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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-01-2007, 03:24 PM   #25636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Thanks guys, great expaination. So how do I setup reactive castor?
Most run the 10* castor blocks shimed one in front, one in rear. This equals around 4* static castor and 2* reactive. If the car is too hard to drive, try the 5* blocks.
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Old 06-01-2007, 05:44 PM   #25637
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hmm,the only static castor adjustment i see on the AE front end is between 2 and 4 degrees.shims centered is 3 degrees.i dont know what they claim but this is actual measurement.
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Old 06-01-2007, 08:49 PM   #25638
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Originally Posted by protc3
hmm,the only static castor adjustment i see on the AE front end is between 2 and 4 degrees.shims centered is 3 degrees.i dont know what they claim but this is actual measurement.
This from the L3 instructions.....when my shims are centered the actual static castor is 4-4.5*.
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Old 06-01-2007, 10:15 PM   #25639
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David, I won't be there next saturday to race at HTSA. I will be working, trying to make some extra $$$$. I will catch you some other time. I am not backing out.
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Old 06-02-2007, 01:55 AM   #25640
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Originally Posted by Scottrik
Unfortunately, no one here has any idea either--the tire diameter is a critical element of the roll-out puzzle.

Do yourself an ENORMOUS favor if you have a Harbor Freight in your village go there and pick up a digital caliper. A 6" caliper is almost always on sale for $16, and if it's not on sale it's a whopping $20. I've found I prefer an 8" ($30, though they're now on sale for $23!!) so I can measure overall widths, but for over 90% of your 1/12 measuring the 6" are just the ticket.

If you don't have a HF in your village you can buy online. Check the calipers

6" caliper at Harbor Freight

8" caliper at Harbor Freight

A caliper is a MUST HAVE tool. THEN you'll always know what your tire diameters are and we'll have to point you to the roll-out chart generators.
"I've found I prefer an 8" ($30, though they're now on sale for $23!!) so I can measure overall widths, but for over 90% of your 1/12 measuring the 6" are just the ticket."

But if you're OD Purple yours has to be bigger than everyone elses.
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:50 AM   #25641
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
But if you're OD Purple yours has to be bigger than everyone elses.
Oh...no worries...they've got Michael covered too. They offer the elite "OD Racing But-Mines-Bigger" version.

Check out http://http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47261 and gaze in awe at the 12" of raw and unbridled measuring power for an amazingly reasonable $34. Not for rank amateurs, this tool is for seasoned vets and bench-racers only.

I aspire to being worthy of owning one someday...
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Last edited by Scottrik; 06-02-2007 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:59 AM   #25642
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Double post
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Old 06-02-2007, 10:47 AM   #25643
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Perhaps I will have more luck here on this thread.

Anyone in Las Vegas want to get a 19 turn 1/12 scale class going again?
The IIC (September - intchamps.com) and IIC Warmup Race is coming up, and wondered if there was any interest in getting up and running on this class.

I just got my CRC Carpet Knife and all the works stuff, and want to start racing with the fast guys.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/track-locator-forum/154212-cutting-edge-indoor-r-c-las-vegas-nv-post3360930.html

Anyone? I know about 15 people in this area have them, and about 5 race them..
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Old 06-02-2007, 11:49 AM   #25644
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Oh...no worries...they've got Michael covered too. They offer the elite "OD Racing But-Mines-Bigger" version.

Check out http://http://www.harborfreight.com/...emnumber=47261 and gaze in awe at the 12" of raw and unbridled measuring power for an amazingly reasonable $34. Not for rank amateurs, this tool is for seasoned vets and bench-racers only.

I aspire to being worthy of owning one someday...
Ha Ha! I actually have a one of those

LMAO!

Willie you calm down, just cuz I showed you mine doesn't mean you have to tell everyone!
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:32 PM   #25645
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Ha Ha! I actually have a one of those

LMAO!

Willie you calm down, just cuz I showed you mine doesn't mean you have to tell everyone!
As I said, the "OD Racing But-Mine's-Bigger Elite Electro-Digital Mensuration Aparatus"

LMAO at you LYAO
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Old 06-02-2007, 04:01 PM   #25646
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Ha Ha! I actually have a one of those

LMAO!

Willie you calm down, just cuz I showed you mine doesn't mean you have to tell everyone!
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:12 AM   #25647
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I have purchased a 3.2R used and have recieved it etc. I have put a few issues with the diff. I have read that if ur diff is to tight it will torque steer on hard acceleration or on corners. This is what mine is doing and it is doing it bad. As the car came with no instructions i am unable to figure out how to tighten/loosen diff. Also, when i push one of the back wheels forward, should the other one be going the same way cause it is and on my JRX-S they spin opposite. So - How do u tighten/losen diff?
Cheers
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Old 06-03-2007, 03:08 AM   #25648
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I have purchased a 3.2R used and have recieved it etc. I have put a few issues with the diff. I have read that if ur diff is to tight it will torque steer on hard acceleration or on corners. This is what mine is doing and it is doing it bad. As the car came with no instructions i am unable to figure out how to tighten/loosen diff. Also, when i push one of the back wheels forward, should the other one be going the same way cause it is and on my JRX-S they spin opposite. So - How do u tighten/losen diff?
Cheers
Its supposed to turn the opposite way when you hold the spur gear. The big nut (red) in the right side rear wheel is what you need to loosen. The diff should be tightened until you can barely turn the spur gear by hand while the 2 rear wheels are held still.
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Old 06-03-2007, 06:24 AM   #25649
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if you accelerate and the car pulls to one side,it is the axle not being centered properly in the pod.a bad diff will amplify this problem.
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Old 06-03-2007, 12:06 PM   #25650
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If both wheels are spinning the same way when one wheel is being turned by hand, I would say not only to undo the diff nut but to probably strip the whole unit down, clean it all out and rebuild with fresh lubricant. The chances are that the person that owned the car before you has the diff so tight that the balls are now not round. You might want to replace them (and the bearings inside the hub) at the same time because the diff will feel very 'nochty' with oval balls, even with fresh lube and everything else done too.

Best advice I would give you mate is to undo the three screws that hold the wheel on, then take off the diff nut from the axle and put it on a peice of paper. Then take off the bevel washer and put that on the same piece of paper next to the nut. Next, take off the hub (with the bearings in) and put that next to the washer. Then the ring, spur gear (with bearing in it) and lastly, the other ring. If you put everything out on a piece of paper, you'll know how it goes back together once finished cleaning!

Hope thata helps a little!

All the best, Chris.
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