R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-06-2007, 09:24 PM   #26131
Tech Elite
 
Victor Vector's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Over Here
Posts: 2,788
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Looking for roll out on the 10.5. So far, gearing same as brushed cos the local HS don't have 35 tooth pinions. Gearing down goes slower than brushed. Not seeing the blistering speed I'd hoped for. And what's the clues to determine if the rotor is sintered or not.

Any one got the word ??

Jacko
Victor Vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2007, 10:05 PM   #26132
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 788
Default

gearing BL 13.5/10.5 motors can be a challenge. PRS www.precisionracingsystems.com makes 64P pinions up to 60 teeth. they also have 76, 80, 84 and 88 spurs in 64P.

my CEFX has a longer pod which allows the use of bigger pinions than a AE style pod.

with a readily available Kimbrough 88T spur, for AE type pod space whether 3-bolt or 4-bolt top, i have found that the Kimbrough offset axle ride height adjusters will move the axle back (lengthens wheelbase slightly) enough to allow you to run 2-3 teeth more than someone not running them.
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2007, 10:13 PM   #26133
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

PRS gears are awesome! I just got some recently for my 1/12th and I'm liking them very much.

Fast-ho...how do you think a current 13.5 would compare to a current 19T brushed? Our 1/12th class is stock to 19T and currently I run a 19T but am looking to possibly allow BL in the class if I can find a BL that will compare somewhere inbetween the stock and 19T.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2007, 10:38 PM   #26134
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 788
Default

IMO, it's hard to say without testing. the latest Pro13.5 would be slower....but over 8 min might be faster due to efficiency and near no fading? i do know you can dump with a Komodo 19T which seems faster than some
12T's that i have driven. i will throw a guess out there and say that the latest Pro13.5 from Novak may be equal to a 21/22T brushed/bearing spec motor, if they made one.

awhile back Near Kansas City there is a track where they run 4300/10.5 sedan class and a 13.5/27T class. the guys that run 10.5 are pretty much on their game. they had a 13.5 driver that won stock was .2 seconds off what the top 4300/10.5 class winner. the 13.5 would have finished 2nd in the 4300/10.5 class.

BL is a different animal vs brushed motors when it comes spec classes. Mod is were they seem more equal and it comes down to driver preference to some degree.

there are a few tracks testing/running 23T brushed motors with BL 13.5, haven't read up on what their results are?
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2007, 10:46 PM   #26135
Tech Apprentice
 
Andy12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 63
Default

Hi all. Could anyone who has run an X11 5.5 offer a starting rollout for 4200s on a smallish low grip asphalt track.

Thanks.
Andy12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 02:58 AM   #26136
Tech Adept
 
Simon M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

just got a 200mah lipo receiver battery will it last 4 x 8min heats or will i have to give it a charge half way through the day
__________________
Serpent 960
Serpent 720
Serpent S400
Serpent S120
Tamiya M03-R
www.serpentradiocontrolcars.com.au
www.smaracing.org
Simon M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 09:28 AM   #26137
Tech Master
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,154
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by t9dragon View Post
I meant to say, "Can the Corally SP12M be converted to use BSR & Jaco wheels?"
Probably, but it would be expensive, you would be better off getting the SP12X US if you want a Corally
__________________
Traxxas Slash 4x4, Team Checkpoint TC-1030 Charger and Power Supply, Team Checkpoint Lipo Balancer
Big B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 09:31 AM   #26138
Tech Elite
 
Mr. Shookie's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: The Wilderness
Posts: 4,713
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Mr. Shookie Send a message via MSN to Mr. Shookie
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon M View Post
just got a 200mah lipo receiver battery will it last 4 x 8min heats or will i have to give it a charge half way through the day
I run a 200mah lipo recevier pack and find that if I don't charge it in between round that you may do damage to the lipo pack, If you are using a Novak voltage regulator than you can get away with two runs but you have to be carefull not to go lower than 6V or you can do irreversable damage to your lipo.
Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><
__________________
All who love the LORD JESUS I praise with you.1 Cor 10:31
Team HOLY Rollers (Team Manager)
The Church is a Hospital for Sinners not a Museum for Saints.
RcTech Feedback <>< RC Tech Subcriber #92
Mr. Shookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 09:32 AM   #26139
Tech Master
 
Big B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,154
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Delete Double Post
__________________
Traxxas Slash 4x4, Team Checkpoint TC-1030 Charger and Power Supply, Team Checkpoint Lipo Balancer
Big B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 09:44 AM   #26140
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,516
Default bl motors

Fast-
that's the part that bothers me about bl motors. the manuf's can seem to get there act together and produce motors to the same spec's. Like I said eariler lrp's 13.5 = 23t and novak's = 27t.

then u say that you agree that they're closer to 21t-23t than they are to 23t. as a consumer who does not waht to throw away $$. what should I buy

E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 09:59 AM   #26141
Tech Fanatic
 
TMR CHASSIS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: SRS, AZ
Posts: 953
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TMR CHASSIS
Default

Eric, the Novak isn't same as a 27t either! I know in oval 13.5 is 2-3 laps faster than a stock 27t brushed motor. Keoni ran 13.5 last time h was down @ CH and his car was faster than anyone else's stock brushed cars. So neither LRP or Novak are 27t speed. Go with Novak!!! JMO
TMR CHASSIS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 10:07 AM   #26142
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,516
Default

yeah I'll most likely get the novak. do you know if hummty was also running the 13.5? Just wondering as those guys were running low 10's at CH 2 wks ago. I only made it to mid 10's and 11.1's.

E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 11:15 AM   #26143
Tech Addict
 
clinehobbies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Maricopa, Arizona
Posts: 626
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys I am going to try and run at CH next friday what tires are you running??? and does CH have them in stock??
clinehobbies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 02:14 PM   #26144
Tech Fanatic
 
TMR CHASSIS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: SRS, AZ
Posts: 953
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TMR CHASSIS
Default

Eric, no Jeff is running a brushed stock motor. co27 or monster are what we are running. Jeff ran 10.2 last nite and I drove with my head up my A$$ 10.3 was my fastest last nite. 10.0 week before when you were there.

clinehobbies They are going to change the track next week. We are running BSR XXpink rears and XXpink/orange fronts. They don't have BSR stuff but I think they have some tires in stock. Myself, Jeff wont be down next week going to CA for oval race.

Raymond
TMR CHASSIS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 04:21 PM   #26145
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 788
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF View Post
Fast-
that's the part that bothers me about bl motors. the manuf's can seem to get there act together and produce motors to the same spec's. Like I said eariler lrp's 13.5 = 23t and novak's = 27t.

then u say that you agree that they're closer to 21t-23t than they are to 23t. as a consumer who does not waht to throw away $$. what should I buy

E
E

ROAR from what i understand is looking at rating BL spec motors by KV due to the differences by the manufactures.

i would gladly take any Novak 13.5 over any ROAR 27T brushed, i would even allow bearings.

i said previously "have run the 23T BB spec stock motors before and would have to agree the Novak EX13.5 is closer to it than to a 27T. The Pro13.5 with sintered probably faster. the Trinity XX stock with bearings don't even hold a light to a 13.5."

the Novak EX13.5 doesn't have a sintered rotor, etc. the Novak Pro13.5 has a sintered rotor, machined ribs, etc. it runs cooler and more efficient. none of of 12th road guys have tried the new version in our cars yet. based on what our oval guys ran with the sintered rotor in the 13.5, they were almost on the tail end/closing in on what 19T brushed run.

prior to the 13.5BL releasing, there is a track in Illinois where testing was done in oval pan cars. they also tested a 14.5, 16.5, etc. one racer told me that he felt the 16.5BL was the closest to a 27T brushed...in a oval car.

i don't know where sedans with the 13.5, and other BL winds were tested at? obviously the 13.5 was selected when it came down to it.

SWTour in California has been testing different Novak BL winds, from what i've read...i beleive they are going to go with a 17.5BL

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 07-07-2007 at 04:34 PM.
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:59 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0