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  • I use the black tape on heavy duty stuff, grey tape on pretty much anything, silicone tape on temperary stuff. Shoe goo when it needs to be rock solid, like servos, switches, and caps.
  • I use liquid nail!
  • mark, it could be a few things but you could try slightly softer front springs, less additive on the front tyres (amount and time left on the tyre) as well as softening up the rear pod with regards to what oil you are putting on between the plates. Try each at a time to see what happens rather an all at once which will mean you don't know which thing you did helped out or not, if that makes sense!
  • Quote: they should be ready this week.i should have some ready by weeks end.
    DB12R / what's the RRP in $?
  • Mark I have always run Damper tube cars but I have found when the side damping is too soft then you pull the Lowrider 3 wheel through the turns. Try to go to a thicker lube and see what happens. As you see above this is counter to what others have said so take the advice with a bit of disclaimer.
  • Quote: Need a little help with a setup issue. THe car (L4) picks a frnt whel up on fast bends and fast corner entry. This tends to make the car twitch and be unsettled. Anyone got any ideas why this happens. I've got rid of tweak, m thoughts are the front tyres are too soft and they bite to hard

    Mark If your only picking up the front tire then you need to put some lube on the discs to help keep the car planted if the car is picking up the front tire and then rolling over like a snap hook then you running to soft a front tire


    post up if you need more info
  • Quote: Mark I have always run Damper tube cars but I have found when the side damping is too soft then you pull the Lowrider 3 wheel through the turns. Try to go to a thicker lube and see what happens. As you see above this is counter to what others have said so take the advice with a bit of disclaimer.
    yes iv found this out too.
  • Quote: Mark I have always run Damper tube cars but I have found when the side damping is too soft then you pull the Lowrider 3 wheel through the turns. Try to go to a thicker lube and see what happens. As you see above this is counter to what others have said so take the advice with a bit of disclaimer.
    ding ding ding ding.
  • lube
    ok then, i'll start off with a thick lube and work my way through thinner and see what the effect is.
  • Well just a little over a week until my next race so I still don't know if the changes I made to free up the rear suspension are going to give me the traction I'm looking for. But I've been watching this thread for some time now and remembered seeing how some of you heat shrink your wire bundles and how cool it looked. So I totally rewired my car and even found a better way to run the motor wires Tomorrow will be time to put the car on the setup board to check the front end settings and hopefully mount and paint the new body. I've gotten excited about RC again and can't wait for the next race. I find myself wishing we raced 1/12th every weekend. I guess it's time to get the gas car running now too so I can race every weekend.
  • ran my speedevil last night at the local club, really went well. I don't really need to change anything from the setup point of view because it really does run good out of the box. Hoever, I have included a couple of pics for you to look at from their website to see what people would change from the frontend settings point of view. For example, if I move the links further out, what effect do you think that would give? I ran silver and gold tyres (that you have to at the club) and a zytek b'shell. Let me know what you think guys, cheers, Chris.

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  • Just guessing, but moving both "out" seems like it should increase camber change as the suspension compresses, moving one or the other "out" relative to the other should alter initial caster and caster change over suspension travel.

    I'm very interested to hear the real story as well.

    Scottrik
  • right off the bat i would raise the front of the shock.it is way too inclined.you are losing alot of on power steering with it that low in the front
  • the links look alright.if you lengthen them it will lose cambergain and make the front roll more.with them shorter the front will roll initially pretty easy and then bind eliminating more roll.the standard upper arm length from AE has been very usable with the given castor adjustment.more castor adds more cambergain as you turn the wheel.you want to have the right balance throughout the corner.not to sound like a shmuck but it looks like it is not really going to benefit in performance.more just an option you wont find very usable.try it though,see what you think
  • Got kind of a Spiderman theme going on

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