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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-10-2003, 07:26 PM   #2551
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Hey FUK_WRX

I got two off the sale board here, its from

TOP
Racing
Products
TR-84507
Graphite RC12L3 Chassis 4 Cell

Sorry don't have a WebSite.

Good Luck!!!

Bradley J. Gotori
bgotori@hotmail.com
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Old 03-10-2003, 11:49 PM   #2552
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Default Gearing

Hi guys. Here's another 12th scale newbie (i ve been running TC the past 5 years) question which i hope you guys can shed some light on.

How exactly do you gear a 12th scale? for a TC all i need to know is the car's internal ratio and im easily able to get the car's final drive ratio (i run rubber by the way). and being a long time TC racer, i can easily adjust my gearing depending on track layout/length.

now, in a 12th scale, i know you have to consider the fact that you run foams and tire diameters change. is there any guidelines and formulas you can give me? i'll be purchasing a 12L3 so standard formulas would also be of help.

another thing, if lets say a final drive ratio of around 6.6 (using - spur/pinon x internal ratio) in a TC is ideal for a particular track i run on, should i be looking for a similar gear ratio/roll out when i run a 12th scale on that very same track?

... i hope that question makes sense. sorry if it sounds stupid, but like i said im really new to this class. i just want to have a fairly good idea of where to start. I dont wanna be frying my all motors while looking for a good gear ratio.
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Old 03-11-2003, 06:09 AM   #2553
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Im also pretty new to 12th, used to run an old associated but now i run the yokomo. 12th scale motors really dont get hot, maybe warm. what ive been doing is gearing so i dump a little after the race, enough for some more laps to be sure i get run time. i would also be interested to hear how to calculate gear ratios depending on tire size and all that stuff.
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Old 03-11-2003, 06:59 AM   #2554
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Default Rollout Calculator

Rollout is the most commonly used formula to properly gear a motor. Here is the formula for a direct drive car:

tire diameter X pi (3.14) x pinion / spur

ex.

48mm x 3.14 x 27 / 100 = 40.69 mm

For a stock motor you should run between 38 and 46. The new Trinity Monster Stock motors like a very low rollout - around 40 where as the older P2K2 liked a rollout between 42 and 45.

The smaller the track the smaller your rollout should be so you can get the motor to rev quicker and have adequate torque in the corners.

Not sure on rollout calculations for a modified motor as I only run stock and just started racing 1/12th scale again this January.

Regards

Bob Zahn
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Old 03-11-2003, 09:26 AM   #2555
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Quote:
Originally posted by bgotori
Hey Trips

Thanks for the pics, that helps

Mine looks like the pic on top. The 12L3 that I have has a wider bolt pattern than the 12L I have. So an Newer OLD SKOOL front end will fit my 12L3???
Brad,

Yes, the newer "old skool" front end should fit your 12L3 just fine.

T
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Old 03-11-2003, 09:39 AM   #2556
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cracker78
Just a curious thought, but I was always under the assumption that one would want as small a turning radius as possible. What is the motivation behind having a turning radius of any size other than the smallest?
Cracker,

In addition to making the car very twitchy as rayhuang mentioned earlier, you'll find that too much steering throw will actually reduce the amount of steering at high speeds. There's an optimum steering angle beyond which the front tires won't develop any more side force, they'll just scrub instead. You'll have to get slower for the car to turn with the extra throw, the tires at that point are acting more like plows than tires.

In mod racing, this will cause a loss of corner speed and you'll have to drive harder on the straights to keep up. Usually you have to drive harder enough that you dump at 7 minutes or so.

In stock racing you just lose 3 or 4 tenths per lap because with everyone having essentially the same horsepower, the guys who can carry more speed thru the corner carry more speed out of the corner and down the straights.

When you get a chassis working well with less steering throw, you're on your way to the A.

T
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Last edited by Trips; 03-11-2003 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 03-11-2003, 07:11 PM   #2557
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Hey Trips


Thanks!!!


Bradley J. Gotori
bgotori@hotmail.com
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Old 03-11-2003, 09:28 PM   #2558
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Hey For the guy that wants a 4 cell 12L3 chassis


Theres one on Ebay right now!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=2565


Good luck!!!

Bradley J. Gotori
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Old 03-11-2003, 09:53 PM   #2559
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Thanks Bobby/bab!
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Old 03-11-2003, 10:13 PM   #2560
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Scrad...i was prolly at the end of the table you were pitting on i had the white-pink flamed car with the gold colored rear end...i was like middle of the A main i think...cant remember that far back...hehe...i pit on the same table as Phil but on the opposite end
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Old 03-11-2003, 10:49 PM   #2561
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Trips: How do you determine the optimum steering throw? I think the concept might have alot of merit for me....Thanks...LC

A second thought: How would you set it up on a fast asphalt roadcourse with a tight infield? Would you just have to be more disiplined on the faster sections by not turning the radio wheel to the stops in the fast sweepers? Your thoughts?
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Old 03-12-2003, 12:18 AM   #2562
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For me, it's a roughly 4 foot diameter turning diameter at a slow creep. I know it seems like it would never be enough to get around the track at speed, but when the car is working, this amount of throw is plenty for even the tightest hairpins. I always try to get the chassis working right with this amount of steering throw, if it's not enough I'll go stiffer in the rear or maybe a little softer on front springs or more traction on the front tires.

The idea is to free up the rear of the car enough to work with this amount of throw, not to have to dial in more steering deflection.


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Old 03-12-2003, 12:26 AM   #2563
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Default Re: 12 Scale cars ???

Quote:
Originally posted by Hooked
I am interested in getting into 12 scale and need some advice on which car to buy ...

I currently race a nearly Factory Team TC3 in stock and would like to run 2 classes.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thnx
Anyone ??? WHat would be a good car to start out with ???
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Old 03-12-2003, 12:44 AM   #2564
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Hooked, the RC12L3 would get my vote as a good begginer car. Easy and forgiving to drive and setup, but still a very fast car. There are a few nice ones on ebay for sale if you are looking to buy one.

Last edited by HYDRAMATIC99; 03-13-2003 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 03-12-2003, 05:59 AM   #2565
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Default ANYONE HAVE THE TOP RACING 4 CELL CONVERSION FOR 12L3?

Hello everyone

hey bgotori thanks lot for all the info about the four cell conversion set.

Is anyone selling that top racing conversion? pls pm me cause im sure we can work a deal out.
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