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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-22-2007, 03:54 PM   #25876
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There are no setup guides to buy either, best thing you can do is ask questions here and at the track
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Old 06-22-2007, 03:58 PM   #25877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie View Post
http://www.bmiracing.com/images/Link%20collage.JPG

PM protc3 for an exact price including shipping.

It comes with IRS gear which is the best center shock, axel/diff, attena mount, and servo mount. The chassis is of the best quality, you will get all the support you can want from BMI. Jason or any of the other team drivers will be there to help.
-Shookie <><
ok i will go do that... thats the best car? does it have wins at big races behind it???? EDIT, just saw his site

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There are no setup guides to buy either, best thing you can do is ask questions here and at the track
and ok... id rather ask anyways, get what i want to kow answered to my understanding
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:08 PM   #25878
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Mr.Shookie, on the IRS site where are the servo mounts?
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:19 PM   #25879
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what servos do u guys run?

fast as heck servos?

links?

whats a faster servo for somewhat cheap? like idk what price 50 or so, plus or minus a lil bit
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:23 PM   #25880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
Mr.Shookie, on the IRS site where are the servo mounts?
You know I don't know either...
Jason told me that he used IRS gear and made assummtions...Sorry
Maybe the Servo mounts are AE or another.
Like I said I had a bunch of CRC items laying around so I used it...
I got the DB12 as a conversion.......as I already had the IRS axel, attenna mount, front suspention and just about everything else. So the Conversion worked for me...
But he does offer it as a whole car........
-Shookie <><
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Last edited by Mr. Shookie; 06-22-2007 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:36 PM   #25881
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
what servos do u guys run?

fast as heck servos?

links?

whats a faster servo for somewhat cheap? like idk what price 50 or so, plus or minus a lil bit
I personally use the KO 949 as I use a KO radio and just have great luck with KO radio and accessories.
here is a link to the servo.
http://nexusracing.net/product_info....956291d4bc4485
Hope that helps....
I know there is a futaba thats a little more than 50 bucks but is suppose to be great..oops found it..LOL
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9495
-Shookie <><
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:38 PM   #25882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie View Post
Well I think the only servo worth a darn for price range is.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10550
I personally use the KO 949 as I use a KO radio and just have great luck with KO radio and accessories.
here is a link to the servo.
http://nexusracing.net/product_info....956291d4bc4485
Hope that helps....
I know there is a futaba thats a little more than 50 bucks but is suppose to be great..
-Shookie <><

the hi tec should do fine for me

thanks
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:42 PM   #25883
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
the hi tec should do fine for me

thanks
Get the futaba if thats your price line...
Hitec's can get sloppy in centering with use...
Futaba are better, from my past experciences.
-Shookie <><
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:46 PM   #25884
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Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie View Post
Get the futaba if thats your price line...
Hitec's can get sloppy in centering with use...
Futaba are better, from my past experciences.
-Shookie <><

everyone says that, but i havent had those probs....

i dont want to spend that much on a servo, idk that i will even like 12th scale, or do it as much as tc out doors
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:47 PM   #25885
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The BMI is a great car...is it the best? That remains to be seen. I'm a firm believer in that some cars just fit some drivers better. Here's my current favorite:
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:50 PM   #25886
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The BMI is a great car...is it the best? That remains to be seen. I'm a firm believer in that some cars just fit some drivers better. Here's my current favorite:


now that is FREAKIN AWSOME!!!!!

hows she drive? looks VERY well ballenced

but u need tiny electonics for that chassis lol
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Old 06-22-2007, 05:09 PM   #25887
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
how many ppl run those around here in sac?
Proud owner, but havn't ran it yet. I look forward to running it in stockton once the track opens up again.
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Old 06-22-2007, 05:32 PM   #25888
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I'm still figuring stuff about it myself but the times when I nailed the setup the car was incredibly fast...turned a lot of heads at my local track Yeah space is a bit crowded and small electronics is good to have but not absolutely necessary. They can overhang the chassis as we did back in the EV10 days.

I do plan to get a BMI as well eventually because I like that design a lot too. Not sure which of the cars I will like better. Ideally I'd like to see a cross between the 2.
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Old 06-22-2007, 05:35 PM   #25889
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Proud owner, but havn't ran it yet. I look forward to running it in stockton once the track opens up again.

cool! i will have to come down and watch

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I'm still figuring stuff about it myself but the times when I nailed the setup the car was incredibly fast...turned a lot of heads at my local track Yeah space is a bit crowded and small electronics is good to have but not absolutely necessary. They can overhang the chassis as we did back in the EV10 days.
and yeah, all i bet... and i dont like doing that... i like all the wireing o be clean and if i get hit in the side or something... theres a bunch of reasons
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Old 06-22-2007, 05:45 PM   #25890
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here is a little info about our new DB12R.

we released a small run of kits in februaryfor the snowbird nationals for its debut.we did not have very many runs with them before such a big event.the whole rear suspension is a brand new design that has never been run before and we really didnt have much time to completely land the ideal setup on it with such short notice.the car made the top 10 in the hands of Jason Schreffler who only had 1 battery through the car before racing the car at the snowbirds.i was very pleased with that.since then we have got things figured out on how to tune the rear end and what makes it fast.we have been able to exceed the capabilities of our T bar cars by leaps and bounds.now i am going to be revamping the rear pod to accomodate the brushless motors.they fit fine now but i have figured a better and more appealing way to do it.
our new rear suspension uses flex plates that give you your side spring tension.the rear flex plates attach to pivot balls on the rear pod with a central pivot ball to keep the pod square.this allows for free pivot movement forward and aft with no spring tension applied by the flex plates allowing for adjustment of the compression suspension to be done with your center shock spring.when you twist the rear pod,your flex plates will bend giving you similar spring tension of a T bar without the worries of damage.the car is self tweaking so there is no reason to even bring a tweak board to the track with you.the rear flex plates have endured serious punishment without failure or tweak. the car kit includes upgrades such as the IRS shock,Big ring diff,upper front hinge pins,battery locator plate,Boca bearings,IRS ride height adjuster set,and our all new BMI Acetel damper tubes.the car is perfectly balanced and has the rearward weight bias that you need in a 2wd 1/12th pancar.we have spent alot of time developing this car and really did manipulate the layout to achieve what we were looking for.we have really got the car working incredibly well now and look forward to this coming race season.
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