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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-17-2007, 10:54 PM   #25756
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What do you guys use for lube in your side tubes? If I soften the lube up what will this do? New to 1/12 onroad so need some help.
Thanks,
Raymond
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:44 PM   #25757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
got multi peeled in the main real bad and wound up 4th.
All your smack talk earned you that finish!

Yang and I were the only dedicated 1:12'ers this weekend. We ran spec basicly and it was fun. We had the same 13.5 motors (some what) and tires. I ran a sintered and he ran the older rotor a little taller. He was faster in the straights. We ran close to one another that it took a small mistake to cough up lot of carpet.
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Old 06-18-2007, 03:23 AM   #25758
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Hi all,

I hope someone can help me here, switched to a new servo yesterday (KO-949) and I have nothing but problems with my sphere in combo with a spektrum receiver. (quits on me, and I'm already running caps on the receiver)

I need to go with a receiver pack but what is to be recommended?? Lipo pack?? what mAh?? I found some of 120 and 240mAh.

But, when I go lipo, do I need a regulator, special lipo charger,... just for that receiver pack?? kinda expensive if I need all the gimmicks for that small pack.

Who has the experience to help me/ point me in the right direction?
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:02 AM   #25759
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Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
All your smack talk earned you that finish!

Yang and I were the only dedicated 1:12'ers this weekend. We ran spec basicly and it was fun. We had the same 13.5 motors (some what) and tires. I ran a sintered and he ran the older rotor a little taller. He was faster in the straights. We ran close to one another that it took a small mistake to cough up lot of carpet.

yeah,im sure that it was bad karma oh well,it was still fun though.the BMI cars really did do awesome.they really stood out on the track.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:47 AM   #25760
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Originally Posted by Quante View Post
Hi all,

I hope someone can help me here, switched to a new servo yesterday (KO-949) and I have nothing but problems with my sphere in combo with a spektrum receiver. (quits on me, and I'm already running caps on the receiver)
i never got that combo to work for me. rx pack or cap. I basically trew away the specktrum and all was fine. this was with the helios. I now run the same setup with a 3pk and fasst system with no problems.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:35 AM   #25761
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Well, I didnt have that problem before, just since I went for that servo.
I'm overall glad I went spektrum.

My problems kinda got better somewhat when I added an extra capacitor, but I need to be sure and I'm guesing the receiverpack can give me assurance to never let the sphere quit on me again when I'm accelerating (then its byebye...)

I also saw 1/4AAA size batteries, 120mAh or something, anyone ever tried these?
Why do I need an extra voltage regulator when using LiPo? if its the extra voltage, 2 diodes will drop it down to 6V. I also heard under 2.9V/cell was bad, with an empty pack I'd get 6V-1.4= 4.6V , would it be noticable while driving or not??
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:44 AM   #25762
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Originally Posted by Quante View Post
I also heard under 2.9V/cell was bad, with an empty pack I'd get 6V-1.4= 4.6V , would it be noticable while driving or not??
Yeah, 25% less voltage...you'd probably notice it. THAT'S why you want a regulator, same voltage at the servo start to finish means same response.

And yes, on LiPo you want to use one of the devices that prevent overdischarge.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:45 AM   #25763
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Originally Posted by TMR CHASSIS View Post
What do you guys use for lube in your side tubes? If I soften the lube up what will this do? New to 1/12 onroad so need some help.
Thanks,
Raymond
CRC makes tube specific lube, but most people run nitro diff oil. I personally use OFNA

Lighter lube generally adds steering
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:03 AM   #25764
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Originally Posted by smojoe View Post
CRC makes tube specific lube, but most people run nitro diff oil. I personally use OFNA

Lighter lube generally adds steering

irs sells sure lube in a pack of 6
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:19 AM   #25765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
Hi all,

I hope someone can help me here, switched to a new servo yesterday (KO-949) and I have nothing but problems with my sphere in combo with a spektrum receiver. (quits on me, and I'm already running caps on the receiver)
I have the Spektrum with a Ko 949 and lrp bl. I just run the cap with it that Spektrum sells seperately. It has solved my problem. You might want to try using a different speed controller that is brushed just for experiementing purposesto seeif the reciever shuts down temporarily to find out the problem. I know the Sphere pulls tomuch power to keep the reciever to shut down for just a second or so. If you are using the older reviever that has a grey case then you will need a cap or a seperate reciever pack. If you have the see through case reciever then the cap shoulb be fine enough. I have both typed of recievers for my spektrum that I have used along with my helios.
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:22 AM   #25766
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Jason, just an fyi for you and your friend that lives in Austin, Racing here at HTSA has now start at 10AM to get out of the heat quicker. Also for the Dallas guys just in case you all decide to make a trip down here to race.
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Old 06-19-2007, 10:08 AM   #25767
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Guy's I am looking for the lower pod for my CEFX EVO2 and would like to know if there is any other hobby shop that carry this item other than CEFX.NET, thanks.
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Old 06-19-2007, 12:48 PM   #25768
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Originally Posted by Ramyuras View Post
Guy's I am looking for the lower pod for my CEFX EVO2 and would like to know if there is any other hobby shop that carry this item other than CEFX.NET, thanks.
Your LHS should be able to get it, but if not try these

http://cefxraceway.net/?mainURL=/sto...b8yi/CEFX.html
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:55 PM   #25769
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I was looking at putting the IRS shock on my 12th scale, does anyone know if the threads on the spring adjusting nut are the same as the Associated?
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:02 PM   #25770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B View Post
I was looking at putting the IRS shock on my 12th scale, does anyone know if the threads on the spring adjusting nut are the same as the Associated?
Yes they are the same threads. So you can use either one on each shock.
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