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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-19-2003, 08:50 AM   #2611
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alyee - Yes, the two cars you mentioned have the capability for adjusting the front ride hieght. The run the same combinations of tire size I mentioned above.
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Old 03-19-2003, 02:23 PM   #2612
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David,

I forgot to take a look at your new parts at the Orion Race.....


The Buckeyes held onas lons as they could.. it was a fair game/season all in all..
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Old 03-19-2003, 05:23 PM   #2613
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Bone - I had a good time at the race. I enjoyed meeting you and talking about stuff. Now it is time for my Boilermakers to reach for the sky. I know the women will be good. It is time for the men to stand up. Don't let those other cats that race there get under your skin. They have a habit of doing that.
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Old 03-19-2003, 09:44 PM   #2614
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Default NEW SpeedMerchant Front End

Does anyone have some better pics or info on the new SpeedMerchant front end?

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Old 03-20-2003, 04:51 AM   #2615
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ian
I'm thinking of getting a new 12th scale and these are the options that i have locally......i would like to know in terms of handling characteristic and also tunability of each kit....listed from top to bottom with the best parts support on the top of the list

1)Kawada M300(Associated lookalike)
2)Team CRC 6 pack
3)Associated RC12L3
4)Corally SP12G3(used to own one)

Anyone whom have any recommendations please do so ....all input is greatly appreciated

anyone??
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Old 03-20-2003, 07:44 AM   #2616
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Ian- you seem to be looking at all 6-cell cars. if you plan on running only 6-cell, i would also take a look at the speedmerchant roadkill 12, while i have never run one, i love my rev. 3 (which is pretty much the same car, just the batts are aranged differently for 4 cells instead of 6). however most tracks have 4 cell classes now (and very few have 6), so i would highly suggest looking at the speedmerchant rev. 3, and with the new "v-force" front end coming out it should be untouchable (its won almost every year at the nats in the past 10 or so years).

As far as the V-force, I know some of the details about it, but from what i heard, and have talked to Bruce (the designer) about, it should very different (in a good way) than all of the other front ends out there. so it will defently be worth the wait.
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Old 03-20-2003, 08:00 AM   #2617
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hi stormperson....yes all i'm looking for is 6 cell 12th scale....i have no worries about racing a 4 cell 12th coz there is not even any race being cater to pancar locally...so this would just be a bashing kit....the problem with speedmerchant is that i cant find it locally and i prefer to have some support if i ever need parts for it....by the way thank you for your valuable input on speedmerchant kit....anyone care to give other opinions on other kits....thanks again
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Old 03-20-2003, 11:38 AM   #2618
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if you are just bashing then i would defently suggest 4 cell, since a 4 cell car is much cheaper (you can buy 2 6-cell packs and then make 3 4-cells) also the tire wear is less (since an extra 2 cells is alot of wieght in such a light car), and also your motor is less stressed, and its easier to drive.

12th scales dont break that much (even running mod). the most common things to happen are chunking tires and cracking bodies, but its VERY rare that anything on the chassis will actually break (its not like a sedan or offroad car where you can break an arm or hub or something like that). also the speedmerchant car is currently sold with the old style AE front end (until the V-force comes out), and you can put the AE dynamic strut on (which is better for asphault than the old style one) without modifactions, and that is the only real chassis peice that you can break (Although it takes a REALLY good hit to break an arm, more likely you will colapse springs or ruin them in some way, and those are standard AE springs). the rear pod on the speedmerchant is the same as the AE car, the main difference is in the battery location and how it pivots on the rear end (which is actually alot more durable since you cant break t-bars like on the AE car), and its almost phyically impossible to break (unless you hit it with a hammer). so the only things you could break are really standardized 12th scale parts, and there are less things to break on the rev. 3 than the other cars. also www.hobbyetc.com sells parts for the car at very cheap prices.
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Old 03-20-2003, 12:48 PM   #2619
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I need some suggestions, we were thinking on running 6 cell mod in the summer on pavement. What tire do you suggest we run? Are rubber cap tires anygood?
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Old 03-20-2003, 06:25 PM   #2620
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6 cell mod is insane speed wise, however if you are insistant on running it then i would suggest pink rears and purple fronts or maybe the softer 35's.
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Old 03-22-2003, 06:38 AM   #2621
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Default gidday

Hi i am interested in gettin a 1/12th to sharpen up my driving skills, waht car would u recomend?> eitehr 6 or 4 cell, it doesnt bother me (6 preferable.. dont need new batts)
i am thinkin about spashett switchblade, or the associated one..

anyways, can you please give me your veiws on what car is the go and why.

thanks

Robbie Storey
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Old 03-22-2003, 08:17 AM   #2622
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Hands down, the Associated 12L3. The reason is simply parts availability. No other car has the distribution of parts as this one and you can find replacements parts virtually everywhere.
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Old 03-22-2003, 06:19 PM   #2623
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Default Newbie asking...

Hi guys,

I need help, im new at this 1/12 thing... whats the best setup for 1/12 on carpet? i dont need the specific setup... just the best default setup for the ff. parts...

-front camber
-front caster
-front toe angle
-rear damper setup
-front and rear tire setup
-gearing for stock and mod motors with 4-cell packs

any help would be appreciated as id like to get my car up to speed quickly for upcoming races i will join... Thanks guys...
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Old 03-23-2003, 03:22 AM   #2624
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Default HELP

i have a problem!

The screw on the graphite shaft where I screw the left rear HUB is not straight and I can't screw the left rear hub!!!!???

What will I do???

Can I remove the screw from the graphite shaft!!

I got the KIT Brand new from Ultimate Hobbies, but I am back here in my country!!

Any suggestions will be of great help!!!

Lem
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Old 03-23-2003, 05:56 AM   #2625
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You can buy a left side hub that clamps to the axle instead of using the threaded stud. Those are available from IRS and CRC. There might be some other companies making these hubs, but I am not aware who they are. But the clamping hub does not depend on the threaded stud for locking.

I would suggest you check with Ultimate about who to contact about replacement of the axle. If it is an Associated axle, and I am pretty sure it is, you can check with them about a replacement through a waranty.
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