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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-23-2007, 10:45 PM   #25921
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
oops

just wondering who here races there... wants get to kinda know whos there, so i know someone so im not a loner lol
You don't need the internet to start racing there. Its a great place to race, with a well run program and friendly people. There are many who race there that don't post here, but FYI: Crashby, JRRC, Smojoe, Still Bill (who will race 1/12 again or else) and Shurcr (owner of the track) are regular Stockton racers.

Ask somehing useful like what classes are run, what tires work etc.
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Old 06-23-2007, 10:52 PM   #25922
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You don't need the internet to start racing there. Its a great place to race, with a well run program and friendly people. There are many who race there that don't post here, but FYI: Crashby, JRRC, Smojoe, Still Bill (who will race 1/12 again or else) and Shurcr (owner of the track) are regular Stockton racers.

Ask somehing useful like what classes are run, what tires work etc.
im sending u a pm
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:01 PM   #25923
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....
What tires work? And don't say round ones; I learned the hard way after looking at my lap times using triangular tires
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:33 PM   #25924
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What tires work? And don't say round ones; I learned the hard way after looking at my lap times using triangular tires
Smojoe=comic relief

After we switched to Paragon the bite issues went away and the usual compounds worked. Grey/Purple or Pink/Magenta were fine.

And really, the only problem with the triangular tires is finding a good triangular tire truer
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:58 PM   #25925
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Smojoe=comic relief

After we switched to Paragon the bite issues went away and the usual compounds worked. Grey/Purple or Pink/Magenta were fine.

And really, the only problem with the triangular tires is finding a good triangular tire truer
Grey rears seemed to fade around the 6/7 min mark for me at the NWCC. or maybe it was just me not being used to the bloody link car
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Old 06-24-2007, 01:54 AM   #25926
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
In a week or two Schumacher USA will have RW 64p spur gears in 78, 82 and 85 teeth in addition to the 88, 92, 96 and 100 teeth 1/12th gears they already stock.

These gears were created specifically to allow 1/12th racers to get the ratios they need for 13.5 and 10.5 BL racing.

This news makes me very happy...
Please post up here when they are ready for purchase.
I already love the RW gears on my TC, and never thought about checking to see if they made 12th type.
-Shookie <><

And yes the kimbrough diff covers work for both 48 and 64 pitch gears.
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Old 06-24-2007, 07:59 AM   #25927
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And really, the only problem with the triangular tires is finding a good triangular tire truer
I've found that my bench grinder does a pretty good job. From there it depends on what sort of triangle you find runs fastest for you. While many find an equilateral triange to be the fastest on a more open track some have decided that an Isosceles triangle offers better on-power steering on tighter layouts. I've been experimenting with a scalene triangle set-up that seems promising.

And remember...right triangles are just plain wrong. The grip like a bunch of pissed-off road monkeys...for about 2 minutes.
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Old 06-24-2007, 09:55 AM   #25928
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I've found that my bench grinder does a pretty good job. From there it depends on what sort of triangle you find runs fastest for you. While many find an equilateral triange to be the fastest on a more open track some have decided that an Isosceles triangle offers better on-power steering on tighter layouts. I've been experimenting with a scalene triangle set-up that seems promising.

And remember...right triangles are just plain wrong. The grip like a bunch of pissed-off road monkeys...for about 2 minutes.
Math Geek!
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Old 06-24-2007, 10:53 AM   #25929
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Math Geek!
For that crack you don't get the magic angles on my scalene.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:16 AM   #25930
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Default novak gtx

Hi,
can anyone help me with my novak GTX ?
I'm trying to rewire it but can't solder the wires loose
(even on 420C... 710F, don't think I should go warmer uhm...!?). What do I wrong?
thanks, v12
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Old 06-24-2007, 12:03 PM   #25931
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Hi,
can anyone help me with my novak GTX ?
I'm trying to rewire it but can't solder the wires loose
(even on 420C... 710F, don't think I should go warmer uhm...!?). What do I wrong?
thanks, v12
First what type of soldering Iron are you using?

I just rewired my GTS wich is very simmilar, Novaks are not easy to rewire, but here is what I did.
After you remove the old wire, there is probably some left over solder in the holes, heat up that solder and remove it (either with a solder sucker, desoldering braid, or if you don't have those lightly tap the ESC against the table)
once you get the solder out of the holes strip and tin your new wire (be sure you twist the wire as tight as you can before tining)
to make soldering the new wire easier use a piece of servo tape to hold the ESC to the table
next place the first wire over its hole then apply heat to the bottom and push the wire through, repeat for the remaining wires

Last edited by Big B; 06-24-2007 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 06-24-2007, 12:07 PM   #25932
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Originally Posted by V12power View Post
Hi,
can anyone help me with my novak GTX ?
I'm trying to rewire it but can't solder the wires loose
(even on 420C... 710F, don't think I should go warmer uhm...!?). What do I wrong?
thanks, v12
You should have an iron of at least 50 watts, with a medium to large tip. The esc is a big heat sink and small irons will not maintain temp long enough to melt the solder. I'm not sure on the latest GTX escs, but Novak started using a higher temp solder on the GTBs and it really takes a big iron to get the wires off easily. For that I use a Hakko 456, 65 watts and over 1000 deg F.

Also, use some flux on the wires and put a little blob of solder on the iron to aid heat transfer.
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Old 06-24-2007, 02:28 PM   #25933
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For that crack you don't get the magic angles on my scalene.
Now you're just being obtuse
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Old 06-24-2007, 02:39 PM   #25934
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does the 12b body fit a 12l4 guys?

and it doesnt look like it, but does the rear of the body have fender wells? i hope not.....doesnt look like it, but somethings in person are different lol
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Old 06-24-2007, 02:40 PM   #25935
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Now you're just being obtuse
Remind me to shake your hand next time I see you. Oh, and give you the $20 or whatever I owe you
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