf.

See the PRC Quad 12 at: http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/ A good design as well...probably the best quality carbon fiber I've seen.

See the IRS Rug Rat at: http://www.teamirsrc.com/12scale.html A very good car, but afaik a conversion kit only. That said, I think you can get everything you need to complete a car. Regardless which chassis you get you need a set of IRS rear height adjusters.

See the Team Laje SpeedEvil 2007 at:http://www.laje.se/index.php?display=products Has been doing very well in Europe. I know a couple "names" here were going to get them but haven't heard any results. They're a bit pricey, especially since the dollar tanked against the world, but they come completely assembled. I'm going to order a couple of their front end assemblies to try.

And, believe it or not, there are many others. Even the venerable old RC12L4 still wins races. The kits are inexpensive but you really need to figure on at least buying lowered side plates which right away gets the price up into the neighborhood of some of these specialist chassis builders.
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Old 07-19-2007, 08:56 AM   #26306
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Scottrik

My Laje SE-06 12th car was killer, but i'm always moving on. OD had one, probably is his museum now since he is doing his own cars.

a friend of mine is currently running the Laje MH Frontend on his Yari FF-07 Flexi 12th car and loves it. We also got a MH FE for his 1/10 pan oval car, he is extremely happy with it. for the oval car it was a custom order and measurements had to be sent in.

before i would order this FE from Laje, i would ask if they are going to rebase it off the new just released IRS lower a-arms (not AE lowered), or whatever...? AE frontend stuff is drying up.
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:12 AM   #26307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero View Post
Hey, I wanna try this 1/12 racing out but i have no idea what kits are out there besides the RC12L4. I know there are other kits out there, so could someone pass me some links on the cars that are hot right now?
What will you be running on Asphault or Carpet. T-Bars are the only way to go on asphault and they work good on carpet, Link style cars word best on carpet.

T-Bar Cars

1. Calandra T-Force http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1312
2. CEFX C12 EVO http://www.cefx.net/products/kits/c12/
3. Corally SP12X (US edition)http://www.corallyusa.com/sp12x.htm
4. Hyperform Razor http://www.hyperform-racing.com/index.htm
5. Hyperdrive HK-1000 http://www.hyperdriveracing.com/12scale/hk1000.cfm


Link Style Cars

1.Speedmerchant Rev 4 http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/rev4.html
2.Calandra Gen X http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718906

You should be able to order all of these throught your local hobby shop, also if you go with the Corally Sp12X (one of my favorites) go with the US edition wich uses US standard wheels. Xray will also be throwing their hat in the 12th scale ring soon, look for it at the Vegas Race.
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:24 AM   #26308
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i believe we're on asphalt right now and will move indoors when it gets cold so a ride that handels both well would be nice, especially seeing that this is my first.
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:28 AM   #26309
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http://www.cefx.net/products/kits/c12/ is a link to the previous car Josh/CEFX made. for some reason the www.cefx.net has not been updated in a long time.

they are now using www.cefxraceway.net. here's a link straight to the shop:
http://cefxraceway.net/?mainURL=%2Fstore%2Findex.php3
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:56 AM   #26310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero View Post
i believe we're on asphalt right now and will move indoors when it gets cold so a ride that handels both well would be nice, especially seeing that this is my first.

BMI's new DB12 is just straight sick, both asphalt and carpet. T plate cars are better for asphalt and link cars are better for carpet....But BMI uses both just in a different way. You should go to the website and check it out.
It cost the same as the other cars and has the best fit and finish and builds perfect. Plus Jason, includes setups that work really well. You can also email him for questions. I haven't found any better suport, you always get straight up answers and "Sorry that is only a team item" you get what the team gets.

Just another to look at.
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