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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 03-09-2003, 03:03 PM   #2536
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Anyone selling a switchblade, 12L3, Yokomo, or Rev 3?
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Old 03-09-2003, 05:31 PM   #2537
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Hey guys, I need some help.

I have a 2 month old RC12L3. Ive been racing it, and having an absolute blast. My problem is in setting it up. It always seems to be pushing. I tried the .075 Tplate, and the third screw, and I stiffened the rear spring. When I run it now, it steers well, and I like it. The problem is, it seems like Im getting killed in the corners. Some of the fast guys have been telling me that the car looks too twitchy. I took some toe out of it, its at 0 to -.5 right now. SAo my problem is, I want more steering, but less twitchy. Is that possible?

My setup:
2mm ride height all around
Camber set for even ride height
upper arm in middle of the thing, 1 spacer on either side.
.18 springs
10 degree caster block
0 degree toe
1/2 tire doped
Gold spring
40 wt oil
Preload set for 0 sag
AE diff lube on damper discs
medium roll stop insert
.075 T Plate
All 3 screws in the Tplate
Offset rear axle mounts
Full tire doped

Tires: Puprle/grey
I am running on med bite carpet

Any help would be much appreciated
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Old 03-09-2003, 06:39 PM   #2538
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Originally posted by bgotori
Hey Trips

I'm not really sure now??? The guy I bought it from (3yrs ago) said it was a 12L, and all the track I get parts from back East just say here, with the parts... The parts aren't Associated I believe, because they have No lable tag, just plastic bag... All the guys have to dig around in the back to get them...

So the Newer old skool front end will fit the 12L3 front end??? If so that front end is a 12L old skool front end???

Here's an original 12L:

Here's a 12LW:

The first uses an older style front end than the newer 12L series cars, but the one you see on the second picture is pretty much the "old skool" front end we're still using today. By the way, if you have the car in the first picture, the "newer" "old skool" front end should be a bolt-on, just get some shorter front body posts, like on the car in the second pic.


Last edited by Trips; 03-09-2003 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 03-09-2003, 06:51 PM   #2539
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RC Paperboy:

IT sounds like you have several things working against you. First thing you should try to remember, is that you rarely have too little steering with a 1/12 scale car. Nine times out of ten, when you think you need more steering, the problem is you have too much.

From your description, I'd suggest these changes:

First, raise the ride height from 2mm to something reasonable like 3.5 or even 4mm. If your chassis is touching the track during cornering (and at 2mm ride height I promise you it is) it'll kill any traction you might get in the corner. Look for dark residue on the bottom edges of your chassis. If you have ANY, you're too low.

Next, get rid of the roll stop insert. I haven't yet raced on a track where it helped, I'm betting you're not on one either.

Finally, when you put your car on the track, get it moving at the slowest creep possible and check the turning diameter in both directions at a slow crawl. It should be equal in both directions, and no smaller than a 4 foot diameter circle, with five maybe even better.

Try everything I've mentioned, and I'll bet your car works great.

Let me know...

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Old 03-09-2003, 07:23 PM   #2540
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Thanks Trips, Ill try that. The reason that I suspected too little steering was that in the sweeper, I was having to go to full lock, and I was getting killed by other cars. My D/R is at 95%. I think I will be at the track sometime this week, so Ill try then.

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Old 03-09-2003, 08:42 PM   #2541
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Yup, a car will be awful in sweepers when it's too low, it'll start to turn and then just do a sort of "whole car push" thing as the chassis touches down and steals all the grip from the tires.

Once the ride height is where it should be I'm betting you won't need nearly as much steering throw.

Good luck,

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Old 03-09-2003, 08:57 PM   #2542
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Default 12 Scale cars ???

I am interested in getting into 12 scale and need some advice on which car to buy ...

I currently race a nearly Factory Team TC3 in stock and would like to run 2 classes.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thnx
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Old 03-09-2003, 08:59 PM   #2543
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Hey Trips

Thanks for the pics, that helps

Mine looks like the pic on top. The 12L3 that I have has a wider bolt pattern than the 12L I have. So an Newer OLD SKOOL front end will fit my 12L3???


Bradley J. Gotori

Last edited by bgotori; 03-10-2003 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 03-09-2003, 09:20 PM   #2544
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where can i get a good price for a brand new Trinity 2002 Spashett 1/12th scale car? i dont feel like paying over 200 for a tiny car.....i know ebay might but id rather buy from a dealer or something thanks in advance
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Old 03-10-2003, 07:14 AM   #2545
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RideRed, where do you usually race at? RoadRage or do you go down to Oshkosh? I usually race in Oshkosh on Friday nights.
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Old 03-10-2003, 08:42 AM   #2546
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Originally posted by Trips
It should be equal in both directions, and no smaller than a 4 foot diameter circle, with five maybe even better.
Just a curious thought, but I was always under the assumption that one would want as small a turning radius as possible. What is the motivation behind having a turning radius of any size other than the smallest?
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Old 03-10-2003, 11:40 AM   #2547
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Cracker78-A very small turning radius si fine if youve got the dexterity to drive a car that is that has that much steering throw. IN other words-car can be extremely twitchy with that much steering. I run mcu less steering throw than our local fast guys because I like to steer my cars using most all of the throw in my steering wheel-with a little extra for when I might need it..
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Old 03-10-2003, 01:01 PM   #2548
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Scrad- I race at Road Rage in green Bay...i tried Oshkosh once last year and never made it back there yet. Road Rage is having a good turn out on 12 scales every week more and more....i have a CRC Bloody Knife that im selling to get the Switchblade...i just like the T-bar cars better for some reason...dunno why though...the CRC is fast and im usually top few in the A main but want a Switchblade
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Old 03-10-2003, 06:03 PM   #2549
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Red face 12L3 four pack chassis conversion

Hey guys i got a 12L3 which i forgotten all about i built it 2-3 years ago and it sat there eversince. Im planning to race it and i found out that the rules have changed they told me they run a 4-pack configuration now is this true?

Apart from that i heard Yokomo or AE or some brand released a conversion kit for the L3 can anyone possibly help me here some pics website links may help and a estimate of the price for the conversion.

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Old 03-10-2003, 06:06 PM   #2550
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What does your car look like? I was there for the Round up. I was pitted over by the air compressor by Jason Staniak and I think it Phil? Not sure if that is his name or not. I think it is. I raced the neon yellow, black and white 12th scale. I was in the B main. Not one of my finer racing weekends. I tried something different on my car, but it didn't work. But what can you do. I want to go back to RR, but I'm not working now so money is tight. It's hard to race twice a week, that's why I've been going to Oshkosh. The switchblade is hard to get parts for around here and even online. Try asking Jason Toebe if he would stock some stuff or get you a car at the track. PM me back if you want to. Later.

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