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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-06-2007, 10:13 AM   #26116
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Originally Posted by KMR View Post
Eric,

I have been running the GTB 4cell and 13.5 in my 1/12th scale and the Normal GTB in sedan with no issues for months. The 13.5 is very similar to stock 27t but it doesn’t have as much drag as a brushed motor. I personally like running it at CH because it frees up more time in between rounds to work on my cars and I don’t have to worry about cutting arms Just get one! You will not regret it!

FYI- No racing this week…all my stuff is being shipped up to Seattle for the Nats. Ill let Humpty and Raymond beat-up on each this week…Raymond I heard you broke 10.0s at CH…That’s fricken fast bro! See ya in a couple weeks.

Keoni
I'll most likely pick one up later this summer

I didn't run low 10's but I almost won if it were'nt for lapped traffic.

E
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:28 AM   #26117
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Pardon me for asking, but is the 13.5 from Novak, ROAR legal for racing in a stock class? Just wondering about it.
No not yet, but you can use it at our club races. No one will have a problem.
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:32 AM   #26118
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Flame suit..........Check.............Flame proof helmet............Check..........boots...........c heck.................gloves............check...... ..

I run 1/10 TC and would like to start 1/12 pan for the winter so far I have narrowed it down to 2 kits....

CRC Gen X and Corally SP12X

Any major issues with either of these kits I should be aware of?

With the foam tires, do you have to have a tire truer or will folks tru tires for you? at least until I decide that it will be a permanent part of my racing
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:40 AM   #26119
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Originally Posted by GCracker View Post
Flame suit..........Check.............Flame proof helmet............Check..........boots...........c heck.................gloves............check...... ..

I run 1/10 TC and would like to start 1/12 pan for the winter so far I have narrowed it down to 2 kits....

CRC Gen X and Corally SP12X

Any major issues with either of these kits I should be aware of?

With the foam tires, do you have to have a tire truer or will folks tru tires for you? at least until I decide that it will be a permanent part of my racing
I have not driven those cars, but I know that the CRC is a link style car and the Corally SP12X is a T-Plate car, which are two completely different designs. From what I understand the link style car is better suited for carpet and the T-Plate cars are best for asphalt. Lately companies have been comming out with pre-trued tires, so a tire truer isn't needed, but it is good to have, since you can reface and true your tires, so you get a better and longer life out of them. Hope that helps,
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:45 AM   #26120
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See Its always a good idea to post and check wasnt even aware that there were design differences will acquire a CRC and play a bit Thanks Steve for the feedback
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Old 07-06-2007, 12:41 PM   #26121
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Originally Posted by GCracker View Post
Flame suit..........Check.............Flame proof helmet............Check..........boots...........c heck.................gloves............check...... ..

I run 1/10 TC and would like to start 1/12 pan for the winter so far I have narrowed it down to 2 kits....

CRC Gen X and Corally SP12X

Any major issues with either of these kits I should be aware of?

With the foam tires, do you have to have a tire truer or will folks tru tires for you? at least until I decide that it will be a permanent part of my racing
The Gen X is great for carpet I hear, if your local track dosent have a truer for racers to use, I am sure someone will true your tires for you for the small nominal fee of a pop or candybar
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Old 07-06-2007, 01:01 PM   #26122
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Has anyone found some velcro battery straps that will work with a 1/12th T-Bar style car?
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Old 07-06-2007, 01:27 PM   #26123
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I believe they existed, I still wouldn't trust them. Cloth stretches, and hook and loop can come unfastened in a heavy enough impact (this happens even to the best drivers). At least if the tape rips, it will remain stuck to the pack for a while... Tape is not that bad once you get used to it.
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Old 07-06-2007, 01:49 PM   #26124
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PureTech used to make them I believe...however velcro straps are generally too thick to usin in 1/12th and drag on the ground alot eventually ripping. Dan's had a cinch strap that I liked better and was more durable but still a bit thick for 1/12th.
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:08 PM   #26125
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Originally Posted by GCracker View Post
Flame suit..........Check.............Flame proof helmet............Check..........boots...........c heck.................gloves............check...... ..

I run 1/10 TC and would like to start 1/12 pan for the winter so far I have narrowed it down to 2 kits....

CRC Gen X and Corally SP12X

Any major issues with either of these kits I should be aware of?

With the foam tires, do you have to have a tire truer or will folks tru tires for you? at least until I decide that it will be a permanent part of my racing
Where I drive 1/12th there's a lot of Corally's and they drive really fine... untill you hit something real hard and one of those dumb aluminum parts bend/tweak... these cost a lot of money to replace...

I personally drive GenX and I'm very happy with it, and even if I were to break a front suspension part. What do the arms cost?? 4€???
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:17 PM   #26126
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See Its always a good idea to post and check wasnt even aware that there were design differences will acquire a CRC and play a bit Thanks Steve for the feedback
The Gen. X is fabulous, parts quality is excellent and the kits a SOLID performer on track. Some club tracks have a community truer, and if they don't there's usually someone there who'll let you borrow one, or may even true a set up for you for a coke or something.
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Old 07-06-2007, 05:38 PM   #26127
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Can the Corally SP12X be converted to use BSR & Jaco wheels?
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Old 07-06-2007, 06:06 PM   #26128
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Can the Corally SP12X be converted to use BSR & Jaco wheels?
If you buy th SP12X US it is already setup for US standard wheels
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Old 07-06-2007, 08:48 PM   #26129
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I meant to say, "Can the Corally SP12M be converted to use BSR & Jaco wheels?"
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Old 07-06-2007, 09:14 PM   #26130
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Originally Posted by EricF View Post
that's cool. I think later this summer I'm going to pick up a new 1/12 (bmi-db12r) and the novak gtb4 cell with the 13.5 (stock) and run that this fall.

If I like it I'll most likely also pick up a 6 cell gtb with the 10.5 (19t) and run that in my sedan.

But we'll see. I still kind of waiting to see how the whole BL motor thing is going to plato for standard motor sizes to replace/ equal stock and 19t. I know has their offers in but lrp says their motor is similar to a 23t w.t.f. Why can't they come out w/ something in the same semi establish ballpark??

E
E, if you remember when the 4300/10.5 was run in stock at HT. that's because it was originally toughted by Novak as a 27T equivilent. caused problems with the oval guys till they moved it into 19T class.

in the midwest, under BRL rules, when that motor was a ugraded rotor, larger bearing, endbell, it became faster than a 19T. once the sintered rotor was allowed 19T was dead in oval...couldn't keep up.

we haven't started running BL 13.5 in our 12th stock class yet. but we have done some closed door testing. 27T fast laps were 8.6 thru 8.9. a EX13.5 without a sintered rotor dropped right into the 7.4's. we were like...WOW. it was weird having a car geared 40/88 with 1.800 rears.
should have expected it. when our oval guys started running 13.5's, they added first 3 and later 5 laps to the track record as they figured gearing.

i have run the 23T BB spec stock motors before and would have to agree the Novak EX13.5 is closer to it than to a 27T. The Pro13.5 with sintered probably faster. the Trinity XX stock with bearings don't even hold a light to a 13.5.
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