R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 09-19-2017, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: DesertRat
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.
SOMEONE ELSE DO THE REAR TUNING SECTION! AND A TROUBLESHOOTING TREE! FEEL FREE TO MAKE YOUR OWN CHANGES!

Print Wikipost

Like Tree62Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-18-2007, 09:39 PM   #26296
Tech Fanatic
 
crazy5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acuna mattata.........Bitches!
Posts: 891
Default

.
__________________
YOU SUCK YOU STUPID CLOWN!

Last edited by crazy5; 07-18-2007 at 09:44 PM. Reason: wrong quote
crazy5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 09:42 PM   #26297
Tech Fanatic
 
crazy5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acuna mattata.........Bitches!
Posts: 891
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
Thanks JB for recommending the IRS Center Shock, I picked one up from Jason, and man is it smooth , I would recommend everyone get one, they are sweet
How does it work on the track?
__________________
YOU SUCK YOU STUPID CLOWN!
crazy5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 09:45 PM   #26298
Tech Fanatic
 
crazy5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acuna mattata.........Bitches!
Posts: 891
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMR View Post
Difuser make Jeff setup his own car and I might be able to catch him next time
It's not what you know...It's who you know!


Hey James, as always it was fun racing with you. Can't wait for a re-match next month in Cali.
__________________
YOU SUCK YOU STUPID CLOWN!
crazy5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 09:56 PM   #26299
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Green Bay WI.
Posts: 249
Send a message via AIM to mush104
Default

hey everyone i was wondering if anyone has a setup for low to med bite carpet for the L4.
mush104 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 09:59 PM   #26300
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

I liked purple fronts and white rears, battery in the front, .020 springs, 30 wt oit in the center shock with a green or silver spring, and I always liked how the speed 8 handled compared to the speed 12 or the speed 12b, but thats just me.
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 10:21 PM   #26301
Tech Master
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,170
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy5 View Post
How does it work on the track?
Not sure yet, but compared to the Associated VCS, the feel is alot smoother, I rebuilt the AE a couple times trying to get it smoother and it wasn't getting any better, as soon as I put the IRS together I immediatly noticed a difference. Hopefully I will get down to the track soon and get some runs in, I still need a few things before it hits the track.
Big B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 10:40 PM   #26302
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: victoria BC
Posts: 810
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

As far as the 12th scale tricks your best bet is to ask questions specifically and go to sites like http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/ and http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/index.html to get some of the tricks. I am sure the other 12th scale gurus can shime in with their knowledge as well.[/QUOTE]

Hey the bold home sc rr dot com link doesn't work
cyrrus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 02:14 AM   #26303
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 528
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hi all, I'm writing a sumup of what what does on a 1/12th.
I have some finished and would like if someone could check and perhaps correct me, check the text file.

Trust me, it looks a lot better in excell
Attached Files
File Type: txt 1-12.txt (3.6 KB, 136 views)
__________________
Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.
Quante is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 03:44 AM   #26304
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dirrty South
Posts: 80
Default

Hey, I wanna try this 1/12 racing out but i have no idea what kits are out there besides the RC12L4. I know there are other kits out there, so could someone pass me some links on the cars that are hot right now?
WingZero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 07:37 AM   #26305
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,199
Trader Rating: 245 (100%+)
Default

At this time it's REALLY easy to buy a genuinely competitive 1/12 chassis and almost impossible to buy a "bad" one. Once you get beyond the T-bar vs. link chassis they all really become variations on the theme. From there it just becomes personal choice, trying a few different chassis to find the one YOU think suits you best.

To start with, find out what the "wheels" at your local track are running. If you have someone there you can get set-up info from you'll be ahead of the game.

A BRIEF listing of some likely candidates (there are many more equally as good):

These first two are the most "different" of the bunch, running the batteries fore and aft rather than across the chassis as is standard practice. This moves the overall weight bias a little bit to the front and seems to help (me, anyway) with on-power steering by reducing push.

See the Darkside Motorsports Mx2 at: http://www.darksidems.com/viewproducts.php?partnum=411 (my personal favorite).

See the Diggity Design 3D12 at: http://www.diggitydesigns.com/3d12_fullkit.html


Of course, when people are talking about "link cars" they're usually talking about the ubiquitous CRC chassis. After years refining their excellent Carpet Knife series they released their all-new Gen-X. The most noteworthy feature is an all-new front end that receives mixed reviews. Some rave about them, others (myself included) rave AT them.

See the CRC Gen-X at: http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=category&categ ory_id=11


Then there are a few EXCELLENT T-bar designs out from these vendors:

See the OD Design OD12 at: http://www.od12.com/products.htm did very well at the paved Nats this last weekend.

See the BMI DB12 at: http://www.bmiracing.com/ is JUST now coming out in production form. A non-traditional "T-bar", Jason's stuff is ALWAYS top-shelf.

See the PRC Quad 12 at: http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/ A good design as well...probably the best quality carbon fiber I've seen.

See the IRS Rug Rat at: http://www.teamirsrc.com/12scale.html A very good car, but afaik a conversion kit only. That said, I think you can get everything you need to complete a car. Regardless which chassis you get you need a set of IRS rear height adjusters.

See the Team Laje SpeedEvil 2007 at:http://www.laje.se/index.php?display=products Has been doing very well in Europe. I know a couple "names" here were going to get them but haven't heard any results. They're a bit pricey, especially since the dollar tanked against the world, but they come completely assembled. I'm going to order a couple of their front end assemblies to try.

And, believe it or not, there are many others. Even the venerable old RC12L4 still wins races. The kits are inexpensive but you really need to figure on at least buying lowered side plates which right away gets the price up into the neighborhood of some of these specialist chassis builders.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 07:56 AM   #26306
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 970
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Scottrik

My Laje SE-06 12th car was killer, but i'm always moving on. OD had one, probably is his museum now since he is doing his own cars.

a friend of mine is currently running the Laje MH Frontend on his Yari FF-07 Flexi 12th car and loves it. We also got a MH FE for his 1/10 pan oval car, he is extremely happy with it. for the oval car it was a custom order and measurements had to be sent in.

before i would order this FE from Laje, i would ask if they are going to rebase it off the new just released IRS lower a-arms (not AE lowered), or whatever...? AE frontend stuff is drying up.
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 08:12 AM   #26307
Tech Master
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,170
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero View Post
Hey, I wanna try this 1/12 racing out but i have no idea what kits are out there besides the RC12L4. I know there are other kits out there, so could someone pass me some links on the cars that are hot right now?
What will you be running on Asphault or Carpet. T-Bars are the only way to go on asphault and they work good on carpet, Link style cars word best on carpet.

T-Bar Cars

1. Calandra T-Force http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1312
2. CEFX C12 EVO http://www.cefx.net/products/kits/c12/
3. Corally SP12X (US edition)http://www.corallyusa.com/sp12x.htm
4. Hyperform Razor http://www.hyperform-racing.com/index.htm
5. Hyperdrive HK-1000 http://www.hyperdriveracing.com/12scale/hk1000.cfm


Link Style Cars

1.Speedmerchant Rev 4 http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/rev4.html
2.Calandra Gen X http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718906

You should be able to order all of these throught your local hobby shop, also if you go with the Corally Sp12X (one of my favorites) go with the US edition wich uses US standard wheels. Xray will also be throwing their hat in the 12th scale ring soon, look for it at the Vegas Race.
Big B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 08:24 AM   #26308
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dirrty South
Posts: 80
Default

i believe we're on asphalt right now and will move indoors when it gets cold so a ride that handels both well would be nice, especially seeing that this is my first.
WingZero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 08:28 AM   #26309
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 970
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

http://www.cefx.net/products/kits/c12/ is a link to the previous car Josh/CEFX made. for some reason the www.cefx.net has not been updated in a long time.

they are now using www.cefxraceway.net. here's a link straight to the shop:
http://cefxraceway.net/?mainURL=%2Fstore%2Findex.php3
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 08:56 AM   #26310
Tech Elite
 
Mr. Shookie's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: The Wilderness
Posts: 4,713
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Mr. Shookie Send a message via MSN to Mr. Shookie
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZero View Post
i believe we're on asphalt right now and will move indoors when it gets cold so a ride that handels both well would be nice, especially seeing that this is my first.

BMI's new DB12 is just straight sick, both asphalt and carpet. T plate cars are better for asphalt and link cars are better for carpet....But BMI uses both just in a different way. You should go to the website and check it out.
It cost the same as the other cars and has the best fit and finish and builds perfect. Plus Jason, includes setups that work really well. You can also email him for questions. I haven't found any better suport, you always get straight up answers and "Sorry that is only a team item" you get what the team gets.

Just another to look at.
-Shookie <><
__________________
All who love the LORD JESUS I praise with you.1 Cor 10:31
Team HOLY Rollers (Team Manager)
The Church is a Hospital for Sinners not a Museum for Saints.
RcTech Feedback <>< RC Tech Subcriber #92
Mr. Shookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
DesertRat
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:28 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net