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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-15-2007, 06:59 AM   #26221
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YEAH!!!! can't wait protc3
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:42 AM   #26222
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Sorry - double post!!

Last edited by SlowerOne; 07-15-2007 at 07:43 AM. Reason: Double post
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:43 AM   #26223
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Thanks for the info Jason - why would they go to 0deg blocks? What's your theory?

Can't wait to see the car, Jason. Still hoping I'm high fourth on that list for despatch!! Somehow I just know it's going to be worth the wait!
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:54 AM   #26224
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The reason I heard was that traction was very high and the car would tend to dig in hard or spin out.
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Old 07-15-2007, 11:45 AM   #26225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Thanks for the info Jason - why would they go to 0deg blocks? What's your theory?

Can't wait to see the car, Jason. Still hoping I'm high fourth on that list for despatch!! Somehow I just know it's going to be worth the wait!
they are trying to eliminate the castor loss on corner entry due to the high bite.i usually dont do that but i really dont know what kinda traction we are speaking of.usually i will add bump toe in to the car,add max static castor and glue the side walls of the front tires.also throw on heavier front springs.i may feel differently if i was there though.

orders are going out in the order they came in.no one will have to wait though because i am doing a large run of cars and spare parts.i am really glad that i finally got things moving.these little cars have alot of parts.
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Old 07-15-2007, 02:28 PM   #26226
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The traction up here is alway med-high, but with ROAR Nats going on the track is getting alot more runs on it than normal which is probably bringing the traction up.
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:14 PM   #26227
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Default transponder not working

Has anyone tried the Novak Electronics 4-Cell Transponder Voltage Booster? I have been have trouble getting all of my laps counted in 4 cell mod. I am using the Novak 4 cell GTB with a 5.5 motor. What kind of LIPO receiver pack are people using in 1/12 scale?
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:43 PM   #26228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fred kellner View Post
Has anyone tried the Novak Electronics 4-Cell Transponder Voltage Booster? I have been have trouble getting all of my laps counted in 4 cell mod. I am using the Novak 4 cell GTB with a 5.5 motor. What kind of LIPO receiver pack are people using in 1/12 scale?
This is the one i use...Its small and you can lay the novak voltage regulator right on top...
https://01836cd.netsolstores.com/ind...ROD&ProdID=685
Hope that helps,
Go back a few pages and see the pics its right in front of the weights..
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Old 07-15-2007, 11:00 PM   #26229
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Spektrum makes a voltage protector as well http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6570 your local hobby shop should have one, if not I am sure they can order one.

Guys any input as to which is more consistant tweak screws or a spring setup like the one on the T-Force. I currenty have a Hyperform that uses the screw and nut, but I was looking at buying the conversion from Calandra that uses side springs on the T-Bar, what do think is it worth it?
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:01 AM   #26230
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Most of the stock guys at SIR went to zero blocks to reduce the aggressive turn in due to the high grip. Grip got to the consistency of post it note gum. It was like vht indoors. Super sticky. We used every trick in the book to reduce steering and still make a car turn. I spent most of the weekend digging in the tire box trying to come up with a combo. I wound up using Jaco yellow-blacks on my stock car. I was not the fastest, but it was what was needed for me. Trav was the fastest car there in 12th stock. He ran what looked like sprayed on foam on the new Jaco wheels. James won; think he used Parma magentas f&r, CA'ed and low. Wear was remarkable. I think I started my tripples today with 1.77 and whittled them down to 1.75 after 24 minutes. It would have been feasable to have run only two sets of tires the entire event if you knew what that magic combo would have been ahead of time.

Jeff Kuney and I both put MS2.3's on the poduim this weekend. First time at a national event. I am pretty thrilled. But it was a CEFX and an OD12 that took checkers. Congrats to those two!!!!

Brian www.slapmastertools.com
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:09 AM   #26231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
Spektrum makes a voltage protector as well http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6570 your local hobby shop should have one, if not I am sure they can order one.

Guys any input as to which is more consistant tweak screws or a spring setup like the one on the T-Force. I currenty have a Hyperform that uses the screw and nut, but I was looking at buying the conversion from Calandra that uses side springs on the T-Bar, what do think is it worth it?
i always liked the screws
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:10 AM   #26232
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congrats to OD and slapmaster on there impressive finishes at the nats.
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Old 07-16-2007, 01:00 PM   #26233
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Thanks for all the 'pep-talks' Jason; I just flamed out mentally. James Arluck was on fire though.....
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:14 PM   #26234
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no problem dude.
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:29 PM   #26235
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We'll I'm back from the Nat's and struggled all week. Couldn't find a drivable setup until the last Main. EJ Evans couldn't even drive my car. I at least had a blast with Team Purple, especially Jay Bee......Team Mad Rip in da house.

The problem was too much bite, my car wanted to dig in mid corner and spin out. I ran Pro 38s purple front/pink rears which were fine for 4-5 minutes. After that the purples would gum-up and the car would spin out. The solution which I finally went to on A3 was to run magentas up front. It would seem that that would increase steering, but in reality it didn't. Due to the density of the magentas vs purples, the magentas didn't gum-up at all. Wish I would of had a drivable car so I could of been more competative.

Here was my setup:

Magenta 42mm, Pink 43.5mm
rideheight 4mm F/R
Rear track 172mm
Olive spring/25wt, .075 T-bar
0* blocks, shimmed 2 in front, .5* camber, 0* toe
F-brushes, 96-31
Speed 8 HD

Big thanks to Michael O'Donnell for all his support!...SIR and Mike Blackstock for hanging out with Team Mad Rip asking for our gearing

Congrats to James Arluck 07 ROAR 1/12 Stock Nat'l Champ!!
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