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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-27-2007, 07:20 PM   #25996
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Nice work as usual Jason. Are you going to solder up from the top or the bottom? What compensations to the diff/axle are going to take place make up for the pod plate being moved over 2mm?

I know that when I made my "one off" brushless rear pod, I had to come up with 3.6mm towards the diff to center up. That required a new right side diff hub, upper and lower plates and a little delrin work to make my thrust kit work. Since I have run it, I did find that the tire wear has leveled out side to side. Acceleration tracked straight. And it cornered simetrically. Otherwise, it worked just fine. I will never build this conversion, so someone like yourself may as well take the reigns and run with it. For the guys who want to run brushed... sell them a 3.6mm spacer! Simple!!!

I wish that we could get away from the ride adjusters. That method is way over due for a revamp. Some kind of clicker, cam, gizmo.... something so that the axle did not have to come appart and was quick to change. I had something 15 years ago that did just that.... might have to revisit that idea.

Keep up the good work.

Brian-www.slapmastertools.com
All BMI cars have rear pods that are 2mm narrower than most other cars. Right now we run 1.5mm of axles shims per side to get our cars to 172mm. Making the pod wider will make it the same size as all other cars.

The goal is to allow others to use this rear pod as an upgeade for any RC12L4 based car.
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Old 06-27-2007, 07:27 PM   #25997
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Nice rear end Are the ride height adjusters "lowered" like the IRS pod to allow small diamater tires to be used?
they are lowered enough that you can run big wheel tires down to plastic and wraps down to the wrap without a problem
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Old 06-27-2007, 07:30 PM   #25998
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Nice work as usual Jason. Are you going to solder up from the top or the bottom? What compensations to the diff/axle are going to take place make up for the pod plate being moved over 2mm?

I know that when I made my "one off" brushless rear pod, I had to come up with 3.6mm towards the diff to center up. That required a new right side diff hub, upper and lower plates and a little delrin work to make my thrust kit work. Since I have run it, I did find that the tire wear has leveled out side to side. Acceleration tracked straight. And it cornered simetrically. Otherwise, it worked just fine. I will never build this conversion, so someone like yourself may as well take the reigns and run with it. For the guys who want to run brushed... sell them a 3.6mm spacer! Simple!!!

I wish that we could get away from the ride adjusters. That method is way over due for a revamp. Some kind of clicker, cam, gizmo.... something so that the axle did not have to come appart and was quick to change. I had something 15 years ago that did just that.... might have to revisit that idea.

Keep up the good work.

Brian-www.slapmastertools.com
my goal is to center the central mass of the brushless motor as best as possible without exotic modifications.without changing the offset of the axle i may be backed into a corner.i will see how close i can get it with the given space.thanks for the kudos bro.
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Old 06-27-2007, 08:39 PM   #25999
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Looking at geting a new 12 scale for the next racing season and trying to get the list down....

I DO NOT want a car with a T-bar, nope no-way and I want the battery packs to be all in a row, no split packs... And have spare parts available....
So I guess that narrows down the field...

Suggestions? And please no bashing... I hav ethe Hara Hammer and like it but parts are hard to come by...
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Old 06-27-2007, 08:58 PM   #26000
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer View Post
Looking at geting a new 12 scale for the next racing season and trying to get the list down....

I DO NOT want a car with a T-bar, nope no-way and I want the battery packs to be all in a row, no split packs... And have spare parts available....
So I guess that narrows down the field...

Suggestions? And please no bashing... I hav ethe Hara Hammer and like it but parts are hard to come by...

Yea that does limit the field alot; speedmerchant, CRC would seem to be your best bet. Both are proven platforms and parts are widely avalible online and at lhs. There are some interesting new cars like the one Jason has been developing but most of these prototypes are not avalible.

Chris
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:06 PM   #26001
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this summer the car will be available as will the parts.everything will be running smoothly very shortly.no more waiting game once it is launched
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:09 PM   #26002
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Jason,

Will you set up an online store? Or I have to order through LHS or dealers?
i will have an online store that you can order the cars and all the parts from as well as editable set up sheets.tech support will be available via email and phone.
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:18 PM   #26003
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i just mounted the brushless motor in the pod.the motor fits through the bottom with no removal of any parts.the sensor wire fits through the cut out on the left side.i am extremely happy with this fit.when i spread the pods a slight bit further apart,the motor will be extremely easy to get in the pod.i mounted both the LRP and Novak motors and both fit great with no disassembling required.
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:54 PM   #26004
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer View Post
Looking at geting a new 12 scale for the next racing season and trying to get the list down....

I DO NOT want a car with a T-bar, nope no-way and I want the battery packs to be all in a row, no split packs... And have spare parts available....
So I guess that narrows down the field...

Suggestions? And please no bashing... I hav ethe Hara Hammer and like it but parts are hard to come by...
Hey rick try a diggity designs cd12 I love mine it dosent tweak and no tbars its a very strong car as well the chassis is very thick.
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:00 PM   #26005
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The 3D12 is also dialed. The rear pod is very trick also.
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:01 PM   #26006
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer View Post
Looking at geting a new 12 scale for the next racing season and trying to get the list down....

I DO NOT want a car with a T-bar, nope no-way and I want the battery packs to be all in a row, no split packs... And have spare parts available....
So I guess that narrows down the field...

Suggestions? And please no bashing... I hav ethe Hara Hammer and like it but parts are hard to come by...
What surface will you be running on? If it's asphault, hate to tell you but a T-Bar chassis will work the best, or the BMI DB12R (not a T-Bar). If you don't mind me asking why does it matter if the batteries are a saddle pack style?

my suggestions for non T-Bar cars would be

CRC Generation X
BMI DB12R
Speedmerhant 4.5
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:02 AM   #26007
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Hey Jason
Why did you go-n-do that to 'em. Brah I know you told me awhile ago that the new design was gonna be sic, but DAMN
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:23 AM   #26008
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thanks bro.i cant take all the credit though,dave irrgang worked with me on coming up with them.we spent alot of time shooting ideas back and forth and the new pod assembly is the outcome.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:34 AM   #26009
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What surface will you be running on? If it's asphault, hate to tell you but a T-Bar chassis will work the best, or the BMI DB12R (not a T-Bar). If you don't mind me asking why does it matter if the batteries are a saddle pack style?

my suggestions for non T-Bar cars would be

CRC Generation X
BMI DB12R
Speedmerhant 4.5
Asphalt mostly, but a car that can adapt to both would be nice. I've seen many a battey pack "touch" when its 2x2 with a wire in the middle and they are a hassle to use.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:35 AM   #26010
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thanks bro.i cant take all the credit though,dave irrgang worked with me on coming up with them.we spent alot of time shooting ideas back and forth and the new pod assembly is the outcome.
Nevermind reading, go build the dam car so I can get one before the summer is over!!!!
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Last edited by Nova F1 Racer; 06-28-2007 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Forgot to add the smileys
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