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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-08-2007, 05:28 PM   #26161
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Originally Posted by outrunner25 View Post
Adrian, good interview on www.rctvlive.com it made me want to take a look at your new car just when I thought I had my 12th scale picked out (crc)!

When will this car be available the guys at rctv did not know. nice job again on the interview
BMI is working to get complete kits out in early August.
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Old 07-08-2007, 07:27 PM   #26162
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Originally Posted by Carpetracer92 View Post
Hey can some one please give me a really fast setup for a crc ck 3.1.

Heres my track http://youtube.com/watch?v=d0kEgyOYaa4

My email is Subaruwrx9216@aol.com so please help
You should have posted in the Willis thread, we can help better since we know the track. I run .22 front springs, I am going to try .20 to see if they are any better. I run CRC red side springs or maybe white, based off of how my car looks through the turns. If the back of my car is jumpy or hops I go back to white springs. I run the CRC gold spring in the center, all the time. I run about half a degree of front camber. I use 40wt shock oil in the damper tubes. I run 4mm of ride hieght. I am not sure about roll out, I just run it by how it accelerates and how the motor temp is.
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:22 PM   #26163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
These Companies must think we are made of money, but its not all their fault, I think there needs to be strickter guidlines for Brushed and Brushless Motors. Up here at SIR the fast lap a couple weeks ago in Stock was 12.2 the fastest 19T was 12.5 . I am on a budget like many other racers are, and we are falling behind. I have been criticized by some racers at our track for buying parts and equipment online and not from our onsite hobby shop, but their is a $5 difference for every $20 (differs), might not seem like much to them, but to me it is the difference between practicing 8 times a month, vs 4 times. Not to mention our Xray stock is always low or gone, due to RcAmerica taking their sweet a$$ time sending our track stuff, even if we call ahead and to make sure its in stock, it is still a month or two before it comes in.
But I am getting WAY off subject, Sorry
so will i

I have had a Novak Pro13.5 in my sedan for 3 months now...it cost me
$76.99. i haved raced it near everyweek but one. since then, i oil and checked 2 bearings. no comm cutting, brushes to change (everyweek end), on the $35+ stock motors i was using. which i used to have 4-6 at anyone one time. Initial cost is higher than a pair of 27T brushed motors, but in just 1-2 weeks of racing the BL turns out cheaper.

Some tracks are setting rules that only Novak 13.5 and 10.5's will be allowed in spec classes. this may be due to the oval BRL rules and series. these rules are being adopted to some degree by tracks that run roadcourse. that can cause stagnation in the hobby as far as i care. imagine if back in 2002 that only one 27T motor would be run at most tracks. imagine if stock would have have been fun running only a MVP or CORE or PK2?

as for new BL spec class motors releasing or yet to come. it comes down to drivers putting unneccessary pressure on themselves to have the latest greatest. sort like the whiners who use the "sedan of the month" term loosely. too many sit on the fence waiting for "this", right before "this" comes out...they hear "that" is coming out and wait again. 6-8 months passes and they still haven't been racing. seen it out west, east, and now the midwest. basically you have to pick a point and make the jump.

this goes sorta, hand in hand with many other consumer goods in our lifetime. purchase a Plasma/LCD flat screen now and watch the new, better, BIGGER ones sell for the same price 6 months later. Computers/laptops don't think i even need to go there. is there a forum about that?
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:25 PM   #26164
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Hey Guys I am going to replace all the hardware on my RC12L4 (converted to Hyperform 12) what ballstuds do you recommend, I would like Silver or Black
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:42 PM   #26165
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Big B, When did you get the Hyperform kit? And is it new? I am just curious.
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:21 PM   #26166
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Big B, When did you get the Hyperform kit? And is it new? I am just curious.
I bought it used, it was origionaly a 12L4, it has a Hyperform 12 conversion kit. Some of the Ballstuds are worn, I am going to tear it down, and rebuild the whole thing with new hardware, mostly stainless steel, and I figured why not replace the ballstuds as well since quite a few are different colors, sizes, and threads.
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:59 AM   #26167
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
The brushless situation we will be in soon is all your fault as a consumer(speaking generally..not you in particular)

You all wanted brushless now rather than later. You want to race it now before its fully figured out so guess what...you got it.

ALL of the BL motor manufacturers are just scrambling to get you all what you want.

Geez Adrian... Sometime's you seem so bitter about things maybe I'm reading it wrong. IDK.

I don't know... was it like this with motor develp. of stock motors back int day? I don't know as I wasn't in the hobby then.

Anyway, I think I like prospect of BL motors over brushed for the ease of maintance as I am a want to be pro driver but i'm really just a hobbist.

E
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:59 PM   #26168
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IMHO, AdrianM is correct. There will be complaints on here about the pace of brushless development, the cost and how unfair it is that people are getting blown away by the factory teams. It will be even worse in Stock if anyone makes a rule trying to get the same motors into the same race (BL and BR) as the pace of development will be fast - and expensive!

When BR was developed for Stock, it was the same thing. There was a time when to keep up, a new motor every three months was the order of the day. However, it is true to say that this development was much better understood because it was all brushed, and we understood what to do with them. With brushless, people will get left behind, because of the software element, and the use of hall-effect switches on the sensored motors, and the possiblity that sensorless would be a viable option for Stock.

Personally, I am staying away until it all settles down in a couple of years. I'm often an early adopter (CDs, iPod, Mac, etc.) but those are once-only buys. With BL, it is a perpetual buy, buy, buy, until it settles down. In this case, I'll be a laggard and have some money in the bank!!
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:38 PM   #26169
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
IMHO, AdrianM is correct. There will be complaints on here about the pace of brushless development, the cost and how unfair it is that people are getting blown away by the factory teams. It will be even worse in Stock if anyone makes a rule trying to get the same motors into the same race (BL and BR) as the pace of development will be fast - and expensive!

When BR was developed for Stock, it was the same thing. There was a time when to keep up, a new motor every three months was the order of the day. However, it is true to say that this development was much better understood because it was all brushed, and we understood what to do with them. With brushless, people will get left behind, because of the software element, and the use of hall-effect switches on the sensored motors, and the possiblity that sensorless would be a viable option for Stock.

Personally, I am staying away until it all settles down in a couple of years. I'm often an early adopter (CDs, iPod, Mac, etc.) but those are once-only buys. With BL, it is a perpetual buy, buy, buy, until it settles down. In this case, I'll be a laggard and have some money in the bank!!
One of the most eloquent, and non-inflammatory posts ever on this subject.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:25 PM   #26170
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Slowerone, and Adrian,
U guys r right. It's such a pain right now with the BL growing pains. It may not be as bad for those that run mod. but for someone like me who knows that mod is a bad place for me and that stock and 19t are better. It's frustrating to not have guidelines in-line for the type of racing I like to do.

E
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:00 AM   #26171
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Hi Guys

Which website I can get the CRC GEN X at good price?

Thanks
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:16 AM   #26172
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Originally Posted by ryanrally View Post
Which website I can get the CRC GEN X at good price?
If you're racing at a lhs track BUY IT THERE!!! The "best" price on the planet is too much when your track goes under and you're stuck with a car.
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:36 AM   #26173
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Default Ball Cup

I'm looking for some good quality ball cups for steering blocks and servo saver. Who makes this ball cup in the picture?
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:39 AM   #26174
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looks like a losi or xray part. If it's xray the ball will need to be a metric size.

E
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:41 AM   #26175
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That's US standard ball there.
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