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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-15-2007, 02:00 PM   #25441
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I'm not sure that's worth it for me. It's much less hassle to buy another AMB locally and not have to wait for shipping. If it were priced right I'm sure they would be a lot more popular. I could see paying $60 for one but not much more given a used AMB can be picked up for $70 to $80. I don't know...I'm still considering them though once I get my AMB so I can have clones in my other cars.
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:02 PM   #25442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93
Muchmore makes some much more tiny ones that are LiPo.
Got a link?
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:08 PM   #25443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I'm not sure that's worth it for me. It's much less hassle to buy another AMB locally and not have to wait for shipping. If it were priced right I'm sure they would be a lot more popular. I could see paying $60 for one but not much more given a used AMB can be picked up for $70 to $80. I don't know...I'm still considering them though once I get my AMB so I can have clones in my other cars.
A couple of the benefits of the clones are:
-User replaceable wires. So you can cut them to length and replace them when they get thrashed without having to do major surgery like with the AMB.
-Repeated numbers. All of your cars/transponders have the same number so you don't have to remember which transponder is in which car.

I haven't had a chance to get mine cloned but I plan to when I get a chance.

-James
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:17 PM   #25444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
A couple of the benefits of the clones are:
-User replaceable wires. So you can cut them to length and replace them when they get thrashed without having to do major surgery like with the AMB.
-Repeated numbers. All of your cars/transponders have the same number so you don't have to remember which transponder is in which car.

I haven't had a chance to get mine cloned but I plan to when I get a chance.

-James
Those two things are big improvements over the AMB. The fact that they work better too is a bonus!
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:41 PM   #25445
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I'll be relocating to Ct in a month and was wondering if anyone can point me to a nice track there? I've found one place that is close to where I'm moving but I'm not sure if the 1/12 is nearly as big as TC and I'd much prefer to run 1/12th.

Thanks.
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:48 PM   #25446
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Where in CT? There is RC Madness in Enfield, Speedzone in Rocky Hill just down the street from Hartford, and RC Excitement is not too horribly far in Fitchburg, MA.
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:49 PM   #25447
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Meriden, real close to Wallingford. I've already looked at SpeedzoneRC but i can't get a feel for how big 1/12 is there. I've called and was told that's it's growing but I was just wondering if there's another location that has a good 1/12 turnout.
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:45 PM   #25448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I'm not sure that's worth it for me. It's much less hassle to buy another AMB locally and not have to wait for shipping. If it were priced right I'm sure they would be a lot more popular. I could see paying $60 for one but not much more given a used AMB can be picked up for $70 to $80. I don't know...I'm still considering them though once I get my AMB so I can have clones in my other cars.
Can I just get this right? You are OK to pay about $40 for a receiver pack, but not a lesser amount of money to get a better product that will remove a lot of weight from your car (receiver pack), is 100% reliable, and easier to use.

Sometimes I don't think people read what they type!!
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:10 AM   #25449
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I can't help but believe the iPT's are a disaster waiting to occur, hence the reason I brought the issue up with ROAR and that it is specifically dealt with in the 2007 rule book. Quick show of hands...how many people knew there is a ROAR rule that addresses with cloned transponders? Refer to p. 18 rule 5.6.2 under "Scoring". So much for ROAR being non-responsive to member input... As of Nov 1 last year they were unaware of cloned PT's and they dealt with the issue a week or two later at their ex-com meeting and it showed up in the '07 rules. Pretty fast action I'd say.

ROAR only went so far as to identify that the actual AMB unit has priority over clones if multiples of the same number show up at an event. I'd suggested going further and saying that whoever's name ISN'T on the iPT has priority over whoever's name IS on it to protect someone who bought a second-hand clone against the person who violated their agreement with MRT by selling one (or more). The above doesn't address the situation, however, where the person sells their clones and holds onto their original AMB unit though. That becomes less of a possibility, but still a possibility.

The whole idea of more than one transponder existing on a single number corrupts the system. Yes, the buyer agreement bars people from ever selling their iPT's, but is that REALLY going to prevent anyone from selling them when they get out of racing or go through a cyclical downsizing? No. AFAIK, the selling of the original AMB unit isn't even addressed in the agreement.

What I suggest isn't merely speculation...it already had happened by last fall at a club race in the midwest. It is less likely to happen for a while yet here in the hinterlands of Montana, but you wait and see... In a large hotbed of activity, say Florida, So Cal, Cleveland it will start to happen more and more often. Or at large events (ala IIC, Indoor Champs, Snowbirds, etc).

I'm sure I'll be dismissed as yet another chicken little, but can no one else see something beyond some little potential for problems? Yeah, it's not global warming, and with ROAR's swift action it really won't be a problem for race directors, but the luckless fellow who unawares bought a used iPT only to show up at a race and find other unit(s) on the same number... He's SOL.

Also, the "stronger signal". The folks at MRT had started to suggest improved "range" in their thread but backpedaled on that claim pretty quickly when the question came up as to the possibility of a second place iPT-equipped car being scored ahead of a first place AMB-equipped car.
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:16 AM   #25450
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:23 AM   #25451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
Can I just get this right? You are OK to pay about $40 for a receiver pack, but not a lesser amount of money to get a better product that will remove a lot of weight from your car (receiver pack), is 100% reliable, and easier to use.

Sometimes I don't think people read what they type!!
The issues are completely seperate. The weight difference between the 2 transponders is minimal at best (a few grams at the most) while the decision to use a reciever battery pack or not has to do with radio and servo performance. Running the iPT vs the AMB is not going to change the reason why I need to run either a reciever capacitor or a reciever pack. And FYI the reciever packs I've been looking at are only about $20...

Not to mention the AMB transponders are hugely overpriced as it is. But they can get away with it because they hold a virtual monopoly on the industry. When the AMB PTs first came out they sold for $50 to $60...then once they realized that people would pay more for them they nearly doubled the price.

And it's not really lighter anyway...the AMB at 8grams includes the wire lead while the i-PT at 6grams does not. You'll easily get another 2 grams just in the wire alone.

Last edited by InspGadgt; 05-16-2007 at 04:58 AM.
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:29 AM   #25452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
I'm sure I'll be dismissed as yet another chicken little, but can no one else see something beyond some little potential for problems? Yeah, it's not global warming, and with ROAR's swift action it really won't be a problem for race directors, but the luckless fellow who unawares bought a used iPT only to show up at a race and find other unit(s) on the same number... He's SOL.
Hell...even global warming isn't the issue it's cracked up to be...
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:03 AM   #25453
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I've been using the i-PT for some time now, as are quite a few people here. None of the arguments against them has occured so far. Of course the potential is there, but as a practical matter it just hasn't happened. When it does, the ROAR rule now in place offers a solution. If you buy a used i-PT, you are making a mistake. If you were uninformed at the time its not the end of the world, you just own a piece of equipment that you should not use.
I have said that the signal is stronger because it is my observation that i-PTs work when AMB transponders are having troubles, but I have never noticed them registering on the loop earlier.

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Old 05-16-2007, 02:23 PM   #25454
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Scottrik - we had this discussion extensively in the UK when the MRT i-PT came out. As far as I am aware, of the thousands of people racing in our National series, and at Clubs, there has never been a case of duplicate numbers.

I think that our hobby is a very honest and safe place. Despite the $000's of kit left mostly unattended in a hall, theft or damage is extermely rare. MRT make their policy very, very clear, and I think most people adhere to it as they they are honest. They don't want to screw anyone up.

ROAR have acted, but I'd be surprised if your prophecy of doom happened.
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Old 05-16-2007, 03:35 PM   #25455
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I don't think it would be a case where a dozen people would show up for an event with matching numbers (at least not until MRT sell a LOT more of their iPT), and even then for it to be a problem (I THINK) they'd have to be in the same heat (though I should check with Doug Haye on that).

But even two people showing up for a big "away" event without an alternate PT can be a major hassle...especially if the venue doesn't have any to sell. I could care less about people buying clones, I just know of a person who HAS sold the clone(s) on. It is definitely a case of buyer beware, but I really hate to think of the poor newbie who buys one and then gets told he can't use it at his first big race.

Ah well...just like no one here in the sticks want lipos in racing (yet) no one seems particularly interested in cloned PT's. So no probs here.

Scottrik
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