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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-01-2007, 08:07 PM   #25306
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hey Lou what do you think of the speedevil
i know you like t plate cars this may be good for you
i know you'll be able to drive it really good.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:54 PM   #25307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by look
Jason any word on more of your 1/12 kits?
thx
Lou
they should be ready this week.i should have some ready by weeks end.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:54 PM   #25308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
hey Lou what do you think of the speedevil
i know you like t plate cars this may be good for you
i know you'll be able to drive it really good.
he will be fast with this one also
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:00 PM   #25309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
they should be ready this week.i should have some ready by weeks end.
what dose your car look like just want to see.
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:03 PM   #25310
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this is a pic of the pre production car.the production car is slightly different but not much.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-link-12-car.jpg  
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:48 PM   #25311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
this is a pic of the pre production car.the production car is slightly different but not much.

Thanks for leaving lots of room for my GTB........
I look foward to running Jason..
-Shookie <><
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:51 AM   #25312
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so theres no t plate and no links
cant see very good
how dose that rearend work.
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:05 AM   #25313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Thanks for leaving lots of room for my GTB........
I look foward to running Jason..
-Shookie <><

thanks buddy
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:10 AM   #25314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
so theres no t plate and no links
cant see very good
how dose that rearend work.
there are 3 inline pivot balls,1 center,and 2 on each side of the central pivot that connect to the flex plates.this allows for free movement just like a link car when compressed.when you twist the rear end,it flexes the fiberglass plates,1 up and 1 down and acts like a T bar would be.being that the 2 plates kind of resist eachother,it makes the plates extremely hard to break upon side impact.this really has been the most durable and tweak free rear end i have ever run.the front of the flex plates stay stationary and are sandwiched between 2 standoffs.i will take some better pictures of the rear end today and post some pics so it is easier to understand
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:55 AM   #25315
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That is a great design Jason!

One feature about the FF07 I like is the tweak screw setting is the same each time the t-plate is replaced. As everyone knows, the 'old style' t-plate requires the removal of the tweak screws and they never go kcab on the same way. I use the 'old style' t-plate but only place the pivots on it. The FF07 Independent Tweak System maintains your setting. Naturally, I check tweak each time with the tweak station but each time it has been spot on.

The use of 'old style' was for you Jason.... Your new ride is trick.

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Old 05-02-2007, 11:08 AM   #25316
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.....

Last edited by David Galdo; 05-02-2007 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:45 PM   #25317
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RC12L4 motor/esc/battery advice

I've built an RC12L4, and am looking for electronics.

I'm thinking I'll go with the following and would love advice from other 1/12th drivers, this is my first on-road and first electric.

1 - Batteries: 2 lipo batteries in parallel, two 3S1P 1100mAh, 11.1V, 10.0C. Will they work as expected in parallel? Will 2200mAh be enough for a decent run time?

2 - Motor/ESC: Mamba Max ESC and brushless. I realize it's overkill for 1/12 but I can tone it down with the programmable ESC, and I want to be able to use them in a future 1/10 or 1/8 project.

3 - Servo: Futaba S9650

4 - RX: Spectrum DX2 3-chan.

Does this make sense? Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks guys. =)
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:50 PM   #25318
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Hi JD,

That system should work fine, but the batteries are a little overkill. Are you going to try to race, or do you just want to go really fast accross a parking lot?

Basically, just a regular 4200 pack & a Novak brushless ESC with the 3.5 motor is already too fast for even the pro level racer....I can't imagine 11.1 volts is going to be "drivable".
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:04 PM   #25319
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I'm not racing or trying to break the speed of sound, I'm just playing around. =) So I suppose 11.1 may be too much. I had a chat with the support guys at Castle and they even suggested a Mamba 25 system at 7.4v. Only problem is mounting it.

Is anyone making after-market 1/18th scale motor mounts for the RC12L's? Or am I stuck with my friend Mr. Dremel?

Tnx

Quote:
Originally Posted by 12thScaleCrazy
Hi JD,

That system should work fine, but the batteries are a little overkill. Are you going to try to race, or do you just want to go really fast accross a parking lot?
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:06 PM   #25320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdcarbon
I'm not racing or trying to break the speed of sound, I'm just playing around. =) So I suppose 11.1 may be too much. I had a chat with the support guys at Castle and they even suggested a Mamba 25 system at 7.4v. Only problem is mounting it.

Is anyone making after-market 1/18th scale motor mounts for the RC12L's? Or am I stuck with my friend Mr. Dremel?

Tnx
Team Teakin did it and it worked.
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