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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-30-2007, 05:58 AM   #25621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
You can slide the battery about 8mm forward if you want to but I can't imagine why anyone would do that.
I think that applies to all 1/12's, I tried it .... not good! All the way back here.
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:45 AM   #25622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
I think that applies to all 1/12's, I tried it .... not good! All the way back here.
There are times when it can be advantageous. On an extremely high-bite track, if your car is very edgy, and always wants to traction roll in high-speed corners, moving the battery forward can reduce initial weight transfer on corner entry and not load up the outside front as much, greatly reducing the cars tendency to traction roll, without taking away too much steering by reducing the amount of mechanical grip the front suspension can generate. At least that's been my experience.
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Old 05-30-2007, 03:34 PM   #25623
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that is very true.at the snowbirds i ran the batteries forward on the car for this reason.it adds on power steering and takes away initial steering or edgy feel when entering a corner.i added this adjustment for this reason.for most normal conditions,carpet and asphalt,i run them to the back.high bite carpet is a whole different bag o snails.
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Old 05-30-2007, 06:34 PM   #25624
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That may have been my problem when I raced at Hobbyplex, the traction was extremely high. I ran my pack all the way back. I understand the explanation.... thanks.
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Old 05-31-2007, 02:14 PM   #25625
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hi i wanted to ask you one question can a Futaba S9451 Servo Digital High-Speed/Torque can be installed a calandra 3.1.
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Old 05-31-2007, 04:20 PM   #25626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamSkitz06
hi i wanted to ask you one question can a Futaba S9451 Servo Digital High-Speed/Torque can be installed a calandra 3.1.
Yes. I can help you with that at the track this week.
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:25 PM   #25627
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Just wondering, i just got a CRC 3.2R, i have a peak vantage 12x2 motor in it at the monment and with a 74 tooth spur i have no idea where to start with the pinion. Its a medium length, tight asphalt track and im running TEAM CRC - TRACK MAGNETS - 12th mntd Pink Rear tires,(Dunno what diametre they are). Thanks all
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Old 05-31-2007, 10:39 PM   #25628
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Unfortunately, no one here has any idea either--the tire diameter is a critical element of the roll-out puzzle.

Do yourself an ENORMOUS favor if you have a Harbor Freight in your village go there and pick up a digital caliper. A 6" caliper is almost always on sale for $16, and if it's not on sale it's a whopping $20. I've found I prefer an 8" ($30, though they're now on sale for $23!!) so I can measure overall widths, but for over 90% of your 1/12 measuring the 6" are just the ticket.

If you don't have a HF in your village you can buy online. Check the calipers

6" caliper at Harbor Freight

8" caliper at Harbor Freight

A caliper is a MUST HAVE tool. THEN you'll always know what your tire diameters are and we'll have to point you to the roll-out chart generators.
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:04 PM   #25629
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Ok ive measured and there 48mm. What is a good rollout/gear ratio for a 12x2 on a crc 3.2r and how do u calculate it (IS there a site)?. Thanks all
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:24 PM   #25630
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Overall tire diameter times pi divided by gear ratio (spur divided by pinion) gives roll out. Your known variables are tire diameter, pi, and spur. We need to decide on a roll-out and choose a pinion.

I've not done any real "brushed" mod racing, preferring to run brushless in mod. I gear my 19T and stock in the mid-high 40's for roll-out, but when I'm trying something new I prefer to be a little conservative and sneak up on the right combo. So let's say 40mm is the desired roll-out, just for argument's sake...if anyone disagrees please speak right up!

So, 48mm diameter times pi (3.14159, or 22/7, your choice) gives a circumference of approx 150.8mm. Now we need to find what one would divide 150.8 by to give 40 (remember that crazy Commutative Property of Multiplication? It works for division too!)...the answer is to divide 150.8 BY 40, which yields 3.77. Similarly, if we divide 74 by 3.77 we get a pinion of 19.62. That .62 tooth plays HELL with spur gear life, so you'll find that 19 teeth is a bit under 40mm rollout and 20 teeth is a bit above.

Now...during your race day you need to monitor the tire diameter. As the diameter decreases you need to increase the pinon tooth count to compensate and hold the rollout at the desired dimension.

Another "hint"...use 64P gears for 1/12. Not only are they more efficient, they'll also give closer gear selections as a tooth either way on, say, a 28-tooth pinion is a much finer increment of adjustment than a tooth either way on a 20-tooth pinion.

hth. Hopefully someone will point to the site(s) that have gearing calculators. I use the Excell-based one Blake posted some time back and have it downloaded to my computer.

Scottrik
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:27 PM   #25631
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gearchart.com has one
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:32 PM   #25632
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Thanks for ur help scotrik and all, ur great help.
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Old 06-01-2007, 12:13 AM   #25633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi guy
It reduces caster at turn in and increases at exit, it can cause tire scrub and slow you down in a turn if not setup right.
Thanks guys, great expaination. So how do I setup reactive castor?
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Old 06-01-2007, 12:20 AM   #25634
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Hi guys,

I am pleased to announce that the 1/12 Carpet Ripper upgrade kits will finally be available within couple of weeks! The kits will be send to those who have pre-ordered right after last parts will arrive.

Due to delay with few items from subcontractors the shipping is late from the date informed earlier (the end of the May). I am sure that the waiting has been worth it

More info including photos of the spare parts and the production version of the kit will be available at the homepage www.v-dezign.net shortly.

If you havent ordered yours yet, you can do it by contacting me by email at vesa@v-dezign.net. Also for pricelist and availability, please email me.

The website has been updated lately, check some new photos and news on the News section and photos from Paintings > Team drivers section.

regards,
Vesa
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Old 06-01-2007, 04:19 AM   #25635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Thanks guys, great expaination. So how do I setup reactive castor?
the thing i found is that the 10 degree blocks work best everywhere.i always start at 2 degrees of static castor and i will increase the static if need be.usually 2 degrees does the trick.if you want more on power steering and less off power you can always add static castor up to 4 degrees to accomodate with shims.
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