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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-29-2007, 09:14 AM   #25576
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In excellent condition w/ big ring graphite axle--no more than $100

With the old yellow fiberglass axle and/or plastic left side plate maybe $50-60

With the small ring graphite axle and lowered ally plates maybe $70-85

Seems to be where they've been selling the last several months. And these are ALL supposed to be in excellent used condition.

pm me if you're interested...I've got a built/never run 3.2R to sell.
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:29 AM   #25577
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Default GET PAID TO DEMONSTRATE NITRO RC VEHICLES!!

Still looking for someone to travel with a mobile marketing tour for a RC vehicle which will be following the Vans Warped Tour. This is a nicely paid 8 week gig! Starting in the next two weeks and wrapping up July 29th! Need some experienced RC drivers to demonstrate the vehicles to crowds of people! Please call me ASAP if interested for more details at 314-997-0101 x 220 or send me an e-mail to julie.doherty@promotion1.com.
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:30 AM   #25578
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Still looking for someone to travel with a mobile marketing tour for a RC vehicle which will be following the Vans Warped Tour. This is a nicely paid 8 week gig! Starting in the next two weeks and wrapping up July 29th! Need some experienced RC drivers to demonstrate the vehicles to crowds of people! Please call me ASAP if interested for more details at 314-997-0101 x 220 or send me an e-mail to julie.doherty@promotion1.com.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:17 AM   #25579
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I'm reading over-rc's 1994 Pro10 World article (http://www.overrc.com/vintage/course...sonnenberg.htm) . All the sudden I found DB12R isn't using an unproofed U-bar design, it acturally used 23yrs ago by Yokomo YRX-10 prototype.

So this brings me a question: what's major different between longitudinal battery placement vs horizontal battery placement???? As there is only a few kit using longitudinal battery placement in 1/12 right now.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:27 AM   #25580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julie.doherty@p
Still looking for someone to travel with a mobile marketing tour for a RC vehicle which will be following the Vans Warped Tour. This is a nicely paid 8 week gig! Starting in the next two weeks and wrapping up July 29th! Need some experienced RC drivers to demonstrate the vehicles to crowds of people! Please call me ASAP if interested for more details at 314-997-0101 x 220 or send me an e-mail to julie.doherty@promotion1.com.
"GET PAID TO DEMONSTRATE NITRO RC VEHICLES!" There lies the problem; the old folks that run 12th don't like the smell of nitro. Thats if they can smell anything at all..

just out of curiosity, which company is it for? please email me at stervin@gmail.com if you can as to not get this thread that much further off topic.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:45 PM   #25581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
I'm reading over-rc's 1994 Pro10 World article (http://www.overrc.com/vintage/course...sonnenberg.htm) . All the sudden I found DB12R isn't using an unproofed U-bar design, it acturally used 23yrs ago by Yokomo YRX-10 prototype.

So this brings me a question: what's major different between longitudinal battery placement vs horizontal battery placement???? As there is only a few kit using longitudinal battery placement in 1/12 right now.
That's 13 years ago...and the car did make it to production. As I understand it an inline battery will have less tendency for chassis roll and has more weight on the front axle and less weight on the rear axle in comparison to a car with a cross wise mounted battery.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:16 PM   #25582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
I'm reading over-rc's 1994 Pro10 World article (http://www.overrc.com/vintage/course...sonnenberg.htm) . All the sudden I found DB12R isn't using an unproofed U-bar design, it acturally used 23yrs ago by Yokomo YRX-10 prototype.

So this brings me a question: what's major different between longitudinal battery placement vs horizontal battery placement???? As there is only a few kit using longitudinal battery placement in 1/12 right now.
I used to race one of those cars and won my first big race with one back in 96. The inline batteries were supposed to let the car transition faster in the S sections. And the U bar didn't have much of a memory effect, not sure if this is true though. I eventually went back to the 10L2 with it's simpler front and rear ends, very similar to todays 1/12 cars. With the bigger 10th scale cars you could run the batteries in the center which effectively free'd up the rear end and gained some steering, of course this is all "in theory". Trinity won the 94 1/10 worlds with their EV10 (batteries center).

I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen on in real life. Would someone like to chime in On a super high bite surface it might be quite good.

Don't flame me it's just my opinion
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:24 PM   #25583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen on in real life. Would someone like to chime in On a super high bite surface it might be quite good.

Don't flame me it's just my opinion
?? you havent seen it but you are assuming that is not a good car I seen that car in the hands of Jason (protc3)Tim Potter and Adrian Martinez and that car is fast in almost every track in Florida, I own one too but i havent ran it lately
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:26 PM   #25584
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
?? you havent seen it but you are assuming that is not a good car I seen that car in the hands of Jason (protc3)Tim Potter and Adrian Martinez and that car is fast in almost every track in Florida, I own one too but i havent ran it lately
It is called arm chair engineering.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:51 PM   #25585
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It is called arm chair engineering.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:59 PM   #25586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I used to race one of those cars and won my first big race with one back in 96. The inline batteries were supposed to let the car transition faster in the S sections. And the U bar didn't have much of a memory effect, not sure if this is true though. I eventually went back to the 10L2 with it's simpler front and rear ends, very similar to todays 1/12 cars. With the bigger 10th scale cars you could run the batteries in the center which effectively free'd up the rear end and gained some steering, of course this is all "in theory". Trinity won the 94 1/10 worlds with their EV10 (batteries center).

I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen on in real life. Would someone like to chime in On a super high bite surface it might be quite good.

Don't flame me it's just my opinion
OK I'm confused. The DB12R has the batteries running side to side like a SpeedMerchant or Carpet Knife. The cars with the longitudinal battery placement are the Diggity and Darkside. I think the first post was in reference to the dual t bar arraingement on the Yokomo in comparison to the 'L' bar set up on the BMI (DB12R)
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:37 PM   #25587
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Actually the car works well in low bite situations ( which I have run it in). It responds well to oil, spring and Flex plate changes. I am still getting familiar with it, but prefer it to my old Tplate car ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by P2

I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen on in real life. Would someone like to chime in On a super high bite surface it might be quite good.

Don't flame me it's just my opinion
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Old 05-29-2007, 05:40 PM   #25588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
I'm reading over-rc's 1994 Pro10 World article (http://www.overrc.com/vintage/course...sonnenberg.htm) . All the sudden I found DB12R isn't using an unproofed U-bar design, it acturally used 23yrs ago by Yokomo YRX-10 prototype.

So this brings me a question: what's major different between longitudinal battery placement vs horizontal battery placement???? As there is only a few kit using longitudinal battery placement in 1/12 right now.
actually that is much different from what i use.that is a fixed u plate that will perform exactly like a t bar from flex stand points.that u plate does not free pivot and does not isolate front and side spring tension.my rear end utilizes 3 pivot balls on the rear of the flex plates that have fixed mounting locations where they mount at the front which allow it to free pivot forward without flexing the plates at all.when you twist the rear pod it flexes the plates and also eliminates rear steer that would normally be created by 2 seperate flextures working off a central pivot.this design was not inspired by the u plate in the slightest.the u plate desgin did not work very well.
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Last edited by protc3; 05-29-2007 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 05-29-2007, 05:42 PM   #25589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
I used to race one of those cars and won my first big race with one back in 96. The inline batteries were supposed to let the car transition faster in the S sections. And the U bar didn't have much of a memory effect, not sure if this is true though. I eventually went back to the 10L2 with it's simpler front and rear ends, very similar to todays 1/12 cars. With the bigger 10th scale cars you could run the batteries in the center which effectively free'd up the rear end and gained some steering, of course this is all "in theory". Trinity won the 94 1/10 worlds with their EV10 (batteries center).

I haven't seen a DB12R on the track but would suspect that it shouldn't work well on very loose tracks, due to not enough weight on the rear end. I'm not saying it's not a good car, I just haven't seen on in real life. Would someone like to chime in On a super high bite surface it might be quite good.

Don't flame me it's just my opinion
the battery placement on the DB12 R is identicle to my T bar car as far as rearward location which is further back than the stock L4.it also has the option to move them forward but i dont use it.
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Old 05-29-2007, 05:43 PM   #25590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
I'm reading over-rc's 1994 Pro10 World article (http://www.overrc.com/vintage/course...sonnenberg.htm) . All the sudden I found DB12R isn't using an unproofed U-bar design, it acturally used 23yrs ago by Yokomo YRX-10 prototype.

So this brings me a question: what's major different between longitudinal battery placement vs horizontal battery placement???? As there is only a few kit using longitudinal battery placement in 1/12 right now.
I have seen that car in person. Its nothing like Jason's car. The Yok Proto had the read pod directly mounted to the U shaped flex plate.

On the DB12R the pod is mounted to 2 seperate L-shaped flex links with pivot balls. The DB12R is completely free moving fore and aft and has side to side spring from the flex links. This is the key to the design. You can isolate fore and aft and side to side spring rates and tune each to any surface. Also the flex links are super progressive in spring rate. Near level there is no spring rate so the car is tweak free but the more the rear pod rolls the stiffer it gets and this gives a ton of steering.

As far as battery placment. Length wise works on a 1/10th car but its is not ideal in a 1/12th car. In a 1/12th car the batts need to be as far back as possible to allow the car to transfer weight fore and aft on and off power. This is on any surface. This is less of an issue on carpet as you need less steering than on asphalt but it still applies.
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